The President’s Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas

292 Pages·2017·9.55 MB·English

by  Adrian Miller

The President’s
Kitchen Cabinet
★ ★ ★
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The President’s
Kitchen Cabinet
The Story of the
A f r i cA n A m e r i cA n s
Who Have Fed Our First Families,
from the WA s h i n gto n s to the
o bA m A s
★
Adrian Miller
the University of north cArolinA Press
Chapel Hill
This book was published with the assistance of the
John hoPe frAnklin fUnd
of the University of North Carolina Press.
© 2017 Adrian Miller
All rights reserved
Manufactured in the United States of America
Designed by Richard Hendel
Set in Bulmer by Tseng Information Systems, Inc.
The University of North Carolina Press has been a
member of the Green Press Initiative since 2003.
Cover illustrations: newly remodeled White House kitchen, 1902 (courtesy
Library of Congress); Obama State Service Plate (courtesy White House
Historical Association); Gilbert Stuart, Portrait of George Washington’s Cook,
ca. 1795–97. © 2016 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza / Scala, Florence.
Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data
Names: Miller, Adrian, author.
Title: The president’s kitchen cabinet : the story of the African Americans who
have fed our first families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas / Adrian Miller.
Description: Chapel Hill : The University of North Carolina Press, [2017] |
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: lccn 2016042812| isbn 9781469632537 (cloth : alk. paper) |
isbn 9781469632544 (ebook)
Subjects: lcsh: African American cooks—Biography. | Cooks—
United States—Biography. | White House (Washington, D.C.)—
Employees. | Presidents—United States—Staff—History. | Presidents—
United States—History. | White House (Washington, D.C.)—History.
Classification: lcc tX649.A1 m55 2017 | ddc 641.5092/2 [b] —dc23
lc record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016042812
To all of the past, present, and future
presidential cooks of African heritage:
Your light shines bright despite persistent efforts
to keep you in the shadows.
To the late WAlter scheib iii,
White House executive chef (1994–2005),
whose enthusiasm for my work
kept my pilot light lit.
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contents
Preface xi
1. the key ingredients
of PresidentiAl foodWAys 1
reciPes
How to Roast Ducks 29
Zephyr Wright’s Popovers 30
Sweet Potato Cheesecake 31
2. feeling At home
The White House Steward and the Evolution
of Presidential Provisioning 33
reciPes
Minted Green Pea Soup 57
Bison Meat Brazilian Onions 58
3. bittersWeet
African American Presidential Cooks in
Antebellum America 59
reciPes
Hoecakes 88
Snow Eggs 89
Baked Macaroni with Cheese 90
4. semisWeet
Personal and Professional Presidential Cooks
after Emancipation 92
reciPes
Pedernales River Chili 123
President Eisenhower’s Old- Fashioned Beef Stew 124
Caroline Harrison’s Deviled Almonds 124
5. eAting on the rUn
Presidential Foodways in Motion 126
reciPes
Daisy Bonner’s Cheese Soufflé 158
Hawaiian French Toast 159
Jerk Chicken Pita Pizza 160
6. seeing throUgh A glAss dArkly
African Americans and Presidential Drinkways 161
reciPes
Inauguration Punch 185
White House Eggnog 186
White House Honey Ale 187
7. Above meAsUre
The Future of African American Presidential Chefs 189
reciPes
Sesame and Wasabi– Crusted Halibut 204
Layered Late- Summer Vegetables with Lemongrass
and Red Curry Dressing 205
Grilled Salmon with Farro, Swiss Chard Salad,
and a Tropical Smoothie 208
Notes 211
Bibliography 227
Index 245
illUstrAtions
African American Presidential Culinary Professionals, 1789–2017 xx
White House family kitchen, circa 1901 3
White House family dining room, circa 1901 9
White House kitchen, circa 1952 15
Author in White House kitchen with Adam Collick,
White House kitchen steward 28
Samuel Fraunces newspaper advertisement, 1789 38
William T. Crump, presidential steward, 1862 44
White House market wagon, circa 1909 47
Inventory of kitchen utensils at Monticello,
written by James Hemings 73
Old Soldiers’ Home, Washington, D.C., 2015 85
Domestic staff for President Hayes, March 1877 96
Dollie Johnson in White House kitchen, circa 1890 99
Dollie Johnson restaurant advertisement, 1905 104
John Moaney grilling with President Eisenhower, n.d. 112
Paula Patton- Moutsos, White House assistant chef, 2003 122
Kitchen staffer during Kennedy administration, circa 1961 134
Daisy Bonner at Warm Springs, Georgia, n.d. 137
Presidential yacht USS Mayflower, circa 1912 140
White House Mess during the Reagan administration, 1986 145
Reagan-era Air Force One, rear galley, 2015 156
Arthur Brooks, White House wine cellar custodian, 1919 167
Alonzo Fields with other White House butlers, n.d. 174
Republic of South Africa State Dinner menu card, 1994 194
Adam Collick, White House kitchen steward, 2003 199
Kiana Farkash at 2014 Kids’ State Dinner 202
A section of color photographs follows page 106