Revisiting Amazonian Plants for Skin Care and Disease

12 Pages·2017·0.27 MB·English

cosmetics
Review
Revisiting Amazonian Plants for Skin Care
and Disease
BrunoBurlando1,2 ID andLauraCornara2,3,*
1 DepartmentofPharmacy,UniversityofGenova,VialeBenedettoXV,16132Genova,Italy;
[email protected]
2 BiophysicsInstitute,NationalResearchCouncil(CNR),viaDeMarini6,16149Genova,Italy
3 DepartmentofEarth,EnvironmentandLifeSciences,UniversityofGenova,CorsoEuropa26,
16132Genova,Italy
* Correspondence:[email protected];Tel.:[phone]
Received:1July2017;Accepted:20July2017;Published:26July2017
Abstract: Thisreviewconcernsfivespeciesoftreesandpalmtreesthatoccurasdominantplantsin
differentrainforestareasoftheAmazonregion.Duetotheirabundance,thesespeciescanbeexploited
assustainablesourcesofbotanicalmaterialsandincludeCarapaguianensisAubl.,familyMeliaceae;
EperuafalcataAubl.,familyFabaceae;QuassiaamaraL.,familySimaroubaceae;andAttaleaspeciosa
Mart. andOenocarpusbatauaMart.,familyArecaceae. Foreachspecies,thegeneralfeatures,major
constituents,overallmedicinalproperties,detaileddermatologicalandskincareapplications,and
possibleharmfuleffectshavebeenconsidered. ThemajorproductsincludeseedoilsfromA.speciosa
andC.guianensis,fruitoilfromO.bataua,andactivecompoundssuchaslimonoidsfromC.guianensis,
flavonoidsfromE.falcata,andquassinoidsfromQ.amara.Thedermatologicandcosmeticapplications
oftheseplantsaregrowingrapidlybutarestillwidelybasedonempiricknowledge. Applications
includeskinrehydrationandsoothing;anti-inflammatory,antiage,andantiparasiteeffects;haircare;
burnandwoundhealing;andtheameliorationofrosaceaandpsoriasisconditions. Despitealimited
knowledgeabouttheirconstituentsandproperties, thesespeciesappearaspromisingsourcesof
bioactivecompoundsforskincareandhealthapplications. Animprovementofknowledgeabout
theirpropertieswillprovideaddedvaluetotheexploitationoftheseforestresources.
Keywords: Amazoniantreespecies;antiageproperties;essentialfattyacids;flavonoids;haircare;
humectant;limonoids;quassinoids;skinsoothing;woundhealing
1. Introduction
Thesearchfornewbioactiveprinciplestobeusedinpharmaceuticalandcosmeticproductsisto
awideextentdirectedtowardsnaturalsources,mostlybotanicalentities. TheAmazonregionholds
extraordinarilyrichplantdiversity,andthereforeitisattractingmuchinterestforthediscoveryof
newbioactiveprinciples. Traditionalplantremediesaregenerallyapreferentialstartingpointfor
projectsofdrugdiscoveryfromnaturalsources. However,unlikeAsiantraditionalmedicines,popular
remediesfromtheAmazonhavenotbeenrecordedforthousandsofyearsinherbalpharmacopoeia.
Bycontrast,indigenousgroupshavemadeextensiveuseofrainforestplantmaterialstomeettheir
healthneeds. Onlyinrecenttimes,theAmazonianethnobotanicalculturehasstartedtobediscovered
andtakenintoconsiderationforthedevelopmentofnewdrugsandskincareproducts.
Inthisreview,wereportfivespeciesoftreesandpalmtreesthatoccurasdominantspeciesin
differentrainforestareasoftheAmazonregion. Duetotheirabundantoccurrenceandthepossibility
ofcultivation,thesespeciescanbeexploitedassustainablesourcesofbotanicalmaterials. Theyinclude
Carapa guianensis Aubl., a timbertree of the Meliaceae family that can be cultivated and is known
asalternativemahogany;EperuafalcataAubl.,atimbertreeofFabaceaethatisdominantinGuyana
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forests;QuassiaamaraL.,asmalltreebelongingtoSimaroubaceaethatiscultivatedonacommercial
scale;andtwoveryabundantArecaceaespecies,AttaleaspeciosaMart. andOenocarpusbatauaMart.
Eachspecieshasbeentreatedbyconsideringitsgeneralfeatures,majorconstituents,overallmedicinal
properties,detaileddermatologicalandskincareapplications,andanyharmfuleffects. Literature
dataonthemedicinalusesofplantsandtheirconstituentshavebeencollectedfromdifferentonline
databases,includingScopus,WebofScience,PubMed,GoogleScholar,https://clinicaltrials.gov,and
theEspacenetpatentrepository.
2. AttaleaspeciosaMart.
Family: Arecaceae;synonym: OrbignyaphalerataMart.;commonname: babassu;partsused: seeds
andfruits. INCI(InternationalNomenclatureofCosmeticIngredients)names[1]: AttaleaSpeciosa
MesocarpExtractandAttaleaSpeciosaSeedOil.
2.1. Features
Thisisapalmtreereaching30minheight. Thestemcarriesattheapexacrownoflarge,pinnated
leaves;theflowersareassembledinlarge,axillary,bendinginflorescencesupto1.5mlong;andthe
fruitsareoblongnutsofabout6cm,rustyincolorandcontainingtwotosixseeds. Thespeciesis
widespreadandeconomicallyimportant,especiallyinMaranhão,astateinnortheasternBrazil. The
fruitisexploitedasanenergysource,food,ormedicine,whiletheseedsobtainedbymanualbreaking
ofthefruitaretransformedintooil[2–4].
2.2. Constituents
The seeds contain about 65% to 68% lipids. The oil is similar to coconut oil and is composed
mainlyoftriglycerideswithmonounsaturatedandsaturatedfattyacids. Themajoroilconstituents
includelauric(about50%),myristic(20%),palmitic(11%),oleic(10%),stearic(3.5%),andlinoleic(1.5%)
acids[5]. Duetoitshighdegreeofsaturation,theoilissemi-solidat20◦C,whileitmeltscompletely
attemperaturesabove25◦Cto30◦C.
Anethanolextractoftheleaveswasreportedtocontainflavonoids,steroids,and/ortriterpenoids,
and saponins, while gas chromatography analysis showed linolenic acid as a major constituent,
followedbytheterpenecitronellolandthefattyacidslinoleic,palmitic,capric,andstearicacid[6].
2.3. Properties
PopularlyusedremediesinMaranhão, Brazil, arethefruitmesocarp, oil, andaresidueofoil
productioncalled‘borra’. Mesocarpflourisusedforgastritis,inflammation,andleucorrhea;theseed
residueisusedforwoundhealing;andtheoilisusedforwoundsandleucorrhea[7]. Inaddition,the
fruitisusedforpainandrheumatism,constipation,obesity,leukemia,andcirculation,whiletheoilis
alsousedasanantimicoticandalaxative[8]. Experimentalstudiesinvivoandontumorcelllines
havestrengthenedtheideathattheplantcouldbeusefulforvenousdysfunctionsandasanadjuvant
inantitumortreatments[9].
2.4. DermatologicandCosmeticUses
Inastudyconductedonrats,anaqueousextractofthefruithasinducedpositiveeffectsonwound
healing[10].
Theoilhasbeenknownasaskincareremedyforcenturiesbecauseitisemollientandpenetrates
easily through the skin without leaving a greasy feeling. The oil can be used in cosmetics as
an alternative to coconut oil to treat dry skin, itchiness, eczema, and various irritations. The two
main oil constituents, namely lauric and myristic acids, have a melting point that is close to body
temperature. Consequentlytheoilmeltscompletelywhencomingtocontactwithskin,thusabsorbing
heatandinducingacoolingeffectthatcorroboratesitsemollientvirtues[11,12]. Theoilisalsosuitable
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fordry,dullhairasitconfersvolumebyavoidingoilyappearance[13]. Populationsinhabitingthe
Tucuruí Lake Protected Areas in the eastern Amazon use the oil for skin infections, myiasis, and
mycosis. Inaddition, theyuseitashairmoisturizingagent, and,curiously,theoilfromthebeetle
Pachymerusnucleorumlarva,whichdevelopsinsidetheseedofthecoconut,isalsousedforthesame
purpose[4].
2.5. AdverseEffects
Anextractinwaterofthepulverizedmesocarpofthefruit,administeredtomiceatdosesofupto
3g/kgdidnotinduceharmfuleffects[14]. Moreover,noadverseeffectsareknowninhumansdueto
theuseofoilorotherproductsoftheplant.
3. CarapaguianensisAubl.
Family Meliaceae; common name: andiroba; parts used: seeds, leaves, and bark. INCI
names: CarapaGuaianensisOilPEG-8Esters,CarapaGuaianensisOilPolyglyceryl-6Esters,Carapa
GuaianensisSeedOil,andCarapaGuaianensisSeedPowder.
3.1. Features
This is a large tree reaching 30 m in height, with a cylindrical trunk and a thick, oval crown.
Thebarkisgreyorbrown,withafissuratedandscalyappearance. Theleavesareparipinnateand
alternate, withelliptic-to-lanceolateleaflets, darkgreenaboveandopaquebelow. Theflowersare
clusteredinlarge,unisexualinflorescences,andthefruitisadehiscentcapsule,droppingatmaturity
andcontainingvariousseeds[15,16].
ThespeciesgrowsbothwildandcultivatedinequatorialandtropicalzonesofSouthAmerica.
Thewoodhascommercialvalueandisknownas‘Brazilianmahogany’. Theseedsareusedtoextract
apaleyellowoilthatiseconomicallyimportantintheAmazonregion[17].
3.2. Constituents
Theseedoilisrichinessentialfattyacids,prevalentlysaturatedones,andmeltsatatemperature
of about 25 ◦C. The main components include oleic, palmitic, linoleic, myristic, and stearic fatty
acids[18],whileothercomponentsincludesqualene,stigmasterol,andcholesterol[19]. Theseedsand
otherplantportionscontainlimonoids(tetranortriterpenoids)suchasmethyl-angolensate,gedunin,
7-deacetoxy-7-oxogedunin,deacetylgedunin,6α-acetoxygedunin,andandirobin. Phragmalin-type
andmexicanolide-typelimonoids,collectivelyknownascarapanolides,havealsobeenisolatedfrom
seedsandoil[20]. Limonoidsconfertotheplantandtheoilabittertaste[21],fromwhichderives
thename‘andiroba’intheTupi-Guaranilanguage[22]. Othercompoundsincludetriterpenes(e.g.,
ursolic acid), flavonoids (naringenin), coumarins (scopoletin), benzoic acid derivatives (3,4- and
2,6-dihydroxymethylbenzoate),andlong-chainfattyacids(tetra-triacontanoic,triacontanoicacids)[23].
Flowersandleavescontainvolatilecompoundssuchasthecyclicsesquiterpenesbicyclogermacrene,
germacreneB,germacreneD,andα-humulene[24].
3.3. Properties
People in the Amazon region have been using the plant as traditional medicine for centuries.
Itsreportedusesincludebarktisanesagainstintestinalailments,parasites,andskinproblems,and,
inaddition,anoil-derivedsoapusedforitsanti-inflammatory,antimicrobic,antiarthriticeffectsandas
aninsectrepellent[25]. GuyanaPatamonapeoplemaceratedbarkinwateranduseditforeczema,
measles,andchickenpox,aninfectiousdiseasecausingmildfeverandinflamedblisters[26].
The plant anti-inflammatory properties are thought to depend on the presence of limonoids,
as testified by studies on murine models of arthritis and allergy [27,28]. Edema formation has
been inhibited by the oil in different rodent models via the impairment of signaling pathways
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triggered by histamine, bradykinin, and platelet-activating factor [29]. Other studies have shown
toxic properties of limonoids on insect larvae [30,31]. More specifically, gedunin and some of its
derivativeshavebeeninvestigatedforantimalarial,hepatoprotective,andantitumorproperties[32–34].
Anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antiallergic virtues of the oil have led to the development of
pharmaceuticalproducts[35].
3.4. DermatologicandCosmeticUses
Intraditionalmedicine,theoilisappliedtowoundsorusedformassage,asinsectrepellent,and
forskinproblemslikepsoriasis. Itisalsopopularlyusedtopreventsarcopsyllosisandpediculosis[36].
Anemulsionoftheoilandthesyntheticcorticosteroiddesonidehasbeenclinicallytestedforthe
treatmentofburns[37]. Inanotherstudy,conductedonpatientssubjectedtoinguinalhairremoval
withpulsedlight,theoilemulsionhasinducedanalgesicandanti-inflammatoryeffectscomparableto
thoseofdesonidealone[38]. Thewoundhealingactivitiesoftheethanolicextractsofleavesandbark
havebeenobservedinstudiesonrats[39,40].
Theoilisintensivelyusedinthecosmeticindustryforlotions,shampoos,creams,andsoaps[41].
Itsskincarevalueismainlyduetotheabundantpresenceoflinoleicacid,knowntobeinvolvedinthe
maintenanceoftheepidermallayer. Theoilisemollient,hydrating,firming,andrejuvenatingandhas
alenitiveeffectonirritatedskinduetothepresenceoflimonoids. Itcanbealsousedasatonicbalm
forhair[42].
In a study focused on the oil mechanism of action, the inhibition of glucose-6-phosphate
dehydrogenase,whichnormallypromotesfibroblastconversiontoadipocytes,hasbeeninterpretedas
apotentialanti-celluliteeffect[43]. Thedepigmentingandanti-wrinklepropertiesoftheoilhavealso
beendescribed[44].
3.5. AdverseEffects
Studiesonthesystemictoxicityoftheoilhavebeenconductedonmiceandrats,revealingno
disturbingeffects,withtheexceptionofslightincrementsofliverweightandalanineaminotransferase
plasmalevels[19,45,46].
4. EperuafalcataAubl.
Family Fabaceae, common name: wallaba, parts used: bark. INCI names: Eperua Falcata
BarkExtract.
4.1. Features
Thisisafastgrowingtreethatcanreachaheightof40m. Theleavesareparipinnatewithfalcate
leaflets. Theflowersareclusteredinreclininginflorescences,andthefruitsarefalcatepods,hanging
fromalongpeduncle,recallingthebladeofasword. Duetotheirtypicalaspect,thefruitsarecalled
‘eperu’bynatives,meaning‘sabersword’increolelanguage. Thefruitsundergoexplosivedehiscence
atripening,throwingseedstodistancesoftensofmeters.
ThespeciesisnativefromGuyanaandneighbouringregionsofBrazil,Venezuela,andSuriname.
Itgrowsonsandy,drainedgroundspoorinnutrients. InGuyana,itisamainarborealplant,forming
so-called‘wallabaforests’,andbeingexploitedasconstructiontimber[47].
4.2. Constituents
Thewoodcontainsresinoussubstances,fromwhichdifferentcompoundshavebeenisolated,
includingthediterpeneseperuicacidandcativicacid(labd-7-en-15-oicacid)[48]. Othercompounds
isolatedfromthewoodaretheflavonol(-)-dihydrokempferol;theglycosylated3-hyroxyflavanones
engeletin,neoengeletin,andastilbin;theflavan-3-olscatechin,epicatechin,and3-(4-hydroxybenzoyl)-
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epicatechin (wallaba epicatechin); the phenolics p-hydroxybenzoic, gallic, and ellagic acids; and
proanthocyanidins[49].
4.3. Properties
Thebarkandwoodresinaretraditionallyusedbyindigenouspopulationsfortoothache,wounds,
andarticularpain. Thewoodresinisalsoanantimycoticandinsectrepellent[48].
4.4. DermatologicandCosmeticUses
Traditional uses of the plant have inspired scientific research aimed at exploring its
anti-inflammatoryeffectsontheskin. Thesestudieshaveconcernedabarkaqueousextractcontaining
proanthocyanidins and flavonoids such as astilbin and engeletin and have been addressed to
mechanisms of neuroinflammation mediated by nociceptive terminals. Observed effects include
the prevention of pro-inflammatory peptides and cytokines release through the inhibition of the
NF-kBpathwayincutaneousnociceptorsandkeratinocytes. Ithasalsobeenfoundthatastilbinand
engeletinsuppressinflammatoryprocessesinducedbyUVraysonkeratinocytes,suggestingthatthese
compoundscouldplayamainroleintheanti-inflammatoryeffectsoftheextract[50]. Basedonthese
findings,thebarkacqueousextractisusedinsoothingproductsaimedatalleviatingskinredness,
rosacea,andchronicmicro-inflammatoryprocesses[51].
4.5. AdverseEffects
Noharmfulorallergiceffectshavebeenreportedfortheplantprinciples.
5. OenocarpusbatauaMart.
Family: Arecaceae,commonname: patawa,partsused: fruit. INCInames: OenocarpusBataua
Acid,OenocarpusBatauaFruitOil,andOenocarpusBatauaSeedOil.
5.1. Features
Thisisatreepalm,upto25mtall,with10to16apicalleaves,eachthreetosevenmeterslong
andhavingabladeconsistingofabout100segmentsoneachside. Theinflorescenceisapanicleof
smallyellowflowersemergingbelowtheleafcrown. Thefruitisared-purpledrupe.
Thespeciesgrowsonsandy,acidgroundsinwetenvironments. Itisoneofthemostabundant
arboreal plants of the Amazon region and a main source of materials such as wood and leaves.
Thefruitsarealsowidelyusedasfood,cosmetics,andmedicine. Fatextractedbyboilingthefruitsand
collectingthesupernatantisusedforpreparingamilk-likebeveragecalled‘chicha’inEcuador,‘vino
deseje’inVenezuela,and‘vinhodepatauá’elsewhere. Thisdrinkisanimportantsourceofcalories
andproteinintheindigenousdiet[52]. Fruitscontain30%lipids(dryweight)thatcanbeconvertedby
coldpressureintoyellow-greenishoil,similartooliveoil,whichisusedasfoodandcosmetics. Also,
inFrenchGuianaandPeru,smalllocalindustriesproduceice-creamwiththepalmmesocarp[53,54].
5.2. Constituents
Themostabundantoilconstituentistheω-9oleicacid,followedbypalmiticacid. Othermajor
fattyacidsincludestearic,linoleic,arachidic,pentadecanoic,andα-linolenicacids.Thenon-saponifiable
fraction comprises various sterols such as β-sitosterol, ∆5-avenasterol, stigmasterol, campesterol,
campestanol,andcholesteroland,inaddition,carotenoids,mainlyβ-carotene,andtocopherols,mainly
α-tocopherol[55,56].
The leaf and root extracts contain hydroxycinnamic acids such as caffeoylquinic and
caffeoylshikimicacidsandC-glycosylflavones[57]. Stilbeneanditsderivative,piceatannol,havebeen
isolatedfromamethanolicextractofthefruitpulp[58].
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5.3. Properties
The fruit pulp is a traditional, multi-purpose remedy against alopecia, cough, bronchitis,
tuberculosis,andmalaria[56].
5.4. DermatologicandCosmeticUses
PeopleintheAmazonregionusetheoilasahairtonicagainstdandruff,allegedlyowingtoits
antibacterialandantimycoticproperties. Moreover,theoilconfersstrengthandbrightnesstohair[59].
Following its popularity in the regions of origin, the oil has been introduced in the cosmetic
industry. Topicalapplicationsinducehydrating,thickening,andelasticizingeffects,rendertheskin
smoothandsilky, andresultinarapidpenetrationthatavoidsagreasyfeeling. Overall, theoilis
anantiageagentandprotectstheskinfromharmfulexterioragents,possiblyduetoitshighcontents
of ω-9 fatty acids, vitamin E (tocopherols), and vitamin A (retinoids). The oil can be also used as
avehicleforthetransdermaldeliveryoflipophilicactiveprinciplessuchastestosterone[60].
5.5. AdverseEffects
Nodamagingeffectsareknownfollowingtopicalapplicationoftheoil.
6. QuassiaamaraL.
Family: Simaroubaceae, common name: amargo, parts used: wood and bark. INCI names:
QuassiaAmaraWood,QuassiaAmaraWoodExtract,QuassiaAmaraWoodPowder,andQuassin.
6.1. Features
Thisisasmall,evergreentree,fourtosixmetershigh,withasmooth,grayishbark. Theleaves
arealternateandimparipinnate,withoblong,acuminateleaflets,havingwingedrachisandreddish
veins. Theflowersareborneinracemesandhavefivereddish,spirallytwistedpetals. Thefruitis
anaggregateoffiveobovate-ellipticdrupes,attachedtoared,fleshyreceptacleandcontainingasingle
seedeach[26].
The species is native to Guiana and northern Brazil but is also found in Venezuela, Colombia,
Argentina,Panama,andMexico.Itgrowsinwetforestsatelevationsnotexceeding500mabovesealevel.
Theplantisusedasanherbalremedyforthepresenceofbitterprinciples. ThespeciesPicrasma
excelsa,knownasJamaicanquassia,haspropertiessimilartothoseofQ.amara. Herbalproductsfrom
eitherspeciesarefrequentlyindistinctlycommercializedunderthenameof‘quassia’. Inadditionto
herbalingredients,Q.amaraisusedfortheproductionofflypaperandmethylatedspirits.
6.2. Constituents
The plant contains seco-triterpene-δ-lactones known as quassinoids, typical of the family
Simaroubaceae.Themajorquassinoidsarequassin,neoquassin,18-hydroxyquassin,simalikalactoneD,
picrasin,andquassimarin. MostquassinoidshaveaC-20structure,butsimalikalactoneDhasaC-25
structureandquassimarinhasaC-27structure[61,62]. Theplantalsocontainsindolicalkaloidsofthe
β-carbolinefamilysuchas1-vinyl-4,8-dimethoxy-β-carboline,1-methoxycarbonyl-β-carboline,and
3-methylcanthine-2,6-dione[63].
6.3. Properties
Quassinoidsareresponsibleformostoftheplant’sbiologicalpropertiesanditsstrongbittertaste.
InsouthernAmerica,theplantisusedasantimalarialandfebrifugesubstance,asanalternativeto
quinineroot.Itisalsousedasanappetizeranddigestiveduetoitsbitterprinciplesandasaninsecticide
andanantiparasitesubstance,anditisreportedinthePharmacopeiasofdifferentcountries[64].
Antimalarialpropertieshavebeeninvestigatedonanimalmodels,whileinvitrostudieshave
revealedcytotoxicactivityofsimalikalactoneDandEonchloroquine-resistantPlasmodiumfalciparum
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strains[65–67]. Inaddition, variousinvitroandinvivostudieshaveshownantiviral, insecticidal,
anti-inflammatory,gastroprotective,antidiabetic,andantifertilityactivitiesofquassinoids[68–73].
β-CarbolinealkaloidsareawidefamilyofcompoundsknownasDNAintercalatingagentsand
inhibitorsofcyclin-dependentkinases,topoisomerasesandmonoamino-oxydases. Thesecompounds
alsointeractwithbenzodiazepineandserotoninreceptors,inducingsedativeandanxiolyticeffects[63].
6.4. DermatologicandCosmeticUses
Theinfusionisusedasatopictreatmentforskinparasiteslikescabiesandlice,whileclinical
investigationshaveshownprophylacticeffectsratherthaninsecticideactivity[74,75]. Thesedataare
inagreementwithstudiesonthemechanismofactionofplantextracts, showingtheinhibitionof
chitinproductionthatpreventslouseeggadhesiontohairs[76].
Antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties have been exploited against facial seborrheic
dermatitis in a randomized, double-blind study on human patients [77]. Wood and bark extracts
are generally used in cosmetics as conditioning and invigorating agents, while antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory,andanti-agingpropertieshavealsobeenreported[78]. Differentwoodextracts
havebeenproposedaseitherskincollagenstimulantsorhairtonics[79,80].
6.5. AdverseEffects
Plantderivativesandquassinoidsaregenerallywelltoleratedbyhumansandlaboratoryanimals.
Negativeeffectsobservedonratfertilityarereversibleandnotaccompaniedbydamagetootherbody
systems[70]. TheplanthasbeenapprovedasafoodsupplementbytheEUandindicatedasGenerally
RecognizedasSafe(GRAS)bytheUSFDA.
7. ConclusionsandPerspectives
WehaveselectedagroupofarborealspeciesthataremajorelementsoftheAmazonlandscapeand
culture,beingintensivelyutilizedinthisregionandnearbyareas. Theseplantsarevaluablesourcesof
oilandotherproducts,buttheirpotentialstogeneratedrugshavebeeninvestigatedtoalimitedextent.
Evenlessexploredisthepossibilityoffindingapplicationsfordermatologicandcosmeticproblems.
Theuseoftheseproductsonskinistoalargeextentinspiredbyempiricknowledge,mostlyderived
fromthetraditionalpracticesofAmazonianpeople(Table1).
Table 1. Reported Effects on Skin and Hair of Phytocomplexes and Active Principles from
AmazonianPlants.
Species Phytocomplexes Phytochemicals Effects Ref.
Fruitextract Woundhealing [10]
Seedoil, Soothing,emollient, [12]
Attaleaspeciosa
Lauricacid,
Hydrating,hairvolumizing [11]
myristicacid
Woundhealing,insectrepellent,
Seedoil [36]
anti-psoriasis
Emollient,hydrating,firming,
Seedoil [42]
depigmenting,rejuvenating
Glucose-6-phosphate
Seedoil [43]
Carapaguianensis dehydrogenaseinhibition
Seedoil/desonide Burnhealing,analgesic,
[37,38]
emulsion anti-inflammatory
Leafethanolic
Woundhealing [39,40]
extract
Limonoids Lenitive [42]
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Table1.cont.
Species Phytocomplexes Phytochemicals Effects Ref.
Barkaqueous Preventionofneuroinflammation
[50]
extract throughNF-KBinhibition
Barkaqueous
Eperuafalcata Lenitive,soothing,anti-rosacea [51]
extract
Suppressionofinflammation
Astilbin,engeletin [50]
inducedbyUV
Antibacterial,antimycotic,
Fruitoil [59]
anti-dandruff
Oenocarpusbataua
Hydrating,thickening,
Fruitoil [60]
elasticizing
Woodinfusion Anti-parasites,scabies,lice [74,75]
Woodandbark Inhibitionoflousechitin
[76]
extract production
Quassiaamara Woodandbark
Anti-seborrheicdermatitis [77]
extract
Antioxidant,anti-inflammatory,
Woodandbark
anti-aging,collagenstimulant, [78–80]
extract
hairtonic
However, a starting point for the achievement of a scientific basis for skin care and health
applications can derive from phytochemical knowledge. Various classes of molecules have been
isolated that are potentially interesting in this sense such as the limonoids of C. guianensis, the
diterpenesandflavanonolsofE.falcata,andthequassinoidsofQ.amara. Inaddition,theabundant
lipidfractionsofA.speciosa,C.guianensis,andO.bataua,havepeculiarcompositions,especiallyinthe
non-saponifiablefraction,thatcouldprovideinterestingbioactivemolecules. Afewpiecesofliterature
havehighlightedtheimportanceofthesecompoundsforthedevelopmentofskincareapplications,
providingexamplesforphytosterols[81],limonoids[82],astilbin,andengeletin[83,84].However,such
acomplexofknowledgeisthetipofanicebergofhithertoundiscoveredbioactivitiesandconstituents
inthephytocomplexesoftheseplantspecies.
Inconclusion,thespeciesexaminedinthissurveyarepromisingsourcesofbioactivecompounds
for skin care and health applications. Investigations directed to expand the knowledge about
their properties and bioactive agents will give added value to the exploitation of forest resources,
possibly helping to orient their utilization toward non-destructive production chains. Following
ethicalprinciplesandeco-sustainableaims,theAmazon’sbiodiversitycouldbecomeaplatformfor
technologicalresearchanddevelopmentofnewcosmeticingredientsandproducts.
Acknowledgments:ThisworkhasbeenfinanciallysupportedbyHelanCosmesidiLaboratorioS.r.l.,Casella,Italy.
ConflictsofInterest:Theauthorsdeclarenoconflictofinterest.
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