Table Of ContentThe
CAMBRIDGE
WORLD HISTORY
of
FOOD
Board of Editors
Kenneth F.Kiple
Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas
General Editors
George Armelagos Robert Fogel Brian Murton
Department of Anthropology Center for Population Economics Department of Geography
Emory University University of Chicago University of Hawaii
Atlanta, Georgia Chicago, Illinois Manoa, Hawaii
Maurice Aymard DanielW. Gade Marion Nestle
Maison des Sciences de l’Homme Department of Geography Department of Nutrition, Food and Hotel
Paris, France University of Vermont Management
Burlington, Vermont New York University
Thomas G. Benedek New York, New York
Department of Medicine Alan H. Goodman
University of Pittsburgh School of School of Natural Sciences James L. Newman
Medicine Hampshire College Department of Geography
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Amherst, Massachusetts Syracuse University
Syracuse,New York
Donald Brothwell Louis E. Grivetti
Institute of Archaeology Department of Nutrition K. David Patterson†
University of London University of California, Davis Department of History
London, England Davis, California University of North Carolina
Charlotte, North Carolina
William F. Bynum Jerome Handler
Wellcome Institute for the History of Virginia Foundation for the Humanities Jeffery Pilcher
Medicine Charlottesville, Virginia Department of History
London, England The Citadel
Mary Karasch Charleston, South Carolina
Doris Howes Calloway Department of History
Department of Nutritional Sciences Oakland University Ted A. Rathbun
University of California, Berkeley Rochester, Michigan Department of Anthropology
Berkeley, California University of South Carolina
Jack Ralph Kloppenburg, Jr. Columbia, South Carolina
Kenneth J. Carpenter College of Agriculture and Life Sciences
Department of Nutritional Sciences University of Wisconsin Clark Sawin
University of California, Berkeley Madison, Wisconsin Medical Center
Berkeley, California Veterans Administration
John Komlos Boston, Massachusetts
Alfred W. Crosby Seminar für Wirtschaftsgeschichte
Department of American Studies University of Munich Roger Schofield
University of Texas Munich, Germany Cambridge Group for the History of
Austin, Texas Population and Social Structure
Norman Kretchmer Cambridge,England
Philip D. Curtin Department of Nutritional Sciences
Department of History University of California, Berkeley Frederick J. Simoons
Johns Hopkins University Berkeley, California Department of Geography
Baltimore, Maryland University of California, Davis
Stephen J. Kunitz Davis, California
Frederick L. Dunn Department of Preventive Medicine
Department of Epidemiology and University of Rochester Medical Center Noel W. Solomons
Biostatistics Rochester, New York Center for Studies of Sensory Impairment,
University of California Aging and Metabolism (CeSSIAM)
San Francisco, California Clark Spencer Larsen Eye and Ear Hospital
Department of Anthropology Guatemala City, Guatemala
Stanley L. Engerman University of North Carolina
Department of Economics and History Chapel Hill, North Carolina John C. Super
University of Rochester Department of History
Rochester, New York Leslie Sue Lieberman West Virginia University
Department of Anthropology Morgantown, West Virginia
Antoinette Fauve-Chamoux University of Florida
Commission Internationale de Gainesville, Florida Douglas H. Ubelaker
Démographie Historique Department of Anthropology
Paris, France Ellen Messer National Museum of Natural History
World Hunger Program Smithsonian Institution
Brown University Washington D.C.
Providence, Rhode Island
EDITORS
Kenneth F. Kiple
Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Stephen V. Beck
ASSOCIATE EDITORS
Rachael Rockwell Graham
H. Micheal Tarver
ASSISTANT EDITORS
Jack G.Benge Graham K.Kiple
Paul Buckingham Jane D.Kiple
Anne Calahan Jonicka Peters
Kristine Dahm Shimale Robinson
Julie Rae Fenstermaker Roy Smith
Peter Genovese Jeffery Sodergren
Jeffery Grim Kerry Stewart
David Harold David Trevino
Carrie R.Kiple Gerald Vidro-Valentin
The
CAMBRIDGE
WORLD HISTORY
of
FOOD
EDITORS
Kenneth F. Kiple
Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas
VOLUME ONE
Cambridge, New York, Melbourne, Madrid, Cape Town, Singapore, São Paulo
Cambridge University Press
The Edinburgh Building, Cambridge , United Kingdom
Published in the United States of America by Cambridge University Press, New York
www.cambridge.org
Information on this title: www.cambridge.org/9780521402163
© Cambridge University Press 2000
This book is in copyright. Subject to statutory exception and to the provision of
relevant collective licensing agreements, no reproduction of any part may take place
without the written permission of Cambridge University Press.
First published in print format 2000
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eBook (Gale)
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eBook (Gale)
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hardback
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hardback
Cambridge University Press has no responsibility for the persistence or accuracy of
s for external or third-party internet websites referred to in this book, and does not
guarantee that any content on such websites is, or will remain, accurate or appropriate.
The following illustrations in Part II are from the LuEsther T. Mertz Library, The
New York Botanical Garden, Bronx, New York: Corn, Sorghum.
The following illustrations in Parts II and III are from the General Research Division,
The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations: Banana plant,
White potato, Prickly sago palm, Taro, Early onion, Lentil, Cabbage, Brussels sprouts,
Cucumber, Watermelon, Field mushroom, Long white squash, Tomato, Chestnut,
Peanut, Sesame, Soybean, Coriander, Peking duck, Geese, Goat, Cacao, Kola.
The following illustrations in Parts II and III are from the Rare Book and Manuscript
Library, Columbia University: Oat, Olive, Sugar, Reindeer, Cattle, Turkey, Coffee.
In Memory of
Norman Kretchmer
Richard P. Palmieri
James J.Parsons
Daphne A.Roe
and
K.David Patterson
(cid:2)
__________________________ __________________________
CONTENTS
VOLUME ONE
List of Tables, Figures, and Maps page xix
List of Contributors xxix
Preface xxxvii
Acknowledgments xxxix
Introduction 1
Part I Determining What Our Ancestors Ate 11
I.1. Dietary Reconstruction and Nutritional Assessment of Past Peoples:
The Bioanthropological Record 13
Clark Spencer Larsen
I.2. Paleopathological Evidence of Malnutrition 34
Donald J. Ortner and Gretchen Theobald
I.3. Dietary Reconstruction As Seen in Coprolites 44
Kristin D. Sobolik
I.4. Animals Used for Food in the Past:As Seen byTheir Remains Excavated
from Archaeological Sites 51
Elizabeth S. Wing
I.5. Chemical Approaches to Dietary Representation 58
Ted A. Rathbun
I.6. History,Diet,and Hunter-Gatherers 63
Mark Nathan Cohen
ix
x Contents
Part II Staple Foods: Domesticated Plants and Animals
II.A. Grains 75
II.A.1. Amaranth 75
Mary Karasch
II.A.2. Barley 81
Joy McCorriston
II.A.3. Buckwheat 90
G. Mazza
II.A.4. Maize 97
Ellen Messer
II.A.5. Millets 112
J. M. J. de Wet
II.A.6. Oat 121
David M. Peterson and J. Paul Murphy
II.A.7. Rice 132
Te-Tzu Chang
II.A.8. Rye 149
Hansjörg Küster
II.A.9. Sorghum 152
J. M. J. de Wet
II.A.10. Wheat 158
Joy McCorriston
II.B. Roots, Tubers, and Other Starchy Staples
II.B.1. Bananas and Plantains 175
Will C. McClatchey
II.B.2. Manioc 181
Mary Karasch
II.B.3. Potatoes (White) 187
Ellen Messer
II.B.4. Sago 201
H. Micheal Tarver and Allan W. Austin
II.B.5. Sweet Potatoes andYams 207
Patricia J. O’Brien
II.B.6. Taro 218
Nancy J. Pollock
II.C. Important Vegetable Supplements
II.C.1. Algae 231
Sheldon Aaronson
II.C.2. The AlliumSpecies (Onions,Garlic,Leeks,Chives,and Shallots) 249
Julia Peterson
II.C.3. Beans,Peas,and Lentils 271
Lawrence Kaplan
Contents xi
II.C.4. Chilli Peppers 281
Jean Andrews
II.C.5. Cruciferous and Green Leafy Vegetables 288
Robert C. Field
II.C.6. Cucumbers,Melons,and Watermelons 298
David Maynard and Donald N. Maynard
II.C.7. Fungi 313
Sheldon Aaronson
II.C.8. Squash 335
Deena S. Decker-Walters and Terrence W. Walters
II.C.9. Tomatoes 351
Janet Long
II.D. Staple Nuts
II.D.1. Chestnuts 359
Antoinette Fauve-Chamoux
II.D.2. Peanuts 364
Johanna T. Dwyer and Ritu Sandhu
II.E. Animal, Marine, and Vegetable Oils
II.E.1. An Overview of Oils and Fats,with a Special Emphasis on Olive Oil 375
Sean Francis O’Keefe
II.E.2. Coconut 388
Hugh C. Harries
II.E.3. Palm Oil 397
K. G. Berger and S. M. Martin
II.E.4. Sesame 411
Dorothea Bedigian
II.E.5. Soybean 442
Thomas Sorosiak
II.E.6. Sunflower 427
Charles B. Heiser, Jr.
II.F. Trading in Tastes
II.F.1. Spices and Flavorings 431
Hansjörg Küster
II.F.2. Sugar 437
J. H. Galloway
II.G. Important Foods from Animal Sources
II.G.1. American Bison 450
J. Allen Barksdale
II.G.2. Aquatic Animals 456
Colin E. Nash
II.G.3. Camels 467
Elizabeth A. Stephens
