UTILIZING SOCIAL MEDIA TO INFORM INCLUSIVE APPAREL DESIGN FOR BABY BOOMER ...

247 Pages·2016·4.11 MB·English

UTILIZING SOCIAL MEDIA TO INFORM INCLUSIVE
APPAREL DESIGN FOR BABY BOOMER WOMEN
_______________________________________
A Dissertation
presented to
the Faculty of the Graduate School
at the University of Missouri-Columbia
_______________________________________________________
In Partial Fulfillment
of the Requirements for the Degree
Doctor of Philosophy
_____________________________________________________
by
SANDRA STARKEY
Dr. Jean Parsons, Major Professor
December 2016
© Copyright by Sandra Starkey 2016
All Rights Reserved
The undersigned, appointed by the dean of the Graduate School, have examined the
dissertation entitled
UTILIZING SOCIAL MEDIA TO INFORM INCLUSIVE
APPAREL DESIGN FOR BABY BOOMER WOMEN
presented by Sandra Starkey,
a candidate for the degree of doctor of philosophy,
and hereby certify that, in their opinion, it is worthy of acceptance.

____________________________________________________
Professor Jean Parsons, Committee Chair

____________________________________________________
Professor Jana Hawley

____________________________________________________
Professor Myunghee Sohn

____________________________________________________
Professor Amanda Hinnant
ii

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I would like to express my deep appreciation and gratitude to my advisor,
committee members, family and friends for their never-ending assistance and support
throughout my doctoral program.
I would like to thank my advisor Dr. Jean Parsons who has provided continual
guidance and mentorship and has not only helped me to complete my program but has
better prepared me for a career in our field of apparel design scholarship. Her wisdom
combined with her engaging sense of humor made the journey less daunting and I
enjoyed our time together working on this research.
My committee members, Dr. Hawley, Dr. Sohn and Dr. Hinnant all provided
friendly guidance and valuable suggestions that strengthened my research in numerous
ways and I am thankful for their willingness to help me with my program. I am
particularly grateful for their flexibility and patience during the latter part of the
dissertation writing process.
My family and friends have provided the needed encouragement and continual
support to help me get through the long hours and constant demands of a doctoral
program. I want to thank my parents, Dale and Eleanor Novotny and my sister Sherri
Valentine who always had confidence in my ability. Finally, I would like to thank my
husband Bob Meier and my daughter Isabella for their continual patience and
understanding during the last few years to help me reach my educational goals.
iii

Table of Contents
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ............................................................................................................. ii
LIST OF FIGURES .......................................................................................................................... v
LIST OF TABLES ......................................................................................................................... vii
ABSTRACT ………………………………………………………………………………….….viii
CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................... 1
PROBLEM STATEMENT ................................................................................................................. 1
PURPOSE ....................................................................................................................................... 2
IMPORTANCE OF THE STUDY ........................................................................................................ 3
RESEARCH QUESTIONS ................................................................................................................. 5
SCOPE OF THE STUDY ................................................................................................................... 6
LIMITATIONS ................................................................................................................................ 8
CHAPTER 2 REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE ...................................................................... 9
THE BABY BOOMER GENERATION ............................................................................................... 9
BABY BOOMER WOMEN ............................................................................................................... 9
BABY BOOMER WOMEN WITH DIFFERENT ABILITIES ............................................................... 11
THE IMPORTANCE OF CLOTHING ................................................................................................ 14
CLOTHING, SELF-CONCEPT, AND CONSUMPTION ...................................................................... 15
AGING WOMEN AND CLOTHING PREFERENCES ......................................................................... 20
THE LIFE COURSE PERSPECTIVE AND CONTINUITY THEORY ON AGING ................................... 21
INCLUSIVE DESIGN ..................................................................................................................... 25
INCLUSIVE DESIGN IN THE FIELD OF TEXTILE AND APPAREL DESIGN ...................................... 31
INCLUSIVE DESIGN AND AESTHETICS ........................................................................................ 33
DESIGN SCHOLARSHIP ................................................................................................................ 37
BLOGS IN RESEARCH .................................................................................................................. 39
CHAPTER 3 METHODOLOGY ............................................................................................... 43
METHODS ................................................................................................................................... 44
RESTATEMENT OF RESEARCH QUESTIONS ................................................................................. 44
APPAREL DESIGN USING THE INCLUSIVE DESIGN FRAMEWORK ............................................... 45
EXPLORE PHASE ......................................................................................................................... 47
CREATE PHASE ........................................................................................................................... 54
EVALUATE PHASE ...................................................................................................................... 55
MANAGE PHASE ......................................................................................................................... 58
ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS ........................................................................................................ 59
CHAPTER 4 BLOG DATA FINDINGS AND SYNTHESIS ................................................... 60
DEMOGRAPHIC INFORMATION ................................................................................................... 60
DATA ANALYSIS PROCESS ......................................................................................................... 64
PURPOSE ..................................................................................................................................... 67
SUMMARY OF THE FOUR BLOG THEMES .................................................................................... 74
Personal Style………………………………………………………………………………….74
SELF CONCEPT ........................................................................................................................... 82
HEALTH AND ABILITY ................................................................................................................ 84
APPAREL PREFERENCES AND GARMENT CHARACTERISTICS ..................................................... 86
SUMMARY OF REVIEW CRITERIA ............................................................................................. 108
CHAPTER 5 THE APPAREL DESIGN PROCESS .............................................................. 112
OVERVIEW OF KEY CONSIDERATIONS ..................................................................................... 112
APPAREL DESIGN PROCESS USING THE INCLUSIVE DESIGN FRAMEWORK ............................. 132
iv

CHAPTER 6 GARMENT EVALUATION .............................................................................. 143
REVIEW OF THE SAMPLE .......................................................................................................... 143
DEMOGRAPHICS ....................................................................................................................... 144
PROCEDURES FOR GARMENT VIEWING BY RESEARCH PARTICIPANTS .................................... 145
DATA COLLECTION METHODS AND RESEARCH INSTRUMENTS ............................................... 149
PRESENTATION OF FINDINGS: SEMI-OPEN QUESTIONNAIRE ................................................... 152
SECTION ONE ........................................................................................................................... 156
SECTION TWO ........................................................................................................................... 164
VIDEO AND AUDIO RECORDINGS ............................................................................................. 170
SYNTHESIS OF FINDINGS .......................................................................................................... 172
ADDITIONAL OBSERVATIONS ................................................................................................... 185
CHAPTER 7 CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS ............................................ 186
CONCLUSIONS .......................................................................................................................... 186
EVALUATION OF THE INCLUSIVE DESIGN FRAMEWORK FOR APPAREL DESIGN ..................... 192
THE USE OF BLOGS IN RESEARCH TO INFORM APPAREL DESIGN FOR BABY BOOMER WOMEN
.................................................................................................................................................. 197
RECOMMENDATIONS ................................................................................................................ 197
REFERENCES ........................................................................................................................... 201
APPENDIX 1: INCLUSIVE DESIGN FOR BABY BOOMER WOMEN POSTER……...215
APPENDIX 2: BLOGGER PERSONAE CHART………………………………………..…216
APPENDIX 3: ID EXCLUSION CALCULATOR WITH DATA GENERATED ABOUT
SLEEVELESS TOP #1 .............................................................................................................. 217
APPENDIX 4: FLYER ADVERTISEMENT FOR STUDY PARTICIPANTS……………213
APPENDIX 5: STATIC IMAGES FROM GARMENT MODELING VIDEO ................... 219
APPENDIX 6: CONSENT FORM ............................................................................................ 221
APPENDIX 7: GARMENT DESCRIPTION SHEETS .......................................................... 223
GARMENT#1 SLEEVELESS TOP……………………………………………………………………223
GARMENT #2 KNIT CARDIGAN ................................................................................................ 224
GARMENT #3 KNIT PANT ......................................................................................................... 225
GARMENT #4 TUNIC/DRESS ..................................................................................................... 226
GARMENT #5 PRINT TOP OVER NAVY TANK ........................................................................... 227
GARMENT #6 MAXI SKIRT ....................................................................................................... 228
GARMENT #7 SLEEVELESS JACKET .......................................................................................... 229
GARMENT #8 SLEEVELESS SWING TOP .................................................................................... 230
GARMENT #9 ANKLE PANT ...................................................................................................... 231
APPENDIX 8: STUDY QUESTIONNAIRE ............................................................................ 232
VITA…………………………………………………………………………………………….237
v

LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1-1. The woman on the left gazes at a stylishly dressed mannequin appears to have
abandoned fashion for comfort.. .......................................................................................... 1
Figure 2-1. Diagram of the four Inclusive Design Stages showing how they interrelate.. 31
Figure 3-1. Phases and key activities of inclusive design. ................................................ 46
Figure 4-1. Bloggers presenting a dramatic approach to dress.. ........................................ 70
Figure 4-2. Example of blogs that serve a dual purpose ................................................... 73
Figure 4-3. Dorrie's style. .................................................................................................. 74
Figure 4-4. Jennifer adds drama to her wardrobe with a long maxi-coat. ......................... 78
Figure 4-5. Clothing helps to counteract invisibility ......................................................... 79
Figure 4-6. Valerie is constantly on the lookout for unique vintage apparel to suit her
individuality ....................................................................................................................... 80
Figure 4-7. Stephanae wearing a knit top layered over a striped dress (left) and a stylish
color-blocked dress (right). ............................................................................................... 88
Figure 4-8. Judith poses in front of a vibrant backdrop that matches her ensemble. ........ 89
Figure 4-9. Susan A modeling a favorite maxi dress. ....................................................... 91
Figure 4-10. Une Femme is shown wearing a flowing cardigan over slim jeans. ............ 94
Figure 4-11. Eugenia in a fitted blouse, skirt, and cape. ................................................... 97
Figure 4-12. Layering garments of different lengths with fitted denim. ........................... 98
Figure 4-13. Bloggers wearing the color blue ................................................................. 100
Figure 4-14. (Left to right) Jess layers shades of pink in an outfit inspired by the color
palette in her scarf, Une Femme incorporates a printed blouse into her outfit, Judith wears
a printed maxi-dress. ....................................................................................................... 102
vi

Figure 4-15. Dorrie wears one of her favorite jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves.
......................................................................................................................................... 105
Figure 5-1. The four outfits in the mini-collection. ......................................................... 113
Figure 5-2. The idea log is a place to jot down general design ideas so they are not
forgotten. ......................................................................................................................... 116
Figure 5-3. Three examples of entries in the design process journal .............................. 117
Figure 5-4. The images of the final draped outcome of Maxi Skirt #6 on the dressmaker
form that was stored in a digital file. ............................................................................... 118
Figure 5-5. Silk organza print edge finish and tie and cotton print edge finish with jewelry
embellishment attached to the magnetic closure. ............................................................ 122
Figure 5-6. Sleeveless Jacket #7 features a unique digital print, shown in detail and
expanded view. A motif in this print also served as a model for Reversible Print Top #5.
. ........................................................................................................................................ 123
Figure 5-7. Bloggers were interested in apparel options that offered coverage to the arms.
......................................................................................................................................... 125
Figure 5-8. Three examples of garments whose appearance modified by tying. ............ 127
Figure 5-9. The length in the front of Sleeveless Swing Top #9 was modified/shortened to
be appealing to both wheelchair users and non-wheelchair users. .................................. 129
Figure 5-10. Garments that include features that allow adjustment in fits. ..................... 130
Figure 5-11. Coordinating pieces in the mini-collection creates what one blogger
identifies as a capsule wardrobe. ..................................................................................... 131
Figure 6-1. Two separate angles of the room setup facing away from the door. 146
vii

LIST OF TABLES

Table 2-1. The Top Five Evaluative Criteria for Purchase Decisions ............................... 36
Table 4-1. Blogger demographic information ................................................................... 61
Table 4-2. Summary of the review criteria for inclusive apparel design with definitions.
......................................................................................................................................... 109
Table 6-1. Demographic information for study participants in Phase Three. ................. 145
Table 6-2. Example of the first section of the questionnaire, including prompts. .......... 150
viii

UTILIZING SOCIAL MEDIA TO INFORM INCLUSIVE
APPAREL DESIGNS FOR BABY BOOMER WOMEN

Sandra Starkey

Dr. Jean Parsons, Dissertation Supervisor

ABSTRACT

Apparel design solutions for an aging population with unique needs are lacking in the
retail industry and specifically for baby boomer women. The fashion industry does not
acknowledge that older women value fashion and are interested in maintaining a sense of
style into old age. This study focused on expanding inclusive apparel design strategies and
specifically to evaluate baby boomer women’s clothing preferences through their fashion
blogs. Vital to this research was the design and construction of a mini-collection of clothing
that served two purposes. First, as a starting point in the development of apparel prototypes
designed specifically to satisfy multiple needs without calling attention to special
requirements. Second, to provide physical garments that users interacted with and provided
feedback about to inform recommendations for inclusive apparel prototypes designed for
baby boomer women.
The results from this study found that the study participants were interested in a
variety of clothing styles and silhouettes and specifically in fashion trends that could be
modified to accommodate an aging body. Design solutions addressed a range of needs
without calling attention to disabilities. Simple designs with easy to manage closures and
special details to enhance personal style were favored by the study participants. This research
contributed to apparel design scholarship, fully documented and evaluated the inclusive
design process and added to the body of qualitative research that utilizes social media and
specifically blogs as a rich data source.