Table Of ContentLear n to
L
E
A
R Stitch
N
T
O
S
T
I
T
C
H
B Beaded
E
A
D
E
D
J
E
W
E Jewelry
L
R
Y
Simple Stitching,
Fantastic Results
New to beadweaving? Author and
teacher Marla Salezze makes it easy
to create fun, fashionable bracelets,
pendants, necklaces, earrings, and more.
With clear instructions and colorful
illustrations, Learn to Stitch Beaded
Jewelry guides the beginner through
each project. Explore the possibilites
with nine popular bead stitches, making
pieces you’ll love to wear.
Includes:
• 50+ how-to jewelry projects, all with
complete step-by-step instructions Learn through doing with 50+ projects you'll lov e to make!
and illustrations 50+ easy-to-stitch
• Tips and tricks to guide new beaders jewelry projects
through each project
• Helpful information about tools and
supplies to get you started
S
• Inventive designs to excite beginners A
L
and experienced beaders alike EZ
Z
E
67908 $22.99
CAN $23.99
ISBN 978-1-62700-506-7
52299
9 781627 005067 0 64465 17908 4
www.JewelryandBeadingStore.com
Marla Salezze
BKS-67908-CV_1, 4.indd All Pages 6/29/18 10:34 AM
Lear n to
Stitch
Beaded
Jewelry
50+ projects you'll lov e to make!
Marla Salezze
Waukesha, Wisconsin
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Dedication
To Mom, Dad and Nick, for always reminding me how capable,
brave, and significant I am, especially when I have my doubts.
Kalmbach Books
A division of Kalmbach Media
21027 Crossroads Circle
Waukesha, Wisconsin 53186
www.JewelryAndBeadingStore.com
© 2018 Marla Salezze
All rights reserved. Except for brief excerpts for review, this book may not be reproduced in part or in
whole by electronic means or otherwise without written permission of the publisher.
Numbered step-by-step illustrations by the author. All other photography © 2018 Kalmbach Books
except where otherwise noted.
The jewelry designs in Learn to Stitch Beaded Jewelry are the copyrighted property of the author, and
they may not be taught or sold without permission. Please use them for your education and personal
enjoyment only.
Published in 2018
22 21 20 19 18 1 2 3 4 5
Manufactured in China
ISBN: 978-1-62700-506-7
EISBN: 978-1-62700-507-4
Editor: Erica Barse
Book Design: Lisa Schroeder
Technical Editor: Jane Danley Cruz
Photographer: William Zuback
Library of Congress Control Number: 2017941414
BKS-67908-00.indd 2 6/29/18 10:34 AM
contents
Introduction ................................................4
Materials and Tools .....................................5
Basic Techniques ........................................9
PEYOTE STITCH ..........................................12
All Together Leather Tassel Earrings .......................13
Once you learn Angular Aztec Bracelet ...........................................15
Polka Dot Paradise Necklace ..................................18
a handful of stitches,
SPIRAL ROPE STITCH ................................22
Winding Rivulet Bracelet .........................................23
Lively Lentil Loop Earrings ......................................26
you’ll be amazed
Sparkle Spiral with a Twist Necklace ......................29
LADDER STITCH .........................................32
at the jewelry you can
Art Deco Earrings ....................................................33
Fork in the Road Necklace ......................................36
create and wear! Chutes and Ladders Bracelet ..................................39
BRICK STITCH ..............................................43
Stepping Stone Bracelet .........................................44
Color Blocked Collar ...............................................47
Coiled Hoop Earrings ..............................................50
HERRINGBONE STITCH ...........................53
Confetti Bracelet .....................................................54
Woven Web Earrings ...............................................58
Colonnade Chains Necklace ...................................62
NETTING STITCH .......................................66
Luminous Lattice Bangle .........................................67
Dew Drop Lariat ......................................................71
Quirky Quilted Drop Earrings ..................................74
SQUARE STITCH .........................................77
Garden Party Bracelet .............................................78
Circlet Collar ............................................................81
Hula Hoop Earrings .................................................85
RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE .............................88
Cobblestone Cuff ....................................................89
Pearled Floret Earrings ............................................92
RAW Ruffled Collar ..................................................95
BEAD EMBROIDERY .................................98
Doodle Cuff .............................................................99
Radiant Rivoli Earrings ...........................................103
Quirky Quilted Drop
Bead Embroidered Button Pendant .....................106
Earrings, p. 74
Acknowledgments ................................110
About the Author .................................111
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Introduction
One of the things I love most about beading is its versatility. After you have learned a handful
of stitches, the sky is the limit with the jewelry you can create and make. A unique bead color
or shape can turn a basic beadweaving stitch into a truly spectacular piece of jewelry.
My goal in writing this book was to introduce you to some of my favorite stitches and new
ways to use those stitches to create stunning beaded jewelry. Whether you are brand new to
beadweaving, ready to take your beginner skills to the next level, or an experienced beader
looking for a refresh on a classic stitch, the projects in this book will propel you forward on
your bead journey.
I’ve organized each chapter in the book by type of stitch, and I’ve explored nine stitches
to offer you 27 innovative beaded jewelry projects. Each chapter contains three projects:
a necklace, bracelet, and earrings. I also offer an alternative design option for each project
so you can truly customize your beaded jewelry to your personal style preference. The
alternative design options build off the techniques from the main project, and include
additional skills, stitches, and embellishments to further your beading repertoire.
You can certainly flip through the book and make a project that speaks to you—or dive into a
specific chapter with a stitch you love. However, if a beadweaving stitch is brand-new to you,
I encourage you to begin with the first project in that particular stitch’s chapter, as it will lay
the foundation for weaving that stitch. All other projects in each chapter build from the first
project, so a thorough understanding of the basic stitch from that project will give you the
skills and confidence you need to successfully create the other projects in that chapter.
You will find my personal tried-and-true tips and techniques sprinkled throughout the pages
of this book. My goal was to share with you as much of my beading knowledge as possible
for you to use as a reference. These tips will provide assistance and guidance as you bead.
My aspiration for this book is to make you fall in love with bead weaving as much as I have,
so I truly hope you enjoy learning the stitches I’ve presented and have fun beading the
projects I created. You might find you like some stitches better than others—I’ll admit,
I have my favorites, too—but regardless of how you use this book, I hope it inspires your
own unique beadweaving exploration.
Let it bead,
Marla
Pearled Floret Earrings
design option, p. 92
4
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Materials
and Tools
seed beads
Beads
As you’ll soon discover, beads come in a wide variety of
sizes, shapes, materials, colors, and finishes. The projects
in this book include glass seed beads in size 150, 110, 80,
and 60; glass cylinder beads in size 110 and 100; and some
varying sized beads in various shapes. The most important
cylinder beads
thing to note about bead sizes is the larger the number size,
the smaller the bead. For example, a 150 seed bead is small
and a 60 seed bead is significantly larger.
Seed beads are round, and they are available in a variety of
sizes, colors, and finishes. Cylinder beads, often referred
to by the brand name Delica, are are more rectangular, or
cylinder-shaped, than seed beads, but are also available in a
variety of sizes, colors and finishes.
Druk beads are larger round glass beads. Crystals are glass
beads with many facets (you will find Swarovski and Czech drop beads
crystals, among other options). Crystals may be round,
bicone (a three-dimensional diamond shape), or rondelle
(a round, squat shape). Crystal pearls are man-made glass
pearls that are perfectly round and great for stitching.
Fire-polished beads are faceted, oblong glass beads.
Drop beads are shaped like teardrops and come in multiple
sizes. Two-hole beads have two stitching holes. There are
a ton of different shapes available—I’ve used Brick beads in bicone crystals
this book.
tip
• When I fi nd a color or fi nish on a bead I really love,
I will purchase the same bead in a variety of sizes.
Brick beads
crystal pearls
5
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ccrriimmpp bbeeaaddss
crimp covers
earring findings
Findings and components
Crimp beads are small metal beads designed to be
crimped with crimping pliers on beading wire to secure
beads on a piece of jewelry. Crimp beads are available in
a variety of sizes and metal finishes and are either round or
rectangular in shape. The size needed is usually determined
by the beading wire being used. Crimp covers are small
metal beads that are closed over a crimp bead to hide the
toggle clasp lobster clasp S-hook clasp crimped crimp bead and provide a decorative element.
Using crimp covers is a great way to elevate the finished
look of a handmade piece of jewelry.
You will use clasps to finish your jewelry, and they are
available in multiple sizes and finishes. Always choose a
clasp that is secure with a finish that will last. All clasps serve
the same purpose of securing the beaded jewelry to a
neck or wrist. Consider which clasp style will look best with
a particular piece of jewelry. Choose from lobster clasps,
multi-strand bar clasps (the spring-loaded versions are more
secure and reliable then the magnetic ones), toggle and bar
clasps, S-hooks, and magnetic clasps. I like to attach clasps
jump rings to my beadwork with a jump ring so the clasp can easily be
changed out if it breaks or does not work properly.
Jump rings are small metal wire circles that are used to
connect findings to beadwork and other components.
They are available in a variety of sizes and finishes. I used
unsoldered rings in this book, which means they can be
opened and closed. Accu-guards are little metal horseshoe-
shaped metal components that are threaded through with
Accu-guards
beading wire when bead stringing. These findings protect
the beading wire from wear and tear that might lead to
fraying or breaking.
Buttons come with pre-drilled holes in the center or a shank
on the bottom. We will use buttons as clasps for some of
the projects in this book and as a decorative component to
bead around. Rivolis are crystal stones with detailed facet-
ing that comes to a beveled point at the top and bottom.
6
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Materials
My favorite type of thread to use is a braided beading
thread. I like this type of thread because of its durability. It
is available in different weight sizes; the smaller the pound
weight, the thinner the thread. The size and material of
your beads will dictate which weight thread is best for that
project. There is extremely limited color selection; however,
I have found the smoke-colored thread works well with most
beads, as it easily blends in. With translucent or transparent
beads and/or very light-colored beads, use crystal-colored
thread. Brands include Fireline, One G, and Wildfire.
Beading wireis a type of stringing material used for beading wire
beading. It comes in varying diameters and string counts.
It is used to string beads to make a necklace or bracelet.
The specific type of beading wire needed for a project
is indicated in the supply list for that particular project.
Craft wire is a base metal wire available in a variety of
finishes and gauges. The gauge number indicates the
wire’s thickness (large gauge = thin wire).
Tools
Beading needles come in a variety of sizes and lengths.
Just like with beads, the larger the size, the smaller the
needle. Depending upon which size beads you are using
helps determine which size needle is best to bead with.
Each project indicates which needle size is preferable to
complete that particular project. Using a long or short
needle is mostly a personal preference, however, sometimes
the length of the needle is dictated by the type of bead
stitch and/or beading supplies being used and it’s helpful
to have both lengths and multiple sizes readily available
while beading. beading needles
I like to have a few pairs of scissors on hand when
beading—each pair solely designated for a specific
purpose. I use an inexpensive pair to cut my thread,
since Fireline is so strong, it will dull the blade. I also use
a separate, sharp pair of scissors to cut fabric, such as a
beading foundation and ultrasuede.
craft wire
thread
7
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caliper
Needle chainnose pliers are used to open and close jump
rings, to hold materials in place, to pull needles through
beadwork, and to remove unwanted beads. Roundnose
pliers are used to make wire loops. Wire cutters trim wire
to the desired length. Crimping pliers are used to put
a crimp on a crimp bead strung on beading wire. Using
crimping pliers is a two-step process dictated by the two
small spaces on the edge of the pliers. The first space
flattens the crimp bead, and the second folds it over
on itself.
A thread catcher is a place to put your discarded thread
ends, broken beads, and other miscellaneous material
to keep your bead surface clear and organized. A thread
zapper is a handy accessory to use when ending thread
within beadwork. It is a great tool because it burns the
thread off, causing the thread to curl into itself and retreat
invisibly into the beadwork. You must be careful not to
accidentally burn thread not intended to be ended with this
tool. A needle puller is a little rubber tube or thin piece of
rubber that grabs around the needle and helps to pull it
beading board
through the beadwork. It is gentler to use than pliers, with
less risk of breaking any beads.
A retractable ruler is very helpful measuring device to keep
handy while beading so you can measure your beadwork
and determine the finished and desired length of a piece.
A bead reamer is a dull, needle-like tool that can be used
to make a bead hole larger by gently applying pressure
in a bead’s exiting hole. Use a caliper when shopping for
roundnose pliers
bead supplies. It determines the width and length of beads
and buttons, etc. in millimeters to help you determine if
the supplies are correct for the project you are beading.
Small photo cases are inexpensive little plastic boxes with
a snap lid. They are the perfect size to store individual bead
projects and supplies.
A bead mat or beading board is a work surface for your
beadwork. There are many options available on the market
today, so choosing one is a complete personal preference.
Look for a mat or board with a soft surface in a light color
so you can easily see and pick up your beads. I like a
bead mat with a ledge all around it so I can move the mat
without losing any beads. Other things to consider include
portability (something with a lid for travel or a sticky surface
so beads do not roll around while moving) and organization
needle chainnose pliers (something with dividers or inserts). Little triangle trays are
the perfect tool for scooping and sorting beads on your
work surface.
8
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Basic
Techniques
Stop bead
A stop bead is a temporary bead added to your thread at the very beginning of any
beadwork to keep newly added beads on your thread and to help maintain even tension
throughout the first few rows of beading—which are often the most challenging. It gets
removed before the beadwork is finished. To add a stop bead to your thread, pick up a
bead (I use an 80 seed bead in a different color than the beads in my current project. That
way, there is no doubt which bead is the stop bead), and slide it down the thread, leaving
a 6–8 in. (15–20cm) tail. Sew through the bead again in the same direction to keep it from
moving. You might find it helpful to sew through the bead a few times to keep it in place.
Knots
Square knot
Cross the left-hand end of the thread over the right, and bring it under and back up.
Cross the end that is now on the right over the left, go through the loop, and pull both
ends to tighten.
Half-hitch knot
Pass the needle under the thread path between two beads. A loop will form as you pull the
thread through. Cross back over the thread between the beads, sew through the loop and
pull gently to draw the knot into the beadwork. To make a more secure half-hitch knot, I like
to sew through my loop twice before pulling it closed.
Adding thread
I like to add new thread when I have about 6–8 in. (15–20cm) of my current working thread
left. Cut a new piece of thread and thread it on a needle. Tie an overhand knot around an
existing thread path within the beadwork, leaving a tail of about 6–8 in. (15–20cm). Sew
through a few beads in the direction of where the new thread needs to be added, following Old thread
the existing thread path of the beadwork, and tie two half-hitch knots. Continue sewing
through beads and tying half-hitch knots through about an inch of beadwork until the new
thread exits the same bead as the remaining old thread. Tie an overhand knot with the old
thread and the new thread to maintain tension. Begin working with the new thread.
Ending thread
Similarly to how thread is added, sew through a few beads with the thread you wish to end,
following the existing thread path of the beadwork, and tie two half-hitch knots. Continue
sewing through beads and tying half-hitch knots through about an inch of beadwork. Once
you are confident the thread is secure, pull it against the beadwork and cut it (or use a
thread zapper).
9
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