The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting

893 Pages·2012·34.901 MB·English

by  Veblen

The Complete Photo Guide to
PERFECT FITTING
CONTENTS
Introduction
LAYING THE FOUNDATION
Developing a Solid Approach to Fitting
Why Fitting is Complicated
Each Individual is Unique
Pattern and Fitting Basics
How Patterns are Developed
Finding Your Way Around a Pattern
Garment Silhouettes and Ease
Choosing a Pattern Size
Tools for Pattern Work and Fitting
The Interrelationship Between Patterns and Fitting
Overview of the Fitting Process
Recognizing Fitting Issues
A Framework for Fitting
The Fitting Axis
The Horizontal Balance Line
Fundamentals of Fitting Muslins
Learning to Look
The Body as “Volume”
Fitting Others and Yourself
What to Wear for a Fitting
Preparing the Test Muslin for a Fitting
Clipping and Marking During a Fitting
Pinning
Keeping the Muslin Balanced
Fitting Order
Fitting Tips
Assessing the Fit
Fundamentals of Altering Patterns
Glossary of Patternmaking Terms
Making Flat Pattern Adjustments
Transferring Muslin Markings to the Pattern
Blending Seams, Using the Rulers, and Adding Seam Allowances
Lengthening and Shortening Patterns, and Grainline Arrows
Walking and Truing a Pattern
Placing and Creating Notches
Controlling Patterns with Built-in Ease
Truing Difficult Seams
Moving the Placement of a Seam
Moving a Dart to a New Location
Truing Dart Legs
Scaling Patterns Up and Down
Working in an Efficient Order
DEVELOPING YOUR ABILITY
The Process of Fitting Garments
Skirt
Bodice with Darts
Bodice with Shoulder Princess Line
Jacket with Side Panel with Set-in Sleeve
Tunic with Armscye Princess Line
Bodice with Raglan Sleeve
Fitting Solutions for Body Types and Related Pattern Alterations
Bust
Back
Sides
Shoulder Line and Neck
Set-in Sleeves
Raglan Sleeves
Waist and Hips
Fitting Pants
Understanding Body Mass and Pants Volume
Fine-tuning the Fit
The Process of Fitting Pants
Body Type Examples
Typical Pants Pattern Alterations
GOING TO THE NEXT LEVEL
Correcting Pattern Elements Affected by Fitting Changes
Waistbands
Facings
Collars
Linings
Get Creative
Using Style Lines to Create Pleasing Proportions
Dart Equivalents
Collar Variations
Cuffs and Sleeve Hems
About the Author
Index