The Rough Guide to Sweden

394 Pages·2017·36.21 MB·English

by  Rough Guides

INSIDE THIS BOOK START YOUR JOURNEY WITH ROUGH GUIDES
INTRODUCTION What to see, what
Sweden chapters
not to miss, itineraries and more –
0 200
everything you need to get started
kilometres
Narvik Riksgränsen AND BASICS Pre-departure practical
Arctic Circle KGiärullnivaare FINL information
THE GUIDE Comprehensive, in-depth
Jokkmokk
N Mo-i-Rana 9 guide to Sweden, with area highlights
Haparanda and full-colour maps throughout TRUSTED TRAVEL GUIDES Since 1982, our books have helped over 35 million
Arvidsjaur Luleå travellers explore the world with accurate, honest and informed travel writing.
Sorsele CONTEXTS History, architecture
Piteå
Storuman Skellefteå and geography, plus recommended
Vilhelmina books covering Sweden and a useful
NORWAY
7 language section
Strömsund Umeå
Trondheim
Storlien Östersund Örnsköldsvik Vaasa
Åsarna FINLAND
Sundsvall
GULF
Sveg Hudiksvall OF
8 BOTHNIA
Söderhamn POCKET ROUGH GUIDES “Best of” section, essential itineraries and a unique
Mora Gävle Turku pull-out map featuring every sight and listing in the guide. Hip, handy and
We’ve fl agged up our favourite places – a
perfect for short trips and weekend breaks.
Åland perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café,
OSLO Uppsala Islands
a special restaurant – throughout the
2
Karlstad Guide with the symbol
4 STOCKHOLM ★
Örebro
1 ESTONIA
Norrköping
Linköping
Gothenburg
Jönköping Visby A
3 6 Gotland ATVI
Falkenberg L
Halmstad Kalmar Öland A
5 NI
Helsingborg A
BALTIC U
DENMMalAmRöK Kristianstad SEA LITH DIGITAL Choose from our easy-
1 Stockholm 6 The southeast to-use ebooks and great-value
2 Day-trips from Stockholm 7 The Bothnian coast Snapshots to read on your tablet,
3 Gothenburg 8 Central Sweden phone or e-reader.
4 Around Gothenburg 9 Swedish Lapland
5 The southwest
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Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com
This seventh edition published April 2017
000_000_Sweden7_Inside_Cover.indd 1 13/12/16 4:59 pm
THE ROUGH GUIDE TO
SWEDEN
This edition written and researched by
James Proctor and Steve Vickers
001_023_Sweden7_Intro.indd 1 08/12/16 12:55 pm
001_023_Sweden7_Intro.indd 2 25/11/16 12:58 pm
INTRODUCTION 3
Contents
INTRODUCTION 4
Where to go 6 Things not to miss 12
Author Picks 9 Itineraries 22
When to go 10
BASICS 24
Getting there 25 Festivals 33
Getting around 26 Sports and outdoor activities 33
Accommodation 29 Culture and etiquette 35
Food and drink 30 Travel essentials 35
The media 32
GUIDE 42
1 Stockholm 42 6 The southeast 192
2 Day-trips from Stockholm 78 7 The Bothnian coast 242
3 Gothenburg 106 8 Central Sweden 282
4 Around Gothenburg 128 9 Swedish Lapland 312
5 The southwest 146
CONTEXTS 354
History 355 Books 375
Swedish architecture 369 Swedish language 377
Geography 373 Glossary 383
SMALL PRINT & INDEX 384
OPPOSITE SÁMI MAN, SWEDISH LAPLAND PREVIOUS PAGE POPPY FIELD NEAR YSTAD
001_023_Sweden7_Intro.indd 3 25/11/16 12:58 pm
4 INTRODUCTION
0 200
kilometres Riksgränsen
Narvik
Arctic Circle E10
Kiruna
Metres
Gällivare Pajala
1500
1000
Jokkmokk
500
Mo-i-Rana LAPLAND NORR-
200 45 BOTTEN Haparanda
Introduction to
100 Luleå
Arvidsjaur
Sweden 0 E12 Sorsele Piteå Oulu
Storuman
Skellefteå
VÄSTER-
Vilhelmina BOTTEN
The mere mention of Sweden conjures up resonant images: snow-capped Dorotea E4
peaks, reindeer wandering in deep green forests and the 24-hour daylight of Strömsund Umeå
JÄMTLAND
the midnight sun. But beyond the household names of ABBA, IKEA and ÅNGERMANLAND
Trondheim E14
Volvo, Sweden is relatively unknown. The largest of the Scandinavian Storlien Sollefteå Örnsköldsvik
Östersund Vaasa
countries, with an area twice that of Britain (and roughly that of California), N
but a population of barely ten million, Sweden has space for everyone: the HÄRJÅEsar-na MEDELPAD SundHsväranlölsand
countryside boasts pine, spruce and birch forest as far as the eye can see and DALEN FINLAND
GULF OF
crystal-clear lakes perfect for a summer afternoon dip – not to mention Sveg HÄLSING BOTHNIA
Hudiksvall
possibly the purest air you’ll ever breathe. The country’s south and west -LAND
NORWAY Söderhamn
coasts, meanwhile, feature some of the most exquisite beaches in Europe
Mora
– without the crowds. Gävle Turku
DALARNA
GÄSTRIK
In general Sweden is a carefree place where life is relaxed. Indeed, the Swedes’ -LAND E4 Åland
liberal and open attitude to virtually every aspect of life is certainly one of their OSLO 45 UPPLAND Islands
most enviable qualities; people are generally left to do their own thing, providing VÄKRarMlstaLdAND VÄ-LSATNMDANE18VäUsptpesraålas
it doesn’t impinge on the rights and freedoms of others. In Sweden, rights go hand E6 E18 Örebro E20 STOCKHOLM
in hand with duties, and there’s a strong sense of civic obligation (count how few NÄRKE SÖRMLAND ESTONIA
DALS-
times you see people dropping litter, for example), which in turn makes for a BOHUSLÄN LAND Nyköping
well-rounded and stable society. Many of the cornerstones of the Swedish welfare Linköping Norrköping
state, such as tremendously generous benefits and health-care perks, which Swedes VÄSTEE20R ÖSTER
GÖTLAND GÖTLAND
still hold dear today, were laid down during forty years of unbroken rule by the
Visby
Social Democrats. Gothenburg Jönköping Gotland
LATVIA
Yet, over the years, foreigners have somehow confused the open Swedish attitude to Varberg HALLANDSMÅLAND E22
spoocpieutlya,t eindc slouldeilnyg w nituhd ipteyo apnled wseaxiutianlgit yf,o wr aitnhy soepx.p Corotnutnriatryy t too t peaorp ouffla rth beeilri ecfl,o Sthweesd aennd i sn’t FalkHenablmergstaEd6/E20 E4 Kalmar Öland
make passionate love under the midnight sun. It is, though, a country founded on Ängelholm BLEKINGE LITHUANIA
honesty and straight talking – two of Sweden’s most refreshing qualities. DENMARK Helsingborg SKÅNE Karlskrona BALTIC
COPENHAGEN Lund Kristianstad SEA
SWEDEN
ABOVE AERIAL VIEW OF STOCKHOLM TrelleborgMalmöYstad
001_023_Sweden7_Intro.indd 4 25/11/16 12:58 pm
0 200
kilometres Riksgränsen
Narvik
Arctic Circle E10
Kiruna
Metres
Gällivare Pajala
1500
1000
Jokkmokk
500
Mo-i-Rana LAPLAND NORR-
200 45 BOTTEN Haparanda
100 Luleå
Arvidsjaur
0 E12 Sorsele Piteå Oulu
Storuman
Skellefteå
VÄSTER-
Vilhelmina BOTTEN
Dorotea E4
Strömsund Umeå
JÄMTLAND
ÅNGERMANLAND
Trondheim E14
Storlien Sollefteå Örnsköldsvik
Östersund Vaasa
N
Åsarna Härnösand
HÄRJE- MEDELPAD Sundsvall
DALEN FINLAND
GULF OF
Sveg
HÄLSING BOTHNIA
Hudiksvall
-LAND
NORWAY Söderhamn
Mora
Gävle Turku
DALARNA
GÄSTRIK
-LAND E4 Åland
OSLO 45 UPPLAND Islands
VÄRMLAND VÄSTMAN VäUsptpesraålas
Karlstad -LAND E18
E6 E18 Örebro E20 STOCKHOLM
NÄRKE SÖRMLAND ESTONIA
DALS-
BOHUSLÄN LAND Nyköping
Linköping Norrköping
VÄSTEE20R ÖSTER
GÖTLAND GÖTLAND
Visby
Gothenburg Jönköping Gotland
LATVIA
Varberg HALLANDSMÅLAND E22
FalkHenablmergstaEd6/E20 E4 Kalmar Öland
LITHUANIA
Ängelholm BLEKINGE
DENMARK Helsingborg SKÅNE Karlskrona BALTIC
COPENHAGEN Lund Kristianstad SEA
SWEDEN
TrelleborgMalmöYstad
001_023_Sweden7_Intro.indd 5 25/11/16 12:58 pm
6 INTRODUCTION
FACT FILE Where to go
• Sweden is the third largest country in
western Europe – behind only France and Sweden is principally a land of forests and
Spain – stretching 1600km from north to
lakes. Its towns and cities are small by
south. If the country were pivoted around
on its southernmost point, the top of the European standards and are mostly
country would reach as far south as Naples
located in the southern third of the
in Italy.
country, where the majority of Swedes
• There is no translation for the Swedish
word lagom, one of the most commonly live. Of its cities, serenely beautiful
used terms in the language. Roughly Stockholm is supreme. Sitting elegantly
speaking, it means “just the right amount,
on fourteen different islands, where the
not too much but not too little”, a concept
that is the very essence of Swedishness. waters of Lake Mälaren meet the Baltic
• More than half of Sweden’s land surface is Sea, the city boasts some fantastic
covered with forest – mostly coniferous
architecture, fine museums and by far the
– punctuated by an astonishing 100,000
lakes. best culture and nightlife in the country.
• Sweden is home to the world’s first and The 24,000 islands which comprise the
largest hotel made entirely of ice and snow.
Icehotel is built in December using blocks of Stockholm archipelago are a perfect
ice cut from the local Torne River. The hotel antidote to the urban bustle, offering
melts back into the river in May.
endless opportunities to explore unspoilt
• In northern Sweden frozen lakes and rivers
island villages and to go swimming. On
are used by drivers looking for a shortcut to
their destination. The national road agency the west coast, Gothenburg, the country’s
marks out “ice roads” and decides when the second city, is also one of Sweden’s most
ice is thick enough to support a vehicle.
appealing destinations. Gothenburgers
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INTRODUCTION 7
MIDSUMMER MAYHEM
An atmosphere akin to Mediterranean joie de vivre takes over Sweden during the midsummer
solstice (the weekend closest to June 24), when maypoles are erected as giant fertility
symbols in gardens and parks across the country. Midsummer is not a time for staying in
towns – everyone heads to the countryside and coasts, with Dalarna, the island of Öland and
the shores of the Bohuslän coast being just a few of the most popular spots. Aided in no small
part by copious quantities of alcohol, the population’s national characteristics of reserve and
restraint dissolve over midsummer weekend. Long trestle tables draped in white cloths and
sagging under the weight of multiple varieties of herring, potatoes with dill and gallons of
akvavit are set up outside, and parties go on through the light night with dancing to the
strains of accordions and fiddles.
have a reputation for being among the friendliest people in Sweden, and the city’s network
of canals and spacious avenues is reminiscent of Amsterdam, whose architects designed it.
The south is the most cosmopolitan part of the country, owing to the proximity of
Denmark and the rest of the European continent. Here you’ll find the glorious ancient
university seat of Lund and, nearby, Sweden’s third city, Malmö, which heaves with
youthful nightlife around its medieval core.
Inland, southern Sweden boasts some handsome lakes, the two largest of which, Vänern
and Vättern, provide splendid backdrops to some beautiful towns, not least the evocative
former royal seat and the monastic centre of Vadstena, and Karlstad, the sunshine capital
of Värmland, a rugged province ideal for river-rafting trips. To the east of the mainland
lies Gotland, justifiably raved about as a haven for summer revelry, especially within the
medieval walls of its unspoilt Hanseatic city, Visby.
Central and northern Sweden represent the most quintessentially “Swedish-looking”
part of the country. In the centre lies Dalarna, an area of rolling hills and villages that’s
LEFT SANDHAMMAREN BEACH, SKÅNE
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8 INTRODUCTION
home to Lake Siljan, one of Sweden’s most beautiful lakes. North of here lies some of the
country’s most enchanting scenery, home to bears, wolves and reindeer. To the east, the
shoreline of the Bothnian coast contains the north’s biggest cities: Sundsvall, Umeå and
Luleå are all enjoyable, lively places in which to break your journey north.
The far north, inside the Arctic Circle, is the home of the Sámi – Sweden’s indigenous
people. Known as Swedish Lapland, it is also the land of reindeer, elk and bears, of
swiftly flowing rivers and coniferous forest, all traversed by endless hiking routes.
Sweden’s northernmost town, Kiruna, makes an excellent base for exploring the region’s
national parks and the world-famous Icehotel in nearby Jukkasjärvi. Swedish Lapland is
also the place to come to experience the midnight sun: in high summer the sun never
sets, whilst in midwinter the opposite is true, though you may be lucky enough to see
the sky lit up by the multicoloured patterns of the northern lights, or aurora borealis.
NORTHERN LIGHTS
Also known by their Latin name, aurora borealis, the northern lights are visible all across
northern Sweden during the dark months of winter. These spectacular displays of
green-blue shimmering arcs and waves of light are caused by solar wind, or streams of
particles charged by the sun, hitting the atmosphere. The colours are the characteristic
hues of different elements when they hit the plasma shield that protects the Earth: blue is
nitrogen and yellow-green is oxygen. Although the mechanisms which produce the aurora
are not completely understood, the displays are generally more impressive the closer you
get to the poles – low temperatures are also rumoured to produce some of the most
dramatic performances. Gällivare and Kiruna, both well inside the Arctic Circle, are
arguably the best places in Sweden to catch a glimpse of the aurora, particularly during the
coldest winter months from December to February. Although displays can range from just
a few minutes to several hours, the night sky must be clear of cloud to see the northern
lights from Earth.
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