Table Of ContentUnderstanding and improving the durability of textiles
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012
The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing
The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear.
Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has
individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is
to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate
information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries.
Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members
and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into
partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members
and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile
science and technology.
Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The
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A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have
been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found towards
the end of the contents pages.
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 132
Understanding and
improving the durability
of textiles
Edited by
Patricia A. Annis
Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012
Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2012942047
ISBN 978-0-85709-087-4 (print)
ISBN 978-0-85709-764-4 (online)
ISSN 2042-0803 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (print)
ISSN 2042-0811 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles (online)
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© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012
Contents
Contributor contact details xi
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xiii
Introduction xxi
Part I Aspects of textile durability
1 The influence of fabric construction and fibre
type on textile durability: woven, knitted
and nonwoven fabrics 3
D. PETRULIS,Kaunas University of Technology, Lithuania
1.1 Introduction 3
1.2 Woven, knitted and nonwoven fabric structures 4
1.3 Fibre and yarn properties that affect fabric durability 9
1.4 Durability of woven, knitted and nonwoven fabric structures 14
1.5 Durability of technical textiles: medical and breathable
textiles 22
1.6 Future trends 24
1.7 Sources of further information and advice 26
1.8 Acknowledgement 26
1.9 References 26
2 Strength properties of fabrics: understanding,
testing and enhancing fabric strength 31
J. N. CHAKRABORTY, National Institute of Technology, India
2.1 Introduction 31
2.2 Principles of fabric strength and its influence on durability 34
2.3 Methods for testing fabric strength 40
v
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vi Contents
2.4 Factors affecting fabric strength 45
2.5 Approaches to enhance fabric strength 50
2.6 Examples of durable textiles 53
2.7 Future trends 55
2.8 Sources of further information and advice 56
2.9 References 56
3 Dimensional stability of fabrics: resistance to
shrinkage and other dimensional changes 59
S. F. NG,C.L.HUIandC.IP, The Hong Kong Polytechnic
University, China
3.1 Introduction 59
3.2 Types of shrinkage 60
3.3 Treatments to maximise dimensional stability in fabrics 62
3.4 Case study: minimising shrinkage in knitted fabrics 65
3.5 Future trends 68
3.6 References 68
4 Durable press treatments to improve the durability
and wrinkle resistance of cotton and other fabrics 70
W.XUandX.WANG, Wuhan Textile University, China
4.1 Introduction 70
4.2 Development of durable press reagents 72
4.3 Properties affected by durable press treatments and other
methods to improve durability 75
4.4 Recent developments and future trends 78
4.5 References 79
5 Colour fastness 82
J.VALLDEPERAS-MORELL andF.CARRILLO-NAVARRETE, Universitat
Politècnica de Catalunya, Spain
5.1 Introduction 82
5.2 Principles of colour fastness 83
5.3 Colour fastness and dye–fibre system mechanism 87
5.4 Testing colour fastness 91
5.5 Applications and examples of colour fastness tests 95
5.6 Future trends 100
5.7 Sources of further information and advice 101
5.8 References 102
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012
Contents vii
6 Effects of light exposure on textile durability 104
V. RUBEZIENE, S. VARNAITE, J. BALTUSNIKAITE and I. PADLECKIENE,
SRI Center for Physical Sciences and Technology Textile Institute,
Lithuania
6.1 Introduction 104
6.2 The influence of sunlight on natural fibres 105
6.3 The influence of sunlight on synthetic and high
performance textiles 108
6.4 The process of photochemical destruction of textile
materials 112
6.5 Assessing the durability of textiles to light exposure 115
6.6 Methods for improving the durability of textiles
exposed to light 117
6.7 Future trends 121
6.8 References 121
7 Testing textile durability 126
M. BIDE,University of Rhode Island, USA
7.1 Introduction 126
7.2 Durability in textiles 127
7.3 Textile test methods 128
7.4 Testing strength and abrasion resistance 133
7.5 Testing for color loss in use 135
7.6 Testing the effects of laundering on fabric properties 137
7.7 Conclusions 141
7.8 References 141
Part II Durability of particular types of textiles
8 Durable antimicrobial textiles: types, finishes
and applications 145
V. P. DHENDE, I. R. HARDIN and J. LOCKLIN, University of Georgia,
USA
8.1 Introduction 145
8.2 Microbial degradation of natural fibers 146
8.3 Microbial degradation of synthetic fibers 149
8.4 Antimicrobial treatments for textiles 151
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viii Contents
8.5 Applications of antimicrobial finishes: the example of
medical textiles 164
8.6 Future trends and conclusions 164
8.7 Sources of further information and advice 165
8.8 References 165
9 Durability of protective clothing 174
A. SHAW,University of Maryland Eastern Shore, USA
9.1 Introduction 174
9.2 Testing the durability of protective clothing 176
9.3 Other factors that can affect the durability of protective
clothing 179
9.4 Future trends and conclusions 181
9.5 References 182
10 Durability of historic textiles 184
P.GARSIDE, British Library, UK
10.1 Introduction 184
10.2 Main durability issues that affect historic textiles 185
10.3 Durability of different fibres and fabrics 188
10.4 Physical context, environment and storage conditions 192
10.5 Conservation of historic textiles 194
10.6 Case studies of historic textiles 195
10.7 Conclusion 200
10.8 References 201
11 Silk durability and degradation 205
N.LUXFORD,University College London, UK
11.1 Introduction 205
11.2 Key issues for silk durability 206
11.3 Deterioration of silk 210
11.4 Methods to improve the durability of silk 214
11.5 The impact of treatments to improve the durability of silk 219
11.6 Future trends 223
11.7 Sources of further information and advice 224
11.8 References 225
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012
Contents ix
12 Durable geotextiles 233
H.-Y.JEON, Inha University, Republic of Korea
12.1 Introduction 233
12.2 Durability of nonwoven geotextiles in chemical
and waste leachate solutions 234
12.3 Protection performance of nonwoven geotextiles in waste
landfill 240
12.4 Weatherability of woven geotextiles for soft ground
improvement 249
12.5 Durability of nonwoven geotextiles in simulated
seawater solution 255
12.6 Conclusions 260
12.7 References 260
Index 263
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012
