LCA benchmarking study on textiles made of cotton, polyester, nylon, acryl, or elastane

26 Pages·2014·0.77 MB·English

IntJLifeCycleAssess(2014)19:331–356
DOI10.1007/s11367-013-0626-9
LIFECYCLEIMPACTASSESSMENT(LCIA)
LCA benchmarking study on textiles made of cotton,
polyester, nylon, acryl, or elastane
NataschaM.vanderVelden&MartinK.Patel&
JoostG.Vogtländer
Received:23October2012/Accepted:5July2013/Publishedonline:4September2013
#Springer-VerlagBerlinHeidelberg2013
Abstract nylon, and cotton. The use phase has less relative impact
Purpose Thepurposeofthispaperistoprovideanimproved thanitissuggestedintheclassicalliterature.
(up-to-date)insightintotheenvironmentalburdenoftextiles Conclusions The impact of spinning and weaving is rela-
made of the base materials cotton, polyester (PET), nylon, tivelyhigh(foryarnthicknessesoflessthan100dtex),and
acryl, and elastane. The research question is: Which base fromtheenvironmentalpointofview,knittingisbetterthan
materialandwhichlifecyclestage(cradle-to-gateaswellas weaving.LCAontextilescanonlybeaccuratewhentheyarn
cradle-to-grave)havethebiggestimpactontheenvironment? thickness is specified. In case the functional unit also indi-
Methods Lifecycleinventory(LCI)dataarecollectedfrom catesthefabricpersquaremeter,thedensitymustbeknown.
the literature, life cycle assessment (LCA) databases, and LCA results of textile products over the whole value chain
emission registration database of the Dutch government, as are case dependent, especially when dyeing and finishing
wellascommunicationswithbothmanufacturingcompanies processes and the use phase and end-of-life are included in
ofproductionequipment andtextilecompanies. Theoutput the analysis. Further LCI data studies on textiles and gar-
ofthecalculationsispresentedinfoursingleindicators:Eco- ments are urgently needed to lower the uncertainties in
costs 2012 (a prevention-based indicator), CO equivalent contemporaryLCAoftextilematerialsandproducts.
2
(carbon footprint), cumulative energy demand (CED), and
ReCiPe(adamage-basedindicator).
Keywords Carbondioxide(CO ) .Clothing .Eco-costs .
Results and discussion From an analysis of the data, it be- 2
Fibers .Spinning .Textile .Usephase .Weaving
comes clear that the environmental burden is not only a
function of the base materials (cotton, PET, nylon, acryl,
and elastane) but also of the thickness of the yarn (for this
research,therangeof50–500dtexisexamined).Theauthors 1Introduction
proposethattheenvironmentalburdenofspinning,weaving,
andknittingisafunctionof1/yarnsize.Thecradle-to-grave In recent years, life cycle assessment (LCA) has been in-
analysis from raw material extraction to discarded textile creasinglyadoptedby textile andapparel companies. Many
demonstrates that textiles made out of acryl and PET have actorsinthetextileandclothingchainsuchasfibermanufac-
the least impact on the environment, followed by elastane, turers(e.g.,Lenzing,Advansa,Dupont),producersofflooring
material(e.g.,InterfaceFlor,Desso,Heugaveld),fashionbrands
(united in the Sustainable Apparel Coalition), and even um-
Responsibleeditor:MarziaTraverso
brella organizations (European Commission and the Dutch
:
N.M.vanderVelden(*) J.G.Vogtländer branch organization Modint) use LCA to assess the environ-
DepartmentofDesignforSustainability,FacultyofIndustrial
mentalimpactsoftextile-relatedproducts.Inaddition,educa-
DesignEngineering,TechnicalUniversityDelft,Landbergstraat
tional textile and fashion institutes (e.g., the Amsterdam
15,2628CEDelft,TheNetherlands
e-mail:[email protected] Fashion Institute) have moved towards life cycle thinking,
pickingupthesignalsfromcompaniesandotherorganizations.
M.K.Patel
Inmanycases,LCAstudiesandthedevelopmentofLCA
CopernicusInstituteofSustainableDevelopment,Facultyof
tools on textile products are carried out by consultancy
Geosciences,UtrechtUniversity,Budapestlaan6,3584
CDUtrecht,TheNetherlands companiesorindependentresearchinstituteswhichinterpret
332 IntJLifeCycleAssess(2014)19:331–356
LCA and the International Standard Organization (ISO) (i.e.,washing clothesbythe user);however, thislacks accu-
specifications in their own way. Results are presented in ratedataontheproductionphase.
reportsoronlineandreachthepublicviamarketingdepart-
mentsorviathemedia.DespiteofthisgrowthinLCAwork, 1.2Datacollection
not many (recent) LCA studies on textile products can be
foundinscientificliterature.Consequently,therearegapsin Most of the previously mentioned sources were considered
the scientific framework for the interpretation of the previ- tobenotveryvaluableforourLCAontextilesconductedin
ously mentioned market efforts. There is not enough litera- 2011–2012because,intheprecedingperiod,companiesmay
ture available and there are no (open source) life cycle have made significant improvements on energy consump-
inventory(LCI)databasestobuildfurtherscientificresearch tion,mainlydrivenbyhighenergycosts.Firmunderpinning
upon. Nondisclosure of databases and company-related in- numerical data for this change was not transparent, but
formationmightbeduetothefactthatconfidentialityplays percentages of 2 to 3 per year are quoted. A report of the
animportantrole.Thisarticleaimstoopenupthescientific united German textile machinery manufacturers (VDMA
discussiononLCAintextiles. 2009)claimsenergyefficiencyimprovementsof15%over
the last 10 years. This figure was also quoted during a
communication with Mr. Bernard Defraye of CIRFS, the
1.1ExistingLCAstudiesontextiles EuropeanMan-MadeFibresAssociation.
An important observation is that the majority of the re-
Aliteraturesurveyandsomeinvestigationsamongexpertsin searchersdonottakeintoaccountimportanttechnicalspec-
thefieldofLCAstudiesontextilesshowedthatmostofthe ifications(e.g.,thethicknessoftheyarn)whichhaveamajor
publicly available LCA data and process data are outdated, impactonprocessingenergy,aswillbeshowninSection3.
not transparent (especially regarding system boundaries), The approach chosen in this study was, therefore, to
andsometimesclearlyoutofrange(outliers).Itwasquickly collect all available data from the public domain (scientific
concluded that original data reflecting today’s situation is literatureandcompanyinformation),from(LCA)databases,
urgentlyneeded. fromtheemissionregistrationdatabaseoftheDutchgovern-
Asummaryoftheresultsoftheliteraturesurveyisgivenin ment,andbycontactingcompaniesandexperts.
thesucceedingparagraphsandsections.CollinsandAumônier We contacted (among others) the following companies/
(2002) compiled the LCI data upon references dating from associations:
1978 to 1999. Another research executed by Kalliala and
– OerlikonBarmag,
Talvenmaa(1999)reports,forexample,spinningenergywhich
– CIRFS,theEuropeanMan-MadeFibresAssociation,
isderivedfromastudyoutof1997.In-depthinvestigationon
– InternationalTextileManufacturersFederation(ITMF),
weavingledtotheresearchofKoçandÇinçik(2010),butan
– Kuempers.
analysis of the references revealed that only 5 out of 16
references were in English, which makes it very difficult to
verify the results. In the recent thesis of Shen (2011),
nonrenewableenergyusefortheproductionprocessesofdif- 2Goalandscope
ferentfabricsisgiven,baseduponareportfrom1997(Laursen
etal.1997).AnotherrecentlypublishedLCAstudyofWalser 2.1Goal
et al. (2011) uses inventory data for polyester (PET) textile
production,partlybuiltuponinformationdatingfrom1997as Thegoalofthestudyistodevelopanimproved(up-to-date)
well. The authors also noticed that the data in the Ecoinvent insight into the environmental burden of the life cycle of
database (Ecoinvent 2010) on cotton and bast fibers do not textiles, for various types of materials (cotton, PET, nylon,
specify the yarn size, which has an important influence on acryl,andelastane),andasafunctionofthethicknessofthe
energyuse.ThisaspectisfurtherdiscussedinSection3. yarnintherangeof50–500dtex(decitex=themassingrams
In general, it appeared to be very difficult to check the per 10,000 m). The main focus is on the production of
underlying datasets because researchers built up their own textiles (cradle-to-gate); some data on the use phase (wash-
datasetbycombininginformation fromdifferentandsome- ingbytheuser)andtheend-of-lifephasearealsoprovided.
timesveryoldorconfidentialsources. Since the goal of the study is to provide designers with
Tobler-Rohr(2011)givesanexcellentoverviewoftextile environmental information, the output of the calculations is
production but does not provide enough LCI data to base notpresentedintheformofasetofmidpoints,butintheform
furtherLCAcalculationson. ofsingleindicators.AsingleindicatorinLCIanalysisisone
Steinberger et al. (2009) present a comprehensive LCA singlescoretoexpresstheresultofthecumulativeinventory
studyonclothingwhichisfocusedontheusephaseoftextiles listinoneindicator,eitheratthemidpointorendpointlevel.
IntJLifeCycleAssess(2014)19:331–356 333
Fig.1 Calculationstructureof
theEco-costs2012
Toprovidethereaderwithinformationontheeffectofthechoice 2.2Scope,systemboundaries,anddeclaredunit
ofasingleindicator,dataonfoursingleindicatorsaregiven:
The scope of this study is cradle-to-grave. It includes the
– Eco-costs2012(aprevention-basedindicator),
cradle-to-gate processes of the production chain from raw
– CO equivalent(asingleindicatoratmidpointlevel),
2 material extraction to manufactured greige1 fabric for cot-
– Cumulativeenergydemand(CED),
ton, PET, nylon, acryl, and elastane, as well as the gate-
– ReCiPe(adamage-basedindicator).
to-grave processes for textile products made out of these
Eco-costsisameasuretoexpresstheamountofenviron- materials.
mentalburdenofaproductonthebasisofpreventionofthat TheLCAsforgreigetextilemanufacturingphasesarefull
burden and has also been introduced in this journal before analyses. For dyeing and finishing processes, ranges and an
(Vogtländer and Bijma 2000, 2001). They are the costs example ofLCA based onbestpractices aregiven.Acutoff
whichshouldbemadetoreducetheenvironmentalpollution criterion of 1 % is applied to decide on the exclusion of
and materials depletion in our world to a level which is in (sub)processes, inputs, and outputs, in compliance with ISO
line with the carrying capacity of our earth. The eco-costs 14044 Section 4.2.3.3. For the use phase and the end-of-life
system has been updated in 2007 and in 2012. The charac- phase, ranges are given based on specific cases. The scope
terization(“midpoint”)tables whichareappliedintheEco- excludes the following phases related to the textile product:
costs2012systemare(seeFig.1andVogtländer2013): manufacturing(sewingandassembling),distribution,market-
ing,andsalesofthetextile.
– IPPC2007,100years,forgreenhousegasses;
Thechoiceofthedeclaredunit(functionalunit)is“1kg
– USETOX,forcarcinogensandecotoxicity;
of(greige)textile.”Thispapershowsthataunitinkilograms
– ReCiPe, for acidification, eutrophication, and summer
isalogicalchoicefromthepointofviewofproduction,since
smog(photochemicaloxidantformation);
theeco-burdenofthebasematerials,spinning,andweaving
– IMPACT2002+,forfinedust.
of all materials is a function of kilograms and yarn size
Eco-costsispartofthebiggermodeloftheeco-costsvalue (decitex). However, from the point of view of textile appli-
ratio (EVR) and the method of eco-efficient value creation cations (cloth, carpets, etc.), it seems logical to have a de-
(WeverandVogtlander2012;MestreandVogtlander2013). claredunitin1m2,soSection8providessomeinformation
Theadvantageofthesingle-issueindicators(CO equiva- persquaremeter.
2
lent and CED) is that they are simple to understand. The Table 1 summarizes the scope of this study and simulta-
disadvantage,however,isthattoxicityandmaterialsdepletion neouslyexplainstheoutlineofthisarticle.Thefullcradle-to-
isnottakenintoaccount.Thatisthereasonwhydataoneco- gateanalysesontheproductionofmaterialsinphaseAand
costs and ReCiPe are given as well: they both incorporate phase1arebasedonEcoinventLCIs(Ecoinvent2007a,b).
humantoxicity,ecotoxicity,materialsdepletion,andlanduse. These LCIs include transport and the required production
ReCiPeisadamage-basedindicator.Itisthesuccessorofthe infrastructure(theso-calledthird-orderLCIs).
famousEco-indicator99,introducedinthisjournal(Goedkoop
etal.1998).WepresentthedatafortheEuropeH/Aweighting
1Theterm“greige”isindustryjargonfor“untreatedwovenorknitted
setforhumantoxicity,ecotoxicity,andmaterialsdepletion(H/A
fabric” and refers to the fabric before the final phases of dyeing and
referstothedefaultReCiPeendpointmethod,H=hierarchistand
finishing. In this context, “greige” is defined as “unbleached and
A=averageweightingset). undyedoruntreated.”
334 IntJLifeCycleAssess(2014)19:331–356
Todeterminewhethertheimpactoftheemissionsfromthe Inconclusion,Section7givesanoverviewofthebreak-
followingproductionprocessstepsstaysbelowthe1%cutoff downoftheenvironmentalburdenoverthecompletetextile
criterion, the emission registration database of the Dutch gov- lifecycle.Transportationinthefirststepofmaterialproduc-
ernment (http://www.emissieregistratie.nl/erpubliek/bumper.nl. tion (polymers and cotton) is included; however, we
aspx, accessed on 20 January 2013) is used. This database disregarded transportation in the subsequent production
showsthatemissionsfromtheproductionsitesofprocessphases chainforthefollowingreasons:
BtoDand2to5arelessthan1%oftheemissionsfromthe
– Theextentoftransportationservicesisverycasespecif-
productionofelectricityandheat,sotheseemissionsarebelow
ic and it, therefore, does not seem possible to develop
the1%cutoffcriterionandarenottakenintoaccount.
generic estimates; moreover, a fair part of the environ-
The results of the analyses of the previously mentioned
mental impacts caused by transportation cancels out
processesforgreigefabricareincludedinSections4.1and4.2.
acrosstheoptionsstudied(theprincipleof“streamlined
TheDutchemissiondatabaseshowsthatemissionsfrom
LCA”;ToddandCurran1999).
production facilities for dyeing and finishing are above the
– The pollution caused by the transportation of fabric is
1%cutoffcriterion,sotheseemissionscomingfromphases
generallysmallcomparedtothepollutionofotherpro-
E, F, 6, and 7 are included in the analyses. Note that the
cesses in the production chain, in particular material
emissions of these process phases are highly dependent on
production. (Shipping textile products from China
the fact whether or not modern best practices of green pro-
causes the following extra scores per kilogram: eco-
duction are used and on the specific colors and finishing
costs,€0.078;carbonfootprint,0.16kgCO equivalent;
processes. Only data on best practices in the Netherlands 2
CED,2.6MJ;ReCiPe,0.02Pt).
havebeenanalyzed,sincedatafromproductionfacilitiesin
otherareas(forinstance,IndiaandChinawherethesituation Forelectricityfromthegrid,thedataoftheUCTE(aver-
is without doubt expected to be much worse) are not avail- ageelectricity production intheEuropean Union [EU]) has
able.Resultsoftheanalysesofthegate-to-gateprocessesE, beenapplied.Thereasonforthischoiceisthatthesituationis
F,6,and7areincludedinSection5.2. quitedependentonthespecificarea.Forinstance,thereare
Theusephase(Gand8)andtheend-of-lifephase(Hand9) areas in China with old power plants which are extremely
arestronglycasedependent.Forthesephases,afewscenarios polluting, but more and more areas with modern power
are provided in Section 6 to show the reader how important plants with pollution standards similar to the standards in
thesephasesarecomparedtotheproductionphases. Europearise(Ecoinvent2007c).
Table1 Scopeofresearchandoutlineofarticle
Process/lifecyclephase Specificationsofanalysis Discussedin Resultsin
Cotton Synthetics(polyester,nylon,
acryl,andelastane)
(A)Fiberproduction 1.Polymerproduction LCAbasedonEcoinvent Section3.2 Section4.1for Figs.2,3,4,5,
(cultivationand (coveringallprocess data processes(A)to 6,7,8,9,10,
cottontreatment) stepsfromtheextraction (D)forgreige 11,and12
ofresources) cottontextile forprocesses
(A)to(D)
(B)Spinningtoyarn 2.Spinningoffilament LCAasfunctionofyarn Section3.3 and1to5
3.Texturing thickness Section3.4 Section4.2for
(C)Weavingorknitting 4.Weavingorknitting Sections3.5 processes1to
and3.6 5forgreige
cottontextile
(D)Pretreatment 5.Heatsettingoffabric LCAbasedonenergy Section3.7
includingwashing
(E)Dyeingoffabric 6.Dyeingoffabric Rangesandexample Section5.1 Section5.2 Processes(E)to
(F)Finalfinishing 7.Finalfinishingincluding ofLCAbasedon Section5.1 Section5.2 (H)and6to
includingdrying drying bestpracticegiven 9arecase
dependent
(G)Usephase 8.Usephase Datagiven Section6.1 Section6.1
(H)End-of-life 9.End-of-life Datagiven Section6.2 Section6.2
AnoverviewoverthecompletelifecycleisdiscussedinSection7anddepictedinFigs.13and14
Table2 Cottonfiberproductionandspinning:datafromliteratureandprivatecommunication In
t
J
L
Processstep/source Quantity Specificationofprocess Specification Yarn Yarn Electricity Steam Natural Liquefied Diesel Light Heavy Hard Water(L) ife
and/orextraremarks ofproduct count count (kWh) (MJ) gas petroleum (MJ) fueloil fueloil coal C
(CO=cotton) (den) (dtex) (MJ) gas(MJ) (MJ) (MJ) (MJ) yc
le
A
Fibermanufacturing s
s
e
Cottonfiber Fiber ss
production (2
0
IFTH2(n.a.) 1kg Intensiveproduction Cottonfiber 0.41 0.00 0.50 8.21 7,103.00 1
4
(6countries) )
1
IFTH2(n.a.) 1kg Biologicalproduction Cottonfiber 0.41 0.00 0.50 8.21 7,103.00 9:3
(6countries) 3
1
Laursenetal.(2007) 1kg Cottoncultivationand 0.91 6.33 0.58 8.21 4.13 2,000.00 –
3
EDIPTEX harvesting 56
Laursenetal.(2007) 1kg Fiberproductionofcotton Cottonfiberincluding 13.89
EDIPTEX yarnaccordingto cultivationand
figure1.3 harvest
Yarnmanufacturing
Spinning Yarn
ITMF(2008) 1kg Rieterringspinning COcombedring,yarn 180 200 3.34
(includingwinding) 11/8in.,30Ne
ITMF(2008) 1kg Rieterrotorspinning COcarded,rotor 265 300 1.42
yarn=openend11/16
in.,20Ne
ITMF(2010) 1kg Rieterringspinning COcombedring,yarn 180 200 3.42
(includingwinding) 11/8in.,30Ne
ITMF(2010) 1kg Rieterrotorspinning COcarded,rotoryarn= 265 300 1.46
openend11/16in.,20Ne
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg Staplefibertoyarn+dataare COcombedringyarn 3.84
forworldaverage
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg Staplefibertoyarn+dataare COopenendyarn 2.54
forworldaverage
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg Thermalenergy(steam?)is 2.70 1.10
Tarakcioglua,1984 neededforfixation
lowestlimit
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg Thermalenergy(steam?)is 4.00 4.70
Tarakcioglu,1984 neededforfixation
highestlimit
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg OnlySEC+calculated COcombedweaving 180 200 3.32
yarn
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg OnlySEC+reported COcombedweaving 180 200 3.64
yarn
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg OnlySEC+calculated COcombedweaving 108 120 6.81
yarn
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg OnlySEC+calculated COcombedknitting 180 200 3.06
yarn
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg OnlySEC+calculated COcombedknitting 108 120 5.52
yarn
Confidentialsourceno.7 1kg RotorspinningofCO 1.85 1.68 1.56
3
3
5
3
Table2 (continued) 3
6
Processstep/source Quantity Specificationofprocess Specification Yarn Yarn Electricity Steam Natural Liquefied Diesel Light Heavy Hard Water(L)
and/orextraremarks ofproduct count count (kWh) (MJ) gas petroleum (MJ) fueloil fueloil coal
(CO=cotton) (den) (dtex) (MJ) gas(MJ) (MJ) (MJ) (MJ)
Dahllöf(2004)Laursen, 1kg Totalenergydemandfor 1.76
1997lowestlimit cottonspinning
factory—6.33MJ—
assumedonlyelectricity
Dahllöf(2004)Laursen, 1kg Totalenergydemandforcotton 5.10
1997lowestlimit spinningfactory—18.31MJ—
assumedonlyelectricity
KaplanandKoç(2010) 1kg Ringspinningaccordingtotheir COcombedweaving 330 330 1.88
calculations yarn
Kimetal.(1983) 1kg Spinningenergyusageperunit 5.40
production(kWh/kg)>no
specificmaterial;reported
data1972
Kimetal.(1983) 1kg Spinningenergyusageperunit 4.86
production(kWh/kg)>no
specificmaterial;reported
data1980
CollinsandAumônier kgproduct Spinningincludingpreparation= Forpairofcottonbriefs
(2002) 29.36kWh/kg (72g)andpairof
polyestertrousers
(=400g)
Cartwrightetal.(2011), 1kg Yarnmanufacturing Forshirt65PET/35CO 7.46
Laursenetal.(2007) staplefibers
EDIPTEX
Palamutcu(2010) 1kg Cardedyarnspinning 3.30
plant—averageactualand
estimated
Laursenetal.(2007) 1kg Combedringyarnaccording 65/35PET/CO 117 130 4.10 2.20
EDIPTEX toformula
Laursenetal.(2007) 1kg Combedringyarnaccordingto 100CO 117 130 4.15 2.20
EDIPTEX formula
SimaPro7.2educational, 1kg Yarnproduction,cottonfibers/kg/ 5.10 Int
Idemat2012,V0.0 GLO+electricity,lowvoltage, J
L
atgrid/CNU ife
SimaPro7.2educational, 1kg Yarnproduction,cottonfibers/kg/ 3.40 C
Idemat2012,V0.0 GLO+electricity,lowvoltage, yc
atgrid/USU le
A
DemirandBehery(1997) 1kg Ringspun 67CO/33PET 167 4.41 s
s
e
Laursenetal.(2007) 1kg Spinningofcottonyarnaccording 11.61 2,000.00 ss
EDIPTEX toFig.1.3 (2
0
Laursenetal.(2007) 1kg Figure3.3blending,carding, 5.07 1
4
EDIPTEX combing,andspinningof )
1
COandPESstaplefibers 9
:3
(0.877kg) 3
1
Processor,2011phase1 1kg Carding+sliving+spinning+ 40PET/60CO+PES 180 200 7.00 –
3
winding staplefibers 56
IntJLifeCycleAssess(2014)19:331–356 337
L) ed of All auxiliaries in phases A and 1 are included, since the
DieselLightHeavyHardWater((MJ)fueloilfueloilcoal(MJ)(MJ)(MJ) 4.76 ment.IFTH2(n.a.)referstoanunpublishl'habillement nthiscase,theyrefertoapublication Emocttts0hhocot.c0aheeomotn8erhicieurpnneakssflpvl,egaIcuexPpcudtnCtiePlyuntoarOCergtfdiis2knodat2aiugtneyl0gafoqse0efogushsni3ftr,siautvasv“tlfdma)eeffelyxasse:aesitbnbrrieeelttaceph;cesaorannCe(ran-odarEccaitctteoDopichriscnponse,tel,src2ai”cd,el.luuih7dcu€ntdiabo0ggMheurf.hdeifs0tJcr,eo1lc;aesi5rsnq.RIiit;ttuPnAheseocP,CcerueriaCoixdfrPronietbalhe2lttoile,oiea0onorfr00wgii.ae13me0ficso,nn1%pcotg1faoastom,pcr(Perdetrxotaii.t)tnngnonh.rtg.dngae,,
NaturalLiquefiedgaspetroleum(MJ)gas(MJ) xtileetdel'habilleaisdutextileetde notherreference(i 33.1LCBIasdeamtaa—terciraalsdle-to-gateforgreigetextile
ec a
ElectricitySteam(kWh)(MJ) 12.00 1.60 3.20 2.88 2.32 stitutFrancaisdutFTH.InstitutFran eirpublicationto TE–––hcoeiCANnLvocCyertlIytonolntd,n,av“,ta52“ac0c.2eoft:%ototrno“icntnorfiytliteblo,oenanrstf,6pigb,laieannrtnt/paeRnldaEd,nRatpt/”Rof(alERyrmRmE/R”eCr=aNnpR”deel(gl5Cei0otNsn%=aErC“uenhrofyirnplooaem))n;;
QuantitySpecificationofprocessSpecificationYarnYarnand/orextraremarksofproductcountcount(CO=cotton)(den)(dtex) 1kgCarding+sliving+spinning+40PET/60CO+PES90100windingstaplefibers1kgDoubling+twining40PET/60CO+PES180200staplefibers1kgDoubling+twining40PET/60CO+PES90100staplefibers1kgRingspinningCOcombed 1kg ublishedreportnamed:Extraitde“l’AnalysedeCycledeviepyjamaBébé”parl’IFTH.Indeàlapriseencomptedel’environnementdanslaconceptiond’articlestextiles”parl’I Koç(2010)Tarakcioglu,1984”meansthatKaplanandKoç(2010)arereferringinth ––3Affd6fsorrteharoeeox.ef.ol2bljerunplieFcMIImrardotlmmcoTircdiab6PaEacatuoatoehieittappi6tEltrlnmnlsosaaadteppoo,istaTedncrstollrruoaytedo,tLauaatttefatsffuhaaflnn“sCxooiniecEapnnrebtpttnttdbrceurn//hAslttuieoRRyaetlledear(frrtaleasnsEEoSonhyerdeitcat.ttenmfipreeapRRla/hnrTouefeRtbeeatatodeh.rannhchamdacn”lSeErsnyetsceinetednie”sfasRulbhloanirecen;ec,ondfenyobn”nxacaearuwadmi;le,seridcSplcftcgasieLataamueuwrtttiu,tseycaiyncbilasrtataersstatceeiulues(ientondirprloesdipcrtaenifgewoersxinalih)cnereyenlc,stfetiptesrgshfvhsoee“.lcerao4lepeadrpoaotnvrpdletaortcafatauthredsfetlenhtiofhnwoyeedlsrndieacaerduo,nschoireberm5dLfgnaeictsselorc.alr:tesChttlTcarehtrhytomauanhaIpssaiscltobunestondaaheeeullgnettainIeeapaiirnT,toostbsctarerdfhMnneegl2el,eaeoeisfsfe,nafetFxefan3acprmorrioteoS,erb2eyrwoamor4mnenl0aadledr,ccecrl1lpeiu5nectrefro0hiec.oeof,sor)ortcaaan.nWoitafutnmnohfolrmsiddy3neeer-,,
Table2(continued) Processstep/source Processor,2011phase1 Processor,2011phase2 Processor,2011phase2 IFTH1(n.a.) IFTH2(n.a.) IFTH1(n.a.)referstoanunpreportnamed:Extraitde“ai n.a.notavailableaThenotation“KaplanandTarakciogluoutof1984) – RcSCuppiroaweoaolwptmivitcooezipodrnretamerrcolsfiapoo—sfnaosrtdtnhnast.iem,heIpwesITo,eThnMwrcMigcookFhFnrio’llssodit(ush2g’(lse2tb0rara01atnme1s0ctxe0s)odt,.)osilItafoeITnnncMpdtioenrdromFdtanedutapxiausstottciicronaltioenneemasnatniltrnisbadnPt—daegrseoroneoffdrdaavoustteihmsciornoetvnicoiiaeZcninalwodütasiiCrsosvtisconiodoohss-f-ft,,
3
Table3 Cottonweaving:datafromliteratureandprivatecommunications 3
8
Processstep/source Quantity Specificationof Specification Yarn Yarn Electricity Steam Natural Liquefied Diesel Light Heavy Hard Water
processand/or ofproduct count count (kWh) (MJ) gas(MJ) petroleum (MJ) fueloil fueloil coal (L)
extraremarks (CO=cotton) (den) (dtex) gas(MJ) (MJ) (MJ) (MJ)
Fabricmanufacturing
Warpingandsizing Yarn
Palamutcu(2010) 1kg SECisrelativelylowcomparedto Warpyarn 0.01
steamandheat
Weaving Fabric
ITMF(2010) 1kg Meanof96Sultexair-jetweaving Fabricof27.6/27.6 180 200 4.38
machinesB190N2EP11,air threads/cm,Ne30
conditioning,weaving inwarpandweft,
preparation,clothinspection, graywidth168cm,
transportationunits,warpbeam grayweight190g/m
diameter1,000mm,cloth
beamdiameter600mm
ITMF(2010) 1kg Meanof72Sultexair-jetweaving Fabricof24.0/24.0 265 300 2.97
machinesB190N2EP11,air threads/cm,Ne20
conditioning,weaving inwarpandweft,
preparation,clothinspection, graywidth
transportationunits,warpbeam 168cm,gray
diameter1,000mm,cloth weight248g/m
beamdiameter600mm
Confidentialsource 1kg WeavingwithsizinginSweden+ 2.65 1.66 1.53
no.7 averageofthreemillsproducing
CO,Trevira,andwool/PA
Confidentialsourceno. 1kg 1.82 1.66 1.53
7,lowestvalue
Confidentialsourceno. 1kg 4.19 1.66 1.53
7,highestvalue
Dahllöf(2004),Laursen 1kg Totalenergydemandrangesbetween
10and30MJ—nobreakdown
reported
Kallialaand 1kg Includessingeingandsizingenergy
Talvenmaa(1999) (electricity)consumption—5.4 In
t
MJ—nobreakdownreported J
L
Kimetal.(1983) 1kg Weavingenergyusageperunit 4.76 ife
production(kWh/kg)>nospecific C
material;1972reporteddata yc
Kimetal.(1983) 1kg Weavingenergyusageperunit 3.86 le
A
production(kWh/kg)>nospecific s
s
material;1980reporteddata es
s
Kimetal.(1983),Van Pershirt Energyrequirementstoproducethe Clothmanufacture 18.50 (2
Winkle,1978 shirtingmaterialfor1shirtin 100%CO 0
1
kWhoffossilfuelequivalents 4)
(1shirtrequires2,368m/m2of 19
fabricandtheCOshirtweighs :3
3
308g;CO/PET270gand 1–
PET240g) 35
6
Table3 (continued) In
t
J
L
Processstep/source Quantity Specificationof Specification Yarn Yarn Electricity Steam Natural Liquefied Diesel Light Heavy Hard Water ife
processand/or ofproduct count count (kWh) (MJ) gas(MJ) petroleum (MJ) fueloil fueloil coal (L) C
extraremarks (CO=cotton) (den) (dtex) gas(MJ) (MJ) (MJ) (MJ) yc
le
A
Kimetal.(1983),Van Pershirt Clothmanufacture 20.20 s
s
Winkle,1978 50/50PET/CO es
s
Kimetal.(1983),Van Pershirt Clothmanufacture 20.20 (2
Winkle,1978 65/35PET/CO 0
1
Kimetal.(1983),Van Pershirt Clothmanufacture 7.30 4)
Winkle,1978 100%PET 19
KoçandÇinçik(2010) 1kg Warping+sizing+drawing+air-jet 180 200 5.06 :3
3
weaving—SEC+9.85kJ/kg 1–
forthermalenergy 35
6
(NWE=NWA=30Ne=180
Td=20tex)
KoçandÇinçik(2010), 1kg Electricalenergyconsumptionfor 2.10
Tarakcioglu,1984 1kgofwovenfabric+8.3–17kJ/kg
lowestvalue forthermalenergy=negligible
(+sortnotspecified)
KoçandÇinçik 1kg Electricalenergyconsumptionfor 5.60
(2010), 1kgofwovenfabric+8.3–17kJ/kg
Tarakcioglu,1984 forthermalenergy=negligible
lowestvalue (+sortnotspecified)
KoçandÇinçik(2010), 1kg 2.2–25kJ/kgforthermalenergy= 5.75
Visvanathan,2000 negligible(+sortnotspecified)
BahrDahrTextileShare 1kg Weavingrequireselectricity+ 9.44 4.50 9.07
Company(2010) compressedair+steam
CollinsandAumônier kg Weavingincludingbeaming+winding 12.60
(2002) product forfabricforapairofpolyester
trousers(=400g)takes12,60
kWh/kgproduct
Cartwrightetal.(2011), 1kg Closed-offhigh-speedair-jetloom Oneshirt(65%PET/35% 1.35
Laursenetal.(2007) CO)weighs227g
EDIPTEX
Palamutcu(2010) 1kg SEC 1.80
SimaPro7.2educational, 1kg Weaving,cotton/GLOU,electricity, 7.08
Idemat2012,V0.0 lowvoltage,atgrid/CNU
SimaPro7.2educational, 1kg Weaving,cotton/GLOU, 3.03
Idemat2012,V0.0 electricity,lowvoltage,
productionRER
Kuempers,2011, 1kg 60%CO+40%PES 10.63
personal
communication
Laursenetal.(2007) 1kg FromFig.3.3,6.8MJper Weavingoffabric 2.15
EDIPTEX 1workingjacketof770g of65%CO+35%PES
(fabric877g)
Processor,2011phase3 1kg 6.5kWh/10,000picks; 40PET/60 180 200 9.39
37picks/cm;160cmwidth CO+PESstaplefibers
3
3
9
340 IntJLifeCycleAssess(2014)19:331–356
WaterL) electric power per country. Using this information, it is
( possibletocalculatebackthepoweruse.
Hardcoal(MJ) – An anonymous company (named “Processor, 2011
phaseX”inTables2,3,and4),whichisaproducerof
HeavyueloilMJ) (amongothertextilefabrics)shirtmaterialandhaspro-
f( ductionplantsinBelgiumandFrance.
Lightfueloil(MJ) – T20h1e1c”ominpTanayblOee5r)l,ikwonhiBcharimsaagm(reefcehrarendictaolaesn“gBinaeremriangg,
DieselMJ) cinogmmpaancyhionfefserfionrgminann-omvaatdiveefisbpeirnsn.ing linesandtextur-
(
Liquefiedpetroleumgas(MJ) – TseenhtteeurpEprDiinsIePcslTowEseXhcicoshotupcdeoyrnabttiryoibnLuwtaeuidtrhswemnitohertecatohl.ma(nm201e05n7tDs),aownnihshipcrthoexdwtuialcest
alMJ) models and processes or were directly involved in the
ur( collection of data and contributed with data on, e.g.,
Natgas chemicals being used, energy consumption, and waste. A
m
eaMJ) lotof(recent)LCAstudies,e.g.,theMissionLinenreport
St( (Cartwrightetal.2011),refertodatacontainedinthisreport.
y
cit Allcollecteddata(andnotonlythechosenones)forthegate-
Electri(kWh) 19.50 tex) t6o-tgoaitnefporromduthcteiorneapdreorceasbsoeustaarellirnecsluuldtsedfrionmTatbhleesda2t,a3-c,o4l,le5c,tainngd
Yarncount(dtex) 100 =1/591 a(3c.t3ivtiotie3s..7Tahnedc5h.2o)seannddaretandaererejdusintifiiteadlicinsitnhethfeolTloabwleinsg2,se3c,t4io,n5s,
Yarncount(den) 90 1Ne and6.
s, Note that the textile industry is using several systems to
s
e
kn expressthethicknessofyarnwhichmustnotbeconfused.Two
c
ES thi importantunitsare“tex”(mostlyexpressedindtex=decitex=0.1
P n
ecificationproductO=cotton) PET/60CO+staplefibers aunitforyar teveqaxul)uaealsntodin1“bdgoe/tn9hiekurmn.”it.sWIfahraeilseppr1eecsdieftniectxeadtiiosinneqtohufeayltaatrobnle1tsh.gic/1k0neksmsi,s1kndoenwnis,
Spof(C 40 h(
glis 3.3Spinningofcottonandpolymerfilament
n
E
er For the spinning process of cotton, only electrical power is
b
m
48dth nu important for the LCA calculation (the maintenance of the
s;wi Ne machinecanbeneglected,aswellasthemakingofit).The
pickcm me, resultsfromthedatacollectionaresummarizedinTable2.
Specificationofprocessand/orextraremarks 6.5kWh/10,000picks/cm;160 11amachinena stTfooparibaenIlt,hneuwiing2saegh.sleDeprcsaresootnanc(,eaecrpwslguspiydtrthoehdodxaeuitmmftarasoatnptmhedeilcnyptinhfe5ieerc0rakpy%tiihlaooyrongnsfrio(catlhfamoeltwh,dceweharythaadraiacreinhcnctiTecsteriaazixnbse)tl,bieiciesss2,sr)oee.thelfDaenttarehietdnea-
P
y E fromEcoinventisalsouselessforthesamereason.
Quantit 1kg mption, sizeFiagnudrew2hischhowmseetthethdeaftoalloofwTianbgleth2ewcriittheraias:pecified yarn
u
3 ns 1. Ismostrecent.
e o
d) has yc 2. Is for the specific energy consumption (SEC) spinning
Table3(continue Processstep/source Processor,2011p SECspecificenerg 3ttih.oincFkpTrpnorheoemerscsekyFsiaiilsngron.ogd2frteh,ac1imii0tctekc0yxan%an.ersbnsceoiiscsttooiwnnnicv.tlheuridsneesldyctohppareot.pthoerteionneraglytocothnesuymarpn-