Lonely Planet Andalucía (Travel Guide)

395 Pages·2016·22.55 MB·English

by  Isabella Noble

P
D
F
Andalucía
PDF ebook
Edition 8th Edition
Release Date Jan 2016
Pages 392
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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to
ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.
4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
1
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
3
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
4
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Andalucía
Córdoba Jaén
Province Province
Huelva & (p195) (p219)
Sevilla
Provinces
(p79) ^#Seville
(p48) Granada Almería
Province Province
Málaga (p246) (p285)
Province
Cádiz
(p156)
Province &
Gibraltar
(p108)
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Isabella Noble, John Noble,
Josephine Quintero, Brendan Sainsbury
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to SEVILLE . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Grazalema . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Andalucía . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Zahara de la Sierra . . . . . 136
Andalucía Map . . . . . . . . . .6 HUELVA & SEVILLA Parque Natural Sierra
PROVINCES . . . . . . . . 79 de Grazalema . . . . . . . . . . 137
Andalucía’s Top 17 . . . . . . .8
Olvera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Huelva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18 Costa de la Luz
Lugares Colombinos . . .84 & the Southeast . . . . . . 139
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20
La Rábida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Vejer de la Frontera . . . . . 139
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Palos de la Frontera . . . . . . 84 Los Caños de Meca . . . . . 141
Month by Month . . . . . . . 23 Moguer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Zahara de los Atunes . . . . 142
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Huelva’s Tarifa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Costa de la Luz . . . . . . . . 86 Bolonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Eat Like a Local . . . . . . .30 Flecha del Rompido . . . . . . 86
Parque Natural Los
Outdoor Activities . . . . . 36 Isla Cristina . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Alcornocales . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Ayamonte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Gibraltar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Travel with Children . . . . . 41
East of Huelva . . . . . . . . . 87
Regions at a Glance . . . . 44 MÁLAGA
Matalascañas . . . . . . . . . . . 87
PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 156
Parque Nacional
de Doñana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Málaga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
ALAN COPSON / GETTY IMAGES © ENMASliro ieanRrrcaotreahscn íddooaeef . . . .ARH . .riuo . .ae . .tcil . .env . .nta . .oa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9999902325 MCT&FEouso aBrtesrernebtepgnameoia lrdnloloamael .l ial . .n á . . . oSd . . .soe . . . nl . . . . a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111117777700325
Sevilla Province . . . . . . .98
Mijas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Santiponce . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
The Interior . . . . . . . . . . 178
Carmona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Ronda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Osuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Serranía de Ronda . . . . . . 184
FERIA DE ABRIL, Écija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
SEVILLE P70 Ardales & El Chorro . . . . . 185
Parque Natural Sierra
Antequera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Norte de Sevilla . . . . . . . . 105
Paraje Natural Torcal
JOCHEM D W &CÁ GDIBIZR PARLOTAVRIN .C . .E . . 108 dLdaeeg APuninetade rqdaue . e .Fr .ua .e . . n . .t . .e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118898
IJNANDS / GETTY IM CTJehárede izSz . dh .ee . r .lar .y F . rT .or .in .at .ne .gra .l .e . . . . . . . . . . . .111011989 ELNaae srAjtax .o a .rf .q M .u .íáa .l . . a . .g . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111889991
AGES © Edle P Suaenrttao M aría . . . . . . . . . 125 CÓRDOBA
Sanlúcar PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 195
de Barrameda . . . . . . . . . . 129
Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . .198
The White Towns . . . . . . . 131
HORSE RIDING, TARIFA P143 Southern
Arcos de la Frontera . . . . 131 Córdoba Province . . . . . . 211
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Baena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 ALMERÍA Andalucía
Parque Natural PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 285 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Sierras Subbéticas . . . . . . 211 Almería . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Western
North of Almería . . . . . . 294 Andalucian
Córdoba Province . . . . . 216
Desierto de Tabernas . . . 294 Architecture . . . . . . . . .325
Almodóvar del Río . . . . . . 216
Níjar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Landscape & Wildlife . . . 332
Parque Natural Sierra
de Hornachuelos . . . . . . . 216 Las Alpujarras Flamenco . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
de Almería . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Laujar de Andarax . . . . . . 297 Andalucian Arts . . . . . .344
JAÉN PROVINCE . . . 219
Costa de Almería . . . . . 298 Bullfighting . . . . . . . . . . 348
Jaén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222 Parque Natural de
Northwest Cabo de Gata-Níjar . . . . . 298 Andalucian Kitchen . . . .351
Jaén Province . . . . . . . .225 Mojácar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
Desfiladero de Los Vélez . . . . . . . . . . . .307 SURVIVAL
Despeñaperros
& Santa Elena . . . . . . . . . . 225 GUIDE
Parque Natural Sierra
de Andújar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .358
Eastern Jaén
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Baeza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 373
Úbeda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
Cazorla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . . 391
Parque Natural Sierras
de Cazorla, Segura
y Las Villas . . . . . . . . . . . . .239
GRANADA
PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 246
Granada . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
La Vega
& El Altiplano . . . . . . . . 271 SPECIAL FEATURES
Guadix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
Seville Cathedral
Sierra Nevada
3D Illustration . . . . . . . . . 52
& Las Alpujarras . . . . . . 272
Sierra Nevada . . . . . . . . . . 273 Flamenco
Colour Feature . . . . . . . . 62
Las Alpujarras . . . . . . . . . . 275
Mezquita
Costa Tropical . . . . . . . . 282
3D Illustration . . . . . . . .200
Salobreña . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
Teterías & Hammams
Almuñécar
Colour Feature . . . . . . .244
& La Herradura . . . . . . . . . 283
Alhambra
3D Illustration . . . . . . . . 252
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to
Andalucía
The scent of orange blossom, the thrash
of a flamenco guitar, the glimpse of a
white village perched spectacularly atop
a crag: memories of Andalucía stay with
you like collected souvenirs.
The Essence of Spain Wild Andalucía
Immortalised in operas and vividly depicted It takes more than a few thirsty Costa del
in 19th-century artworks, Andalucía often Sol golf courses to steamroller Andalucía’s
acts as a synonym for Spain as a whole: a diverse ecology. Significant pockets of the
sun-dappled, fiesta-loving land of guitar- region’s southern coast remain relatively un-
wielding troubadours, reckless bullfighters, blemished, while inland you’ll stumble into
feisty operatic heroines and roguish Roma bucolic, agriculturally dependent villages
singers wailing sad laments. While this sim- where life doesn’t seem to have changed
plistic portrait might be outdated and overly much since playwright Federico Lorca en-
romantic, it carries an element of truth. visioned Bodas de sangre (Blood Wedding).
Andalucía, despite creeping modernisation, Twenty percent of Andalucía’s land is shel-
remains a spirited and passionate place tered in natural and national parks, and the
where the atmosphere – rather like a good protective measures are showing dividends.
flamenco performance – creeps up and taps The Iberian lynx is no longer impossibly
you on the shoulder when you least expect it. elusive, while the handsome ibex is positively
flourishing. Another laudable reclamation
A Cultural Marinade project is the region’s vía verdes, old railway
Part of the fascination Andalucía holds for lines reborn as biking and hiking greenways.
people springs from its peculiar history. For
Duende
eight centuries the region sat on a porous
frontier between two different faiths and One of Andalucía’s most intriguing attrac-
ideologies, Christianity and Islam. Left to fer- tions is the notion of duende, the elusive spirit
ment like a barrel of the bone-dry local sher- that douses much of Spanish art, especially
ry, the ongoing cross-fertilisation has thrown flamenco. Duende loosely translates as a
up a slew of cultural colossi: ancient mosques moment of heightened emotion experienced
transformed into churches; vast palace com- during an artistic performance, and it can be
plexes replete with stucco; a cuisine infused soulfully evoked in Andalucía if you mingle
with dashes of North African spices; and a in the right places. Seek it out in a Lorca play
chain of lofty white towns that dominates the at a municipal theatre, an organ recital in a
arid, craggy landscape, from the tightly knot- Gothic church, the hit-or-miss spontaneity of
ted lanes of Granada’s Albayzín to the hilltop a flamenco peña (club) or the remarkable art
settlements of Cádiz province. renaissance currently gripping Málaga.
5
ALAN COPSON / GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Andalucía
By Brendan Sainsbury, Author
Andalucía is where I met my wife, developed an incurable infatuation with flamenco and
worked for several halcyon seasons as a travel guide. No small wonder that the region ranks
so highly in my hit parade of ‘favourite places on the planet’. Its crowning glory for me will
always be Granada, though I also admire Seville and Málaga, and have a typically British af-
fection for Gibraltar. For rural satisfaction, I love running along the region’s vía verdes, trying
to keep up with the cyclists.
For more about our authors, see page 392
Above: Albayzín neighbourhood (p256), Granada
ATEJO 333333333ParqueN3333atural Valenciade Cáceres
daSerrade Alcántara
SãoMamede
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2000m #] ^#Mérida Western and Islamic architecture
1500m Badajoz spanning 1000 years (p198)
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0100m Mudéjar palace (p48) EXTSRPEAMAINDURA EuSfeamntiaa#\
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6° MOROCCO 5°W
Tarifa Ronda
Andalucía’s windsurfing and Clifftop town in brawny
kitesurfing capital (p142) mountain setting (p178)
W
7°
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Parque Natural de Cabo
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SEA
ROAD DISTANCES (km)
Note: Distances 36°N
Cádiz 126 are approximate
Málaga 209 240
Granada
Córdoba 143 261 165
Towering Moorish
citadel, the Alhambra (p247) Jaén 246 330 203 108
Granada 252 296 125 160 93
Málaga Almería 410 463 207 316 220 162
Uncover an art renaissance in W
Picasso's birth ciW°4ty (p157) W°3 Melilla Seville Cádiz Málaga°2 Córdoba Jaén Granada
#]