Tourism in Afghanistan

743 Pages·2014·8.08 MB·English

ESSENTIAL FIELD GUIDES
to humanitarian and conflict zones
Afghanistan
Fourth Edition--Fully Revised
2014
Edited by Edward Girardet and Jonathan Walter
Co-Editor William Dowell
“The 4th edition of the Essential Field Guide to Afghanistan is
dedicated to Alfredo Witschi-Cestari (1948-2012), an inspirational
and moving force behind international efforts to help Afghans bring
peace and prosperity to their country.”
Crosslines Essential Media (UK), Ltd
Geneva & London
www.efgafghan.com
First published in Geneva, Switzerland by CROSSLINES Publications
Copyright © 1998, © 2004, © 2005 and © 2014. Edward Girardet & Jona-
than Walter
Co-editor: 2014 editions. William Dowell
Cover Photo Credit: Edward Girardet
Design and layout: Crosslines Essential Media, Geneva and London.
All rights reserved. No part of this book, either its original or revised edi-
tions, including the maps and photographs, may be reproduced, trans-
mitted or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, internet or computer reproduction, or
by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in
writing from the publishers. Brief extracts for review purposes for inclu-
sion in critical reviews or articles are permitted. Although every effort has
been made to ensure the correctness of the information in this book, the
publishers and authors do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability
to any party for any use or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading
information, or any travel problem caused by information in this guide,
even if such errors or omissions are the result of negligence, accident, or
any other cause.
The editors are responsible for the choice and presentation of the facts con-
tained in this book and for the opinions expressed herein, which are not
necessarily those of select donors such the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for
the Netherlands, the Swedish Committee for Afghanistan, the Smith Rich-
ardson Foundation, the Swiss Development Corporation, Sarah Lawrence
College, Media Action International, CROSSLINES, US Mission in Kabul,
Fetzer Institute or any other co-sponsor or publisher of this book, and do
not commit these organizations in any way. The designations employed
and the presentation of material throughout this publication do not rep-
resent the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the spon-
sors concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or its
authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.
Distribution by Crosslines Essential Media (UK) Ltd and Partners.
Please address all enquiries to:
CROSSLINES Essential Field Guides, Editorial Bureau C-517, Pal-
ais des Nations, 1202 Geneva, Switzerland. Email: editors@efgaf-
ghan.com Websites: www.efgafghan.com and www.essentialfield-
guides.com
ISBN: 978-2-9700923-0-8
Table of Contents
Acknowledgements
Editors
Preface
Maps
I. OVERVIEW
Introduction
Edward Girardet & Peter Jouvenal
The Great Game Revisited
Ahmed Rashid
Exploring the Origins of the Taliban
John Butt
The Recovery Challenge
Renata Dwan & Michael Keating
ISAF: Who Calls the shots Post-2014
Peter Foot & Victoria Porell
Learning to Live with IEDs
Tim Weaver
Afghanistan: A replay of Vietnam?
William Dowell
On the Trail of Britain’s Greatest Afghan Disaster
William Darymple
The Refugees
Peter Marsden
...as political pawns
...a refugee chronology
Lack of Justice: A driver of instability
Norah Niland
Women and The Barriers of Tradition
Christina Lamb
INSPIRE: Afghanistan’s Hannah Montana
Afghan Culture: Then and Now
Whitney Azoy
INSPIRE: Babur Gardens
Ethnic and Tribal Groups
Ali Wardak
Government: Assuming Responsibility
Kate Clark
Afghan Media: The Key to Transparency
Jean MacKenzie
Afghan History: Foreign Invasions, Brutal Wars
Chris Bowers
...the Soviet War: A quagmire that sapped Moscow’s
strength
An Afghan Timeline
II. INFOBRIEFS
Agriculture: Key to the Nation
Anthony Fitzherbert
INSPIRE: The chicken or the egg?
Al Qaeda in Afghanistan
Jason Burke
Aid After the Taliban
Edward Girardet
Children at Risk
Joanna de Berry
INSPIRE: Skateistan
BUZKASHI: A game of control
Whitney Azoy
Drugs: The opium poppy conundrum
William Dowell
Addicted to numbers: Lies, Damn lies and Drug Statistics
David Mansfield
The Durand Line: Unfinished Business
Charles Norchi
The Economy: From aid to sustainability
Edward Girardet
....Gems, Falcons and Cultural Artifacts
The Environment: Saving What Is Left
Edward Girardet
...Water and the Hindu Kush
... Air Pollution: Dust, cars and smog
Afghanistan’s Disappearing Forests
Edward Girardet
INSPIRE: Band-e-Amir National Park
INSPIRE: Alberto Cairo and the ICRC’s Orthopedic Centres
Struggle for Dignity: Why human rights count
Charles Norchi
INSPIRE: Rebuilding Afghan Culture:The
Nancy Dupree Initiative
Language & Poetry
Whitney Azoy
...The Landays Phenomenon
...Khalilullah Khalili

Foreign Media: A lack of balance
Jean MacKenzie
INSPIRE: The Afghan Media Resource Center
Nick B. Mills
Mineral Resources: Ore, Ore better than War, War
Edward Girardet
...China’s Aynak Copper Mine
The National Solidarity Programme
Naheed Mustafa
Private Military Contractors: Dogs of War?
William Dowell

Security Tips
Graham Flood-Hunt
Urban Recovery or Chaos?
Jolyon Leslie

Inspire: Saving Afghanistan’s Heritage
Edward Girardet
Women’s Rights
Sharifa Sharif

Women in conflict & peace building
Alfredo Witschi Cestari
INSPIRE: Daring to speak out
Afghan Youth: A neglected resource
Lola Cecchinel

III. TRAVEL
Travel by Air
...Flying to Afghanistan under the Taliban
Travel Overland
IV. REGIONS
The Central Region
Kabul
... Getting there
....Getting around
.... Aid Agencies
INSPIRE: Kabul at work
Kabul A-Z
Accommodation & Food
Guest Houses
Eating out
Local Rules
Security Information
A Note of Caution about Alcohol
Emergencies
Embassies & Visas
Medical
Post & Telecommunications
Shopping
Sights in Kabul
Then...a letter from Kabul, July 15 2003
Dominic Medley
...and now. Departure, Autumn 2013
Michael Keating
INSPIRE: Tourism in Afghanistan
Levison Woods
The Northern Region
Mazar-e-Sharif
....Getting there
....From Kabul to Mazar overland (425 kilometres)
Lala Gul
Jonathan Walter
Mazar A-Z
Bullet to Ballot - Then and Now
Jonathan Walter
Sights in Mazar-e-Sharif
The South
Kandahar
....Getting there
Kandahar A-Z
....Sights in Kandahar
The East
Jalalabad
....Getting there
....Orientation & getting around
Nuristan Land of Light
Jonathan Walter
Jalalabad A-Z
The West
Herat
....Getting there
....Orientation & getting Around
Herat A-Z
Sights in Herat
V. THE ESSENTIAL A-Z
The Basics
Clothing & Kit
Festivals & Holidays
Health & Medical
The 5 Fs of Dysentery
...Essential Contacts
Journalism & Reporting
News Reporting in Afghanistan
Taliban Logic: The Pushtun Psyche
New Home, New Life
Security
....Kidnapping
DOs and DON’Ts
IEDs & Suicide Bombers
Traditions & Customs
....Basic Rules
Women
VI. KEY PLAYERS
...Meeting Karzai
VII. CONTACTS
VIII. Glossary
Publicity