Table Of ContentPALGRAVE ADVANCES IN LUXURY
VINTAGE LUXURY
FASHION
Exploring the Rise
of the Secondhand
Clothing Trade
Edited by
Daniella Ryding,
Claudia E. Henninger,
& Marta Blazquez Cano
Series editors:
Paurav Shukla & Jaywant Singh
Palgrave Advances in Luxury
Series Editors
Paurav Shukla
Department of Economics
Glasgow Caledonian University
London, UK
Jaywant Singh
Kingston Business School
Kingston University
Kingston Upon Thames, UK
The field of luxury studies increasingly encompasses a variety of
perspectives not just limited to marketing and brand management. In
recent times, a host of novel and topical issues on luxury such as sus-
tainability, counterfeiting, emulation and consumption trends have
gained prominence which draw on the fields of entrepreneurship,
sociology, psychology and operations.
Examining international trends from China, Asia, Europe, North
America and the MENA region, Palgrave Advances in Luxury is the first
series dedicated to this complex issue. Including multiple perspectives
whilst being very much grounded in business, its aim is to offer an inte-
grated picture of the management environment in which luxury oper-
ates. It explores the newer debates relating to luxury consumption such
as the signals used in expressing luxury, the socially divisive nature of
luxury and the socio-economic segmentation that it brings. Filling a
significant gap in our knowledge of this field, the series will help read-
ers comprehend the significant management challenges unique to this
construct.
More information about this series at
http://www.palgrave.com/gp/series/15396
Daniella Ryding · Claudia E. Henninger
Marta Blazquez Cano
Editors
Vintage Luxury
Fashion
Exploring the Rise of the
Secondhand Clothing Trade
Editors
Daniella Ryding Marta Blazquez Cano
School of Materials School of Materials
University of Manchester University of Manchester
Manchester, UK Manchester, UK
Claudia E. Henninger
School of Materials
University of Manchester
Manchester, UK
Palgrave Advances in Luxury
ISBN 978-3-319-71984-9 ISBN 978-3-319-71985-6 (eBook)
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-71985-6
Library of Congress Control Number: 2017963535
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Contents
1 Introduction to Vintage Luxury Fashion—Exploring
the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade 1
Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger
and Marta Blazquez Cano
2 Restructuring Secondhand Fashion from
the Consumption Perspective 11
Linda Lisa Maria Turunen, Hanna Leipämaa-Leskinen
and Jenniina Sihvonen
3 Access-Based Consumption: A New Business Model
for Luxury and Secondhand Fashion Business? 29
Amira Battle, Daniella Ryding and Claudia E. Henninger
4 Understanding the Culture of Consuming Pre-owned
Luxury 45
Carly Fox
v
vi Contents
5 Pre-loved? Analysing the Dubai Luxe Resale Market 63
Liz Barnes and Gaynor Lea-Greenwood
6 Narrative and Emotional Accounts of Secondhand
Luxury Purchases Along the Customer Journey 79
Marie-Cécile Cervellon and Edwige Vigreux
7 Perceived Brand Image of Luxury Fashion and Vintage
Fashion—An Insight into Chinese Millennials’ Attitudes
and Motivations 97
Claudia E. Henninger, Zejian Tong and Delia Vazquez
8 Sources of Value for Luxury Secondhand and Vintage
Fashion Customers in Poland—From the Perspective
of Its Demographic Characteristics 111
Edyta Rudawska, Magdalena Grębosz-Krawczyk
and Daniella Ryding
9 Secondhand Index and the Spirit of Green Vintage
Fashion 133
Cecilia Fredriksson and Devrim Umut Aslan
10 Dedicated Follower of Fashion 153
Neil Robinson and Crispin Dale
11 Do Fashion Blogs Influence Vintage Fashion
Consumption? An Analysis from the Perspective of the
Chinese Market 167
Marta Blazquez Cano, Stephen Doyle and Yiyuan Zhang
Contents vii
12 Vintage Fashion: A Cross-Cultural Perspective 185
Lindsey Carey, Marie-Cécile Cervellon, Julie McColl,
Aileen Stewart and Yuet Chak Yuki Yuen
13 Commercialisation and the Authenticity of Vintage
Fashion 205
Anthony Kent, Suzanne Winfield and Charlotte Shi
Index 219
Editors and Contributors
About the Editors
Daniella Ryding is a Senior Lecturer in Strategic Marketing Management
and the Academic Lead for the New Academics Programme in the Faculty
of Science and Engineering. She is the Exams Officer for the largest M.Sc.
programmes in the School of Materials, she sits on a number of School and
Faculty Committees for Teaching and Learning, and thereby is proactively
involved with strategic decisions to improve the overall student experience.
Daniella has a keen commitment and interest in educational research and is
currently supervising doctoral work within this remit. In addition, she is an
active researcher within her subject specialism with over 40 published articles,
and several textbook contributions, and she sits on the editorial board for a
number of academic business journals. Daniella is a member of the scientific
committee and abstract coordinator for CIRCLE International (Centre for
international Research on Consumers in their Locations and Environments),
which hosts an annual conference with over 88 university members. The
author’s main discipline-specific research centres on complex cognition, further
exploring the psychological and behavioural mechanisms which impact on con-
sumer decision-making within product packaging and the branding and com-
munication business remits. She works with the School of Biological Sciences,
Division of Cognitive Psychology and Neuroscience and co-supervises a
ix
x Editors and Contributors
number of Ph.D. students on the topic of memory. She is also actively involved
with a number of research projects which involve studies surrounding sustain-
ability within the circular economy.
Claudia E. Henninger is a Lecturer in Fashion Marketing Management
at Manchester University, UK, where she teaches sustainability and strategic
management. Claudia has presented her research at national and international
conferences and published in leading journals. Claudia is the Deputy Chair of
the Academy of Marketing SIG Sustainability. Her edited book Sustainability
in Fashion—A Cradle to Upcycle Approach has been published in 2017 with
Springer.
Marta Blazquez Cano is a Lecturer in Fashion Marketing at the School of
Materials, University of Manchester. Marta holds a BA in advertising and PR
and has developed a career in the advertising and marketing industry for more
than 10 years. She was awarded European Ph.D. in Marketing with Cum
laude mention. Marta’s research interest includes omnichannel retail, experi-
ential retail, channel integration, in-store technology, social media marketing,
mobile marketing and consumer behaviour. She has published in leading jour-
nals, contributed to edited books and presented her work at various national
and international conferences. Marta has been visiting researcher at the Oxford
Institute of Research Management (OXIRM), University of Oxford, and has
been invited lecturer on several occasions in China and Spain. She supervises
a number of Ph.D. and M.Sc. students in the areas of fashion marketing and
retailing.
Contributors
Devrim Umut Aslan is a doctoral researcher in the Department of
Service Management and Service Studies at Lund University, Sweden.
His dissertation research focuses on consumers’ practices in marginal-
ised urban geographies. Besides his doctorate position, he also worked
as a retail analyst for City of Helsingborg in Sweden. Devrim is addi-
tionally interested in topics such as digitalisation of retail, sustainable
consumption and migrant entrepreneurship. He is specialised in video
ethnography as a research method.
