Wanderlust UK

140 Pages·2017·43.142 MB·English

Upfront
Frozen assets
An expedition cruise can
THE TEAM
often be the only way to
visit parts of the world
unreachable otherwise
Whathave
theybeenup
tothismonth?
PHOEBESMITH
♦EDITOR♦
Tryingoutsocksgalore,
soshecanhitthetrail
withherfeetblister-free
SEEPAGE82
Welcome 5 THINGS
WE LEARNED
THISISSUE:
TOM HAWKER
Lookingthroughthemediathesedays,itis 1T he contents of an ‘elephant sandwich’ ♦ PRODUCTION EDITOR ♦
easytothinkthattheworldisadepressing in Nepal includes molasses, rice, Being inspired by Che
Guevara to start his own
place.Takerhinos,forinstance.Yes,the
chickpeas and salt, wrapped in hay – revolution... in his travels
horrificpoachingoftheseanimalsisseriously SEE PAGE 75
not elephants themselves! p24
worryingbutNepalisbuckingthetrend,
andhasevenincreaseditsnumbers,aseditor 2You can dive among millions of dollars
PhoebeSmithdiscoveredthismonth(p24). of US military hardware in Vanuatu –
Meanwhile,Thailandsometimessuffersfromnegativepublicity dumped post-Second World War; p42
on‘green’issues,yethasmanyexamplesoftourismthatbenefits
3In Granada, during the time of the
localcommunities,theenvironmentandwildlife.So,weare
offeringoneluckyreaderthechancetovisitandreportback Nasrid dynasty, locals would make GARETH CLARK
ontheseissuesforusinanewwritingcompetition(p68). an erection cream using mustard; p58 ♦ SUB-EDITOR/WRITER ♦
Elsewhereinthisissue,weexploreSouthAmericabytrain 4T o guard against black magic, Borneo’s Bburusshhcirnagft u spk iollsn bhyis l ewailrdn ing
(p104),gooffthebeatentrackbyexpeditionship(p42)and
Iban community ask outsiders to sip from the great Ray Mears
visitremoteIbancommunitiesinMalaysianBorneo(p86). SEE PAGE 18
drinks before passing them around; p86
Andasyouknow,weloveseekingoutthebestintravel,so
pleasehelpusbyfillingoutourannualTravelAwardssurvey(p128). 5Spot a raven at Portugal’s Cape
of St Vincent and it could be a
Happytravels,
descendant of the birds that were said
toguardtheholyfigure’srelics;p133
RHODRI ANDREWS
© Phoebe Smith This page Alamy LEdynit oHr-uIng-hCehsief/Co-founder ♦SowStfE iAa ntEShndS edPIyS iA wnTCAGgaoN EproTl ednE1D 3 oatIh3Tft OeSPR toe ♦Vrdtigunegc ealn’st
mage Elephant Chanchun Kali in Chitwan National Park, Nepal TW *SRPAEYCINAFL DOIFVFEERER* ILSUSSUTEFSOORF£5* detpSaf5eiol6esr
Cover i *Termsandconditionsapply
| 1
Wanderlust October 2017
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Footnotes maps Digital Mapping (Tel: [phone]) In the previous issue [September 2017; issue 179], the wrong image
Office camera Nikon D80 was published alongside an interview with HRH Princess Tatiana
Video camera Sony DCR-SR72 of Greece (pictured). We apologise for this error.
Office binoculars Swarovski EL 8x32s
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OoKYofnffi utohc wGeiao FBl C CpeaOafom’rsrtp ne ae irg n Please recycle this magazine (cid:80)(cid:70)(cid:68)(cid:73)(cid:82)(cid:51)(cid:90)(cid:85)(cid:81)(cid:55)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:40)(cid:68)(cid:90)(cid:75)(cid:80)(cid:87)(cid:74)(cid:85)(cid:41)(cid:76)(cid:90)(cid:86)(cid:82)(cid:72)(cid:38)(cid:17)(cid:86)(cid:79)(cid:71)(cid:83)(cid:83)(cid:79)(cid:88)(cid:72)(cid:38)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:86)(cid:71)(cid:73)(cid:82)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:72)(cid:87)(cid:70)(cid:71)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:85)(cid:85)(cid:17)(cid:72)(cid:88)(cid:76)(cid:82)(cid:70)(cid:87)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:86)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:88)(cid:73)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:87)(cid:76)(cid:17)(cid:85)(cid:86)(cid:72)(cid:69)(cid:88)(cid:70)(cid:76)(cid:86)(cid:71)(cid:79)(cid:78)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:92)(cid:86)(cid:81)(cid:71) Wtaasphabotaetoosinsiumutdfirtavoeowcesrptlthcuieoteosrrntutvaheasrteaotrimeratridognhsuegaatr.osnoRwdbifenre8rsfieeto5pelnr%ioramsunbfsshraleoieanbdmvidlneewifrnaoteernsraaampddvliewearserutlalsiesaoyitdlnsnalyiitionnnrouydautrebhtroapletenreuwantnsrvouedaeraevtlllhdenaaol.tdwliTsysvehaeoaarwnrtdttt’whssuhoiarewt’enhvhhsdeae.yWwsatwcoreetoeuonrsraetfecrrdevoeivveamaeermlprtwgyoaiuatnnbhayiymrirsn.ianWuugngmptwheyfereeoonudnot. HRH Prince Nikolaos; Phoebe Smith
2 |
Wanderlust October 2017
BEYOND THE MAP
NO SCRIPT. NO ACTORS.
NO SPECIAL EFFECTS.
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THIS IS REAL. LIFE
ON THE
EDGE
Film:
CHOICES
StephDavischoseclimbing.Thelawstudentleftschool
andfollowedherpassionforthesport,earninganumber
ofclimbingachievementsfromYosemitetoPatagonia.She
thensettledinMoab,Utah,anddiscoveredhersecond
passion:BASEjumping.Althoughshe‘ssuffered
manylosses,includingthedeathofher
husbandMarioRichardsinawingsuit
accident,she‘sneverregret-
tedhavingchosenher
unconventional
FIND MORE FILMS AT wayof
WWW.EOFT.EU life.
EUROPEAN OUTDOOR
FILM TOUR
7Outdoor&AdventureFilms
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ICE, ICE,
BABY!
Film:
INTO TWIN GALAXIES
BenStookesberry,SarahMcNair-Landry,andErik
Boomerareheadingnorth.TheywanttocrossGreenland‘s
giganticicesheetswithsnowkites,followedbyakayaking
firstdescentinameltwaterstreamdowntheglacier.
ButGreenlandistoughterrain.Sarahdeals
withaserioussnowkiting-crashonthe
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CONTENTS
Issue 180
October 2017
360˚–NEEDTOKNOW TRAVEL MASTERCLASS
6 72
Viewfi nder Afghanistan’s hidden wonders, The masterclass Our ultimate guide
12Norway’s night sky, and tigers in Bhutan to travelling solo – how to gain confi dence
Need to know this month... a7nd5 see the world on your own terms!
14How to limit plastic use on your travels Instant expert: Che Guevara
Go now Myths, dragons and medieval Fifty years after the revolutionary’s death,
16mystery in the Polish city of Krakow 7we 8look at Che’s travels across Latin America
Eat this... Go nuts for Oregon’s tasty Take better travel photos
18 prize crop: the humble hazelnut Night snapper Lukasz Palka on how your
5 minutes with... Ray Mears The t8wili0ght city pics needn’t be a shot in the dark
20ou tdoorsman hits the road for his new tour Travel clinic Dr Jane on how to stay
Know your… Trans-Australian 82healthy while on board an expedition ship
22Railway The iconic railroad turns 100 Traveller’s guide to… socks
T ake a short break Fill your Many don’t take socks seriously, but these
weekends with brag-worthy experiences pairs could keep your feet blissfully blister-free
WIN!
▲2 C4over story 68
Nepal
Nepal isn’t just about big mountains,
it’s also home to one of the world’s great AtriptoJordanfortwo,p40
conservation successes: the incredible
one-horned rhino of Chitwan National Park Awritingcommissionto
Thailand,p68
4▲ S2pecial feature
 Expedition Cruises Aphotocommission
From winding remote South Pacifi c toCostaRicaor
islands to gliding past icebergs in the Arctic, £3,000,p84
sometimes the best wild places can only be
unlocked aboard an expedition cruise
Doyoulovetravelling
sustainably? Tell us about
your eco travels and you
42 could be sent on a writing
“Grab your Antarctic passport stamp and assignment to Thailand,
see the 800 gentoo penguins that waddle courtesy of the Tourism
Goudier Island, as well as kayak, ski, trek Authority of Thailand
and even take a chilling ‘polar plunge’.”
TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE
104
YEAR COMPETITION, p84
Win a dream photo
commission to Costa Rica South
or £3,000 cash with the America,
Wanderlust Travel Photo of p104
the Year 2017 competition!
“The silhouettes of the birds disappeared into
the distance as the train nosed its way onto the
vast emptiness of the altiplano. Our journey was
just starting but had already been worth the
ticket price.” Ben Lerwill
4 |
Wanderlust October2017
REVOLUTIONARY ROAD...
Che Guevara, p75
FEATURES FROMTHEROAD POCKET GUIDES
58 98 129
Andalucía Forget the packed beaches YourstoryReaderTom First 24 hours:
of southern Spain and venture inland Dunicanmakesanunlikelyfriendon Accra, Ghana
instead, exploring a region rich in medieval hisMoroccanroadtripandreaderVictoria Discover the historic coast and atmospheric
8arch6itecture, wild vistas and Islamic history C1h0ard0onswapshorsesforcarsinMongolia streets of Ghana’s laidback capital, just as the
Sarawak, Borneo Heads may no Readers’picturesYoursuper ‘1B3lack1 Star’ celebrates 60 years of independence
longer roll for Sarawak’s once fearsome snaps,includingsoakingupthepoppy Short break: Bilbao, Spain
Iban headhunters, but short stays in their remote fieldsofArmenia,gettingclosetodeerinJapan, The Guggenheim museum kickstarted
longhouse communities ensure an authentic castle-spottinginIran,standingontheTropicof the old port city’s transformation when it opened
1experi4ence still awaits intrepid travellers C1a0pric2ornandadmiringMadeira’sruggedcliffs 2103 ye3ars ago – we explore its brave new world
South America trains From LettersInourmailbag:hittingthe Travel icon: Cape of St Vincent,
Andean peaks and high plains to wild roadinNewfoundland;beingutterly Portugal Once considered the edge
Brazilian rainforest and coastal lowlands, South mesmerisedbyUganda’smarvels;motoring of the planet, this windy headland’s blend of
Phoebe Smith Athme ebreicsat tirsanin’t rsohuotret so tfo e gpeict lyaonud cscloaspee tso – th wee a pctiicokn atrriposunfodrAalul;satrnadliam;uecnhsu,mrinugchetmhiocrael.e..quine lseegaet nddraawry fhoirs tthoorys ea nlodo bkiirndgli ffeo ris a a unn eiqdugee e-osfc-tahpee-
86
“I tried to reconcile the shrunken
old man beside me with the once
feared warrior who, even today, is
famous throughout the region as
the last of the headhunters.”
Mark Eveleigh
58
“I found myself among cascades
of mauve wisteria, miniscule
courtyards full of lemon trees and
little churches that were once
Krakow, p14
mosques.” Martin Symington

Andalucía, p58

Nepal, p24
129
Sarawak, p86
“Ghanaian beats blast from bars and taxis as the
smell of grilled fi sh and bubbling rice combine to
overwhelm the senses.” Daniel Neilson
TALKING HEADS
Ray Mears, p18
Australia, p20
“Often, I don’t take photos on
my travels. I see amazing things
but they’re in my head,
they go into your soul and
become a part of you.”
| 5
Wanderlust October 2017
360
V i e w f i n d e r
TAKING FLIGHT
Mazar-i-Sharif, Afghanistan
Photographer: Steve McCurry
Afghanistan remains largely off limits for
travellers. It’s a country wrought by conflict:
the Soviet invasion (1979), the Afghan Civil
War (1989-1992) and, more recently, the
Taliban. This makes pictures such as this,
taken by Steve McCurry in 1991, all the more
important; a flock of doves in front of the
15th century azure-domed Blue Mosque in
Mazar-i-Sharif, show us what is difficult to
see in the flesh. For Steve, the country is his
life’s work, with his most spellbinding snaps
collated in new book Afghanistan. Captured
over nearly 40 years, his images profile a
battered but ultimately beautiful nation. It
seems splendour is found in even the
darkest of corners.
Afghanistan (TASCHEN, £60) by Steve
McCurry is out now. www.taschen.com
360˚ Viewfinder