The Chemistry of Fragrances: From Perfumer to Consumer

348 Pages·2006·16.38 MB·English

by  Charles Sell

The Chemistry of Fragrances
From Perfumer to Consumer
2nd Edition
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The Chemistry of
Fragrances
From Perfumer to Consumer
2nd Edition
Edited by
Charles Sell
Quest International,Ashford, Kent
ISBN-10: 0-85404-824-3
ISBN-13: 978-0-85404-824-3
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
© The Royal Society of Chemistry 2006
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Preface
Chemistry is defined as the study of the properties of substances and
their interactions with each other. It is easy to see how the word has also
developed a colloquial meaning related to the effect of animate, inani-
mate and abstract entities on humans. So in a phrase such as ‘the chem-
istry is right’, the word takes on almost the meaning of ‘magic’.
Chemistry, in both senses of the word, is central to perfumery. A mod-
ern perfumery company will house specialists in all branches of chem-
istry from physical chemists through analysts and synthetic organic
chemists to biochemists. Indeed, the spectrum of skills will range right
across into biological fields such as toxicology and sensory and behav-
ioural sciences. All of these specialists work together with perfumers,
accountants, marketers and salespeople. No one skill is sufficient to
meet the needs of the business and all must pull together as a team. The
sensory scientists and marketers are particularly aware of the other
sense of ‘chemistry’in fragrance since they study and use the hedonic
effects of perfume in designing the right fragrance to support each indi-
vidual consumer product.
Our primary aim in this book is to show the use of chemistry in an
exciting and rewarding business environment. However, we also felt
that we should attempt to convey the interdisciplinary teamwork that is
essential for success. In order to do this, we have invented a story that
runs through the chapters and, we hope, links them together in a way
that will show how different specialists work together in a modern per-
fumery company. Chemistry will remain a core discipline of the fra-
grance industry for the foreseeable future. The sustainability of the
industry and its ability to provide for people’s needs and wishes relies
on chemistry to provide solutions for such issues as dwindling mineral
oil reserves, conservation of oil-bearing plants, increasing need for per-
formance (especially on safety and environmental grounds) in fra-
grances and an ever stricter regulatory environment.
vi Preface
I would like to thank all of my fellow authors for their enthusiasm
and for the effort that they have put in. In turn, all of us thank the many
other colleagues whose hard work and commitment were necessary in
order to make this book possible.
Charles Sell
Contents
Acknowledgement xiv
Glossary xv
Chapter 1
The Human Relationship with Fragrance 1
Linda Harman
Chapter 2
The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume 3
David H. Pybus
2.1 Early Use of Fragrance 4
2.2 The Age of Chivalry 9
2.3 The Age of Alchemy 10
2.4 The Age of Discovery 12
2.5 The Age of Revolution 16
2.6 The Age of Empire (Nineteenth Century) 18
2.6.1 Technique 19
2.6.2 Structured Perfumes, and Use of Synthetics 19
2.6.3 Industrialisation and ‘Massification’ 20
2.7 The Age of Fashion (Twentieth Century) 20
Chapter 3
Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin 24
Charles Sell
3.1 Perfumes and Odours in Nature 24
3.1.1 Introduction 24
3.1.2 Biosynthesis 26
3.2 Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients 33
3.2.1 Expression 33
viii Contents
3.2.2 Distillation 34
3.2.3 Solvent Extraction 36
3.3 Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients 43
3.4 From Natural to Synthetic 45
References 51
Chapter 4
Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry 52
Charles Sell
4.1 Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient
Production 52
4.2 Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenoids 54
4.2.1 Introduction 54
4.2.2 Five Key Terpenoids 56
4.2.3 Feedstocks 57
4.2.4 Pinene Pyrolysis 58
4.2.5 Pinane Pyrolysis 58
4.2.6 The Carroll Reaction 59
4.2.7 The Claisen Rearrangement 61
4.2.8 Prenyl Chloride 61
4.2.9 The Ene Reaction 61
4.2.10 Elegance, a Four-Step Process 62
4.2.11 Hemiterpenoids 63
4.2.12 Acyclic Monoterpenoids 63
4.2.13 Cyclic Monoterpenes 68
4.2.14 Menthol 72
4.2.15 Bicyclic Monoterpenoids 80
4.2.16 Sesquiterpenoids 81
4.2.17 Cedarwood 84
4.2.18 Sandalwood 85
4.2.19 Diterpenoids 88
4.2.20 Ambergris 88
4.2.21 Ionones and Related Compounds 91
4.3 Musks 95
4.4 Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene 106
4.5 Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene 110
4.6 Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol 113
4.7 Pefrume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene 119
4.8 Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials 122
Contents ix
4.9 Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone 128
4.10 Perfume Ingredients Derived from
Dicyclopentadiene 129
4.11 Conclusions 131
References 131
Chapter 5
The Structure of an International Fragrance Company 132
David H. Pybus
5.1 The Business-Getting Chain 134
5.2 The Supply Chain 135
References 137
Chapter 6
The Perfume Brief 138
David H. Pybus
6.1 Brief for Eve – Prepared by Business Scents Ltd 141
6.1.1 Background 141
6.1.2 Product Range 141
6.1.3 General 141
6.1.4 Fragrance 141
6.1.5 Timescale 142
6.1.6 Brief Recipients 142
6.1.7 Price 142
6.1.8 Production 142
6.2 Toxicology 142
Chapter 7
Perfumer Creation: The Role of the Perfumer 143
Les Small
7.1 Soap 147
7.2 Shampoo 148
7.3 Shower and Bath Gel 149
7.4 Antiperspirant 150
Reference 150
x Contents
Chapter 8
Measurement of Fragrance Perception 151
Anne Churchill
8.1 Introduction 151
8.2 Market Research 152
8.3 Sensory Analysis 153
8.3.1 Threshold 154
8.3.2 Intensity 155
8.3.3 Quality 156
8.3.3.1 Qualitative Descriptive Analysis 156
8.3.3.2 Odour Profiling 157
8.3.4 Statistical Techniques 157
8.3.4.1 Multidimensional Scaling 158
8.3.4.2 Principal Component Analysis 158
8.4 Multisensory Approach 159
8.5 Psychology of Perfume 162
8.6 The Business Scents Brief 163
8.6.1 Definition of the Appropriate Odour Area 163
8.7 Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the
Appropriate Odour Characteristics 165
8.8 Creating Fragrances for the Future 165
References 166
Chapter 9
The Application of Fragrance 168
Judi Beerling
9.1 The Role of the Applications Department 168
9.2 Product Formulations 169
9.2.1 Fine Fragrance 170
9.2.2 Vegetable Soap 171
9.2.3 Aerosol Antiperspirant 173
9.2.4 Shampoo 176
9.2.5 Shower and Bath Gel 178
9.3 Stability Testing 179
9.3.1 Humidity Testing 180
9.3.2 Light Testing 181
9.3.3 Assessment and Reporting of Results 181
References 183