Kyiv. InYour Pocket Essential City Guide March - May 2014

31 Pages·6.4 MB·English

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Kyiv
March - May 2014
Orthodox Easter
Ukrainian traditions
Parks & Gardens
The best places to experience
the amazing springtime
inyourpocket.com
N°56
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
CITY GUIDES
Arrival & Getting around 6
Getting to the city, car rentals and transport
The Basics 8
All you’d better know while in Kyiv
History 11
A short overview of a rich Ukrainian history
Orthodox Easter 12
Ukrainian taditions
Culture & Events 14
Classical music, concerts and exhibitions schedules
Where to stay 18
Kviv accommodation options
Quick Picks 27
Kyiv on one page
Peyzazhna Alley Wonderland
Restaurants 28
The selection of the best restaurants in the city
Cafes 38
Our choice from dozens of cafes
Drink & Party 39
City’s best bars, pubs & clubs
What to see 42
Essential sights, museums, and famous churches
Parks & Gardens 50
The best place to expirience the amazing springtime
Shopping 52
Where to spend some money
Directory 54
Medical tourism, lifestyle and business connections
Maps & Index
Street register 56
City centre map 57
City map 58
A time machine at Pyrohovo open-air museum Country map 59
facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 3
Foreword Foreword
Spring in Kyiv usually comes late, so the beginning of March
Cover story In Your Pocket MobIle
does not mean warm weather, shining sun and blossoming
flowers. Kyiv residents could not be happier that spring is
coming, as this past winter lasted too long. Snow fell right Kyiv In Your Pocket is proud to In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones
on schedule in December and only the last days of Febru- give its readers a brand new de- via our responsive mobile platform, found at
ary gave us some hope when we saw the snow thawing. Publisher E S S E N TI A L sign. For this first new issue we m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities
With that in mind, if a burly Ukrainian sits next to you on Neolitas-KIS Ltd. CITY GUIDES have chosen a great photograph across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable
Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Ukraine,
a park bench and takes off his shirt, don’t be alarmed…he of Kyiv pechersk Lavra. This mon- resource which puts our unrivalled content together
tel./fax [phone]
just needs to soak in some rays to get over the cabin fever. astery made Kyiv the “Rome” of with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones.
[email protected]
Orthodox Christianity and con- In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a
As usual, spring brings us a lot of expectations to see na- Registration No. KB 7467
tinues to attract pilgrims from city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest
ture as the city recovers from its long sleep. First we wait Published 4 times per year. 60,000 copies annualy.
around the world. Its territory of to your current location. Smart filters can be used to
for the apricot trees to start blossoming, then we wait for
Editorial 28ha contains not only churches, towers and an under- ensure that only those places which matter to you are
the first tulips and most of all Kyiv residents wait for the
Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova ground cave system, but also some of Kyiv’s most in- displayed. You can also leave comments about venues,
magnolia and lilac blossoming at the Botanical Gardens.
Research Kyiv In Your Pocket team teresting museums. Landscape park below Lavra is one as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You
April-May is as usual chock - full of holidays, and Ukrain- Layout & Design KIS Ltd. of the most beautiful area in the city for spring strolls. can even share your comments with your friends via
ians always find a way to put their busy lives on hold Photos © Kyiv In Your Pocket the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s
and celebrate to the full. Locals add their own unique Cover photo depositphotos.com web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now.
twists to April Fools’Day (1st April). International Work- Sales & Circulation the new In Your Pocket
ers Day is celebrated on the 1st and 2nd of May. Easter
Director Andrii Cherniavskyi
this year falls on the 5th of May. Victory Day is on the 9th
Kyiv Natasha Martisova, ([phone] Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that
of May. We’re not sure by now if there will be a parade
Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, Solomiya Hnativ this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a
on Khreschatyk street, but just in case if you want to see
Odesa Liubov Rogatinska new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind,
the Ukrainian military in its full might – be somewhere
Copyright notice we have taken on board hundreds of comments we
around Kyiv’s main street on the morning of Victory Day.
Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 2003-2014. have received over the past few years to come up
And be sure not to miss the nights beautiful fireworks
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of with a new format for our guides to make them more
display. Also, start getting used to the fact that most of
this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever
Ukrainian companies will be on a holiday from the 1st to
extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we
the 9th of May. The cherry on top of all holidays is Kyiv
from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while
Day! It is scheduled this year on 26th May and is one of
Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Ber- still ensuring that we point your way to all of those
the rockin’est celebrations of the year.
nardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. [phone]). quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in one of the best
You couldn’t have chosen a better time to visit Ukraine’s Maps any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope
capital. Kyiv is at its glorious best in springtime, so find a © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2014 that the changes are met with approval by all our read-
bench in the sunshine, take a deep breath, and just let go. © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2014 ers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at
Nasolodzhuisia! Enjoy! all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be
they good or bad or indifferent. Only by listening to our
About IyP readers can we make In Your Pocket even better. Send
your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email ad-
It’s now 22 years since we published dress [email protected], and follow us on both
the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (face- The UK newspaper The Independent recently published
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LATVIA RUSSIA grown to become the largest publisher developments at In Your Pocket. yourpocket.com was the third name on that list. This is
NORTHERN LITHUANIA of locally produced city guides in Eu- what the newspaper had to say about us:
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For about 3 months, St Michael’s Cathedral was a home, a hospital,
and a store for protesters
4 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 5
Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around
The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or
by PlAne by trAIn by bus route taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along speci-
fied routes. Many run the same routes as trolleys or buses
BORySPIl STATE InTERnATIOnAl AIRPORT Both international and local trains arrive at Kyiv-Pasazhyr- A new Central Bus Station is under construction next to the
and use the same numbers. Just flag it down as you would
All international flights arrive at Terminal D, the Airport’s larg- skyi train station. The refurbished Central Railway Station new Teremki metro station. Most international buses, how-
a taxi, then tell the driver “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the
est and newest Terminal. The arrival hall is located on the (центральний вокзал) has now been joined by a futuristic- ever, still arrive at the old Kyiv’s Central Bus Station (tsentralnyi
stop, please”) when you’ve had enough. Fares are paid as
ground floor. Upon exiting the gates, there is an informa- looking Southern Railway Station (південний вокзал), with avtovokzal). The old station sits like a hideous centrepiece on
you board and currently range from 2 to 3Hr.
tion point, public telephones, Avis Car Rental and Meeting the platforms located between the two. A new waiting Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovska ploscha. A currency
Since 1905, Kyiv’s funicular has carried passengers be-
Point Cafe. Currency exchange windows with competitive lounge up the stairs to the left from the central main hall exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and
tween Podil, on the bank of the Dnipro, and the heights of
rates are to the left of the gates, first aid is to the right. Ticket boasts comfy couches for a 10Hr admission fee. Currency just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian
Mykhailivs’ka ploscha. It offers not only a means of getting
agents, immigration, and customs officials speak some Eng- exchange (обмін валют) points and ATMs (банкомат) are Hryvnia. If you need to store your bags, a left-luggage office
from A to B, but also a rising panoramic view of the Dnipro
lish, so don’t worry if you have not yet mastered Ukrainian or in the main halls of each station. Coin-operated pay tele- is available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00).
River and the forested left bank. After perusing the art and
Russian. Customs control has been greatly relaxed in recent phones are scattered throughout the building, while card- Taxis are always on hand and can take you to the city centre
souvenirs of Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi uzviz), you
years, but it still makes sense to travel light and pass through operated ones are mostly outside the central entrance. A for approximately 50Hr. The Demiivska metro station (blue
may forego “Andrew’s Ascent” and catch the funicular at
the green express line upon arrival. Terminal B, to the left of metro station is located to the left from the Central Termi- line) is right near the bus station. Just go round McDonalds,
Poshtova ploscha metro. You will be delivered just behind
terminal D, operates local flights to Lviv, Odesa, Kharkiv, Do- nal. To the right from the Southern Terminal there is a stop pass a subway and find the metro entrance to your right.
the spectacular St. Michael’s Cathedral. Fares are 1.50Hr for
netsk, Zaporizhzhia, Simferopol and Dnipropetrovsk. of Sky Buses to/from Boryspil International Airport. TSEnTRAlnyI AvTOvOKzAl adults, and children under seven ride free.
The cheapest option to get to the city centre is to take Sky You’re basically in the town already, but short taxi rides to QH-5, Nauky prosp. 1/2, MDemiivska, tel. (+380) 44
Bus (www.skybus.kiev.ua). The bus stop is to the right of the Khreschatyk Street (Хрещатик) area cost 40Hr and up. The 527 99 86. Open 05:00 - 24:00.
exit. The ride to the main train station costs 40Hr and takes entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (Вокзальна) is to your left CAr rentAl
about an hour. The other option is a taxi. We highly recom- as you exit the central station - look for the green letter M. PublIC trAnsPort Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy
mend an official KBP Airport Sky Taxi, which is the most reli- Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red line. Various the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits
able with extremely good cars and service. A ride to the city trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart from the cen- A plethora of mass transit options are available to get you are 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads (there is 110
centre will cost around 200Hr. Pick up one of the cars right tral station. Those with light bags and fresh legs can head around Kyiv. But despite the trolley buses (electric buses), trams, km/h speed limit at Kyiv-Odesa road) and 130 on highways.
in front of the terminal exit. At the end of your trip the driver down the main road and turn right at Shevchenko Boulevard buses, the metro, microbuses and minivans, it’s still not enough A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine.
will give you a receipt according to the meter. A return trip (бульв. Т.Шевченка), which runs into Khreschatyk. to prevent frequent overcrowding. Don’t take the jostling per- Check our advises on how to drive a car in Ukraine.
from the city costs almost half the inbound journey. Also Sky sonally, don’t inhale too deeply but do give up your seat to the
AvIS
Taxi is a good choice for trips around the city with a rate of buyIng trAIn tICkets elderly and mothers with children. Public transport starts run- Also at Boryspil’ Airport, Terminal F, tel.: [phone],
6.5Hr per 1 km. ning around 05:45 and closes down a bit after midnight.
[email protected], Yams’ka 72, MLybids’ka,
For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train In the metro, purchase your one way blue token for 2Hr
tel. [phone], fax [phone], www.
zHulyAny KyIv AIRPORT ticket at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the Central (or South- from the expressionless booth attendant or from the auto-
avis.com.ua/en. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Kyiv Zhulyani Airport (Аеропорт Київ Жуляни) is only 8km ern) terminal of the Kyiv train station. The staff does not matic dispensers. Proceed to the row of gates, insert your
from the centre and handles mostly domestic travel, flights speak English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/Russian. It is token and wait a second for the red light to turn green so EuROPCAR
to and from Moscow and Wizz Air flights serving Europe. a good idea to get know the train number in advance and the jaws of death don’t maim you. There are three lines in Car and minivan rental. Chauffeur service is available.QJ-4,
There are several ATMs, a bank with good currency rates, write in on a piece of paper, together with the departure Kyiv - M1 (red line), M2 (blue line) and M3 (green line). Statonavodnyts’ka 29, MDruzhby narodiv, tel. (+380)
several cafes on the ground floor, and free Wi-Fi available date and time. Don’t bother to learn the Ukrainian alpha- Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can be pur- 44 220 35 00/([phone], [email protected],
throughout the terminal. Departures/arrivals for domestic bet, write down the destination city name in English as well chased for 1.50Hr from street kiosks or from conductors www.europcar.ua. A
flights operate from the old terminal behind Terminal A. A as your name. You might be asked to provide a passport and the driver on board. You should immediately validate HERTz
taxi to the city centre should not cost you more than 70Hr. when boarding. Aside from the train station, you can buy your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets Rental of cars and minivans. One-way rentals. Chauffeur
Trolleybus #9 (1.50Hr) brings you to Southern terminal of your tickets at the Central Ticket Office on Tarasa Shevchen- around you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a available.QZdolbunivs’ka 7D, MPozniaky, tel. (+380)
the main train station. Trolleybus #22 goes to Dorohozhy- ka bulv., which accepts credit cards. 40Hr fine by not one but two roaming inspectors. All tick- 44 492 32 70, fax [phone], www.hertz.ua/
chi metro station (green line). Marshrutka #213 (2.50Hr) Visit booking.uz.gov.ua/en/ for train schedule and ticket ets are good for one journey only. en. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A
shuttles passengers to Dorohozhychi (green line) and booking.
Petrivka (blue line) metro stations. QE-1, Povitroflots’kyi
departure date departure time number of the carriage (vagon)
prosp. 79, tel. [phone], www.airport.kiev.ua. CEnTRAl/SOuTHERn TRAIn STATIOn
There are above 50 ticket offices in total in both Central
and Southern Terminal. Consider that on Fridays and holi-
days long queue is a usual thing. Buy tickets in advance.
QG-3, Vokzalna pl. 1, MVokzalna, tel. [phone] number of the train
70 05. Open 24hrs.
to/from stations
CEnTRAl TICKET OffICE seat/berth number
Here you can buy tickets to all destinations, including
international. Credit cards are accepted. On holidays passenger’s name
and summer season tickets are limited.QG-2, Tarasa final price
Shevchenka bulv. 38/40, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 arriving date and time
503 70 05. Open 07:00 - 20:00. A
When travelling around Ukraine by train, you will never miss
the hustle and bustle of the Central Terminal An example of a train ticket
6 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 7
City Basics City Basics
Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to
BaSiC data Market valueS
any international alert and you have documents which prove
your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine
population you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy
Kyiv 761 929 from the State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural list of local prices to give you an idea.
Ukraine 45 553 000 Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (J-3, Smolskoho McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr €1,78 $2,25
Area 10, tel. [phone] 79 91.) All customs declara- Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr €0,32 $0,40
Ukraine 603,700 sq km tions, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept through- Snickers bar 6,00Hr €0,59 $0,75
Kyiv out the period of your stay, and must be handed over upon Litre of vodka 50,00Hr €4,94 $6,26
departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr €0,49 $0,62
ethnic composition 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr €1,33 $1,69
Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, Belarusian 0.6%, Mol- drinking Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,12 $0,16
dovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, Bulgarian 0.4%, Hun- 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,50Hr €1,04 $1,31
garian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to
other 1.8%. boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol con- official exchange rates (as of March 1): language SMartS
tent is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign €1 – 13.56Hr US$1 – 9.75Hr £1 – 16.21Hr
lEnaoesicgtaehlr bntoi mEuureirno gp ecaonu nTtimriees zBoenlaer u(Gs, MRoTm +a2n),i aa alonndg T uwriktehy i.ts blisrhanmdesn ctsa. nU kfirnadin eth aelsiro fapvrooduuritceess aat wfiindeer ssehleocptiso na nodf veostdakba-, B€1a n–k 1s3 e.5x8cHhra n g UeS r$a1t e–s 9 (.a8s6 Hofr M a £r1c h– 11)6: .00Hr Tpheen dceonucnetr iyn’s 1 o9ffi91ci, ailt lhanasg ubaegcoe mis eU mkrauicnhia mn. oSrien cpeo ipnudlea-r
which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if and widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea
offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon and Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is
can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall Money Ukrainian truly predominant.
CriMe and Safety odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrain- The following is a list of some of the most common
ian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some The national currency is the hryvnia (hr, UAh), which re- words and phrases a person is likely to need.
After 3 months of protests, violent police actions, and de point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. placed the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996.
facto uncontrolled situation, calm has returned to Kyiv. Don’t be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu)
Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia)
Since the security forces pulled back at the end of Febru- haven’t been transported to Russia or taken back in time to
health & eMergenCy Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka)
ary 2014 and the new government has been established, the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the You’re welcome Прошу (PRO-shu)
Ukrainian and other media present report that there has Emergency telephone numbers: past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu)
been no surge in crime, no looting, and no retribution ex- 200 and 500 hryvnias. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte)
Ambulance 103 Police 102 Fire 101
acted on political opponents. with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no Yes/No Так/Ні (tak)/(ні)
Kyiv, in fact, has always been a rather safe place for foreign The public health care system is lacking in every way. Hospi- problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo)
tourists. However as in most cities, flashing large amounts tals are filthy and not all those working in them are not what better from central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu)
of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear one would consider competent. Most are underpaid so be need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu)
in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all prepared to pay at every step of the way. It is a good idea to can find a number of ATMs around Kyiv and many hotels Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’)
times. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry at get Travel Medical Insurance. It can be bought here as well as and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Where is…? Де знаходиться...? (de zna-KHO-dytsia)
Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo)
least a copy of their passport with them at all times. abroad and actually works. Usually they send you to a de- Express is not very popular. There have been scattered re-
cent hospital or even a good dental clinic. They will call an ports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so
FedeX
ambulance if needed as well. It is good to have a local call you may want to think twice before charging it.
CuStoMS QKikvidze 44, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. [phone]
the insurance company rep here for you. If you are uninsured
20 20, fax [phone], www.fedex.com. Open
If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of and need an ambulance it would be good to have someone Mail & Phone 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
customs duties and taxes: who knows the language call and explain the situation. They
Alcohol: one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine. usually bring a doctor actually do a pretty good job in di- POST TNT
tobacco: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. agnosing and treating the patient sometimes making a trip Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so QMoskovs’kyi prosp. 28A, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44
to hospital unnecessary. Be prepared to pay something. Also often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at 207 07 70, fax [phone], www.tnt.com. Open
other goods: a person can bring in food products free of there are several private clinics, which are clean and up to its intended destination, which is quite annoying. Connec- 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed western standards and the staff are well qualified. If you re- tions involving fixed line telephones are often bad, some-
€200. However, food products should not total more than ally need help in an emergency do not hesitate to call your times incorporating another conversation into yours or go- UPS
two kilogrammes, and there should not be more than one consulate. They can help to arrange things, even a medical ing dead in mid-conversation. Mobile phones are already QH-4, Mechnykova 20, MKlovs’ka, tel. [phone]
package of the same product. Goods with a total value of less evacuation. For a list of contacts, please go to p.54. very popular, and the internet is getting there. 00 00, fax [phone], www.ups.com. Open
than €1000 may be brought in free of customs duties and 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
taxes. If the value of your goods is greater than €1000, but Street SMartS CeNTral POST OFFiCe
less than €10000 they will need to be declared on a customs QC-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. Fixed line telephone
personal declaration form and you should pay 10% duty plus Street вулиця (vul.) (VU-lytsia) ([phone], www.ukrposhta.ua. Open 08:00 - 20:00. To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make
20% VAT. If the value of the goods is greater than €10000, the Square площа (pl.) (PLO-scha) a long-distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone
goods will be subject to clearance in accordance with the Avenue проспект (prosp.) (pro-SPEKT) dHl and then dial the city code and number. To call Kyiv from
import declaration requirements for imported cargo. Boulevard бульвар (bul’v.) (bul’-VAR) Also at Ivana Mazepy 11B. Courier pick-up can be re- another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Kyiv’s city code
personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or Bridge міст (mist) quested.QA-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 2, ML’va Tolstoho, (44) and then the number. To make an international call,
taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to Highway шосе (shose) (sho-SE) tel. [phone], www.dhl.com.ua. Open 09:00 dial 0, wait for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country
make a written declaration in relation to them. Lane провулок (prov.) (pro-VU-lok) - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. code, city code and number itself.
8 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 9
City Basics History
authority of hetmans, but the most prominent hetmans - such
Peyzazhna Alley - the Alice in Wonderland World Pre-ChriStian tiMeS as Petro Konashevych-Sahaidachnyi, Bohdan Khmelnyts’kyi
and Ivan Mazepa - exercised enormous influence over city life.
By the end of the second millennium BC, the prominent Tryp-
illian Culture had ceased to exist. Nomadic, Cimmerians, and
under the ruSSia eMPire
Scythians occupied the region. The Scythians developed a
class of wealthy aristocrats who constructed elaborate graves
In 1648, a new Ukrainian state arose as Cossack leader Bohdan
filled with richly worked articles of gold and others precious
Khmelnytskyi led a successful uprising against Polish rule. How-
materials. Their power was sufficient enough to repel an inva-
ever, treaties with Poland did not bring peace. Khmelnytskyi
sion by Persian King Darius I in about 513 BC. In 700-600 BC,
signed a protection agreement with the Russian tsar in 1654
Greek colonies appeared on the Black Sea coast. One of the
which marked the beginning of Russian influence in Ukraine.
first cities constructed was Kafa (now Feodosia). Chersonesus,
Poland and Russia divided Ukraine in 1667: the western side of
the second major Greek city, was established on the south-
the Dnieper River belonged to Poland, while the eastern side
west coast of Crimea. Germanic tribes invaded the region in
went under Russian protection.
270, followed by the Huns in 375.
By the end of 18th century Cossacks troops were totally liqui-
dated with increasing pressure, and a ban of the Ukrainian lan-
guage and culture. At the end of 19th century Kyiv had become
MoBile phones viSaS
a large industrial and transportation hub.
There are 2 types of mobile phone numbers in Kyiv: direct
numbers (which do not differ from the Kyiv fixed line num- Citizens of the eU, switzerland, liechtenstein, Andor-
bers, and may be dialed as such), and mobile numbers (these ra, Vatican, iceland, Monaco, norway, san Marino, uSSr
should be preceded by 0 and the operator’s code). SMS may georgia, Mongolia, the U.s., Canada, Japan and the
not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine countries of the Cis - except Turkmenistan - can enter WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution caused much confusion
are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else in Russia. This allowed for the formation of The Ukrainian
a contract or show your documents to use the local provid- needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian em- People’s Republic in Kyiv on 20 November 1917. On 1 De-
er’s service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, bassy or consulate abroad before travelling. cember of the same year, the Ukrainian Soviet Republic was
mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also Travel to Russia isn’t so simple. All foreign visitors, with the established in Kharkiv. In 1918, after the collapse of the Aus-
buy cards to refill your account at these same places. exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, trian-Hungarian Empire in November, the Western Ukraine
must obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an Golden Pectoral from Scythian times. It can be seen in People’s Republic declared itself an independent state in
KyivSTar immigration card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you the Museum of Historical Valuables Lviv. On 22 January 1919, a union of the two Ukrainian
QB-4, Khreschatyk 13, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually states was announced, but was quickly defeated by the
466 04 66, www.kyivstar.ua. willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. kyivan ruS White Russian and then the Red Armies in the East, and
liFe For additional information, call ([phone]. by Poland in the West. The Soviet Union was formed and
According to legend, Kyiv’s first settlement was founded in
QA-5, Besarabska pl. 2, MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 800 included the Ukrainian Soviet Socialist Republic. Millions of
Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andor- 482 by three brothers, Prince Kyi (the oldest), Scheck and
205 433, www.life.com.ua/index.php?lng=en. Open Ukrainians were deported to Siberia, and the artificially-en-
ra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for Khoryv, and their sister, Lybid. They supposedly sailed down
10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. gineered famines of 1921-1922 and 1932-1933 killed up to
30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas the Dnieper River and established a settlement at the top of
MTS without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we four hills. In the 8th - 9th centuries, Kyiv became the centre of 10 million people. In 1934, the Ukrainian Republic’s capital
QB-4, Khreschatyk 15, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state the first Eastern Slavic State, known as Kyivan Rus. Volodymyr was moved from Kharkiv to Kyiv. On 22 June 1941, The Ger-
240 00 00, www.mts.com.ua/eng. travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national the Great became prince of Kyivan Rus in 980. The state flour- mans invaded the USSR, and Kyiv was seized in September.
Kyiv was liberated in November 1943. It is estimated that
medical insurance, and must register their passports with lo- ished under his leadership, turning it into a political, econom-
RoAMing cal police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually ic and cultural power in Europe. In 988 Volodymyr resolved around 8 million Ukrainian soldiers and citizens were killed
To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +380 followed by willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. to abandon paganism in favour of monotheism. He chose during WWII, and Ukraine suffered a greater material losses
the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile For more information, call ([phone]. Christianity as the state religion and was christened in Cher- than Russia, Germany, France or Poland. Until the collapse
phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the sonesus. Kyivan Rus princes ruled until almost the end of the of the Soviet Union, Kyiv was the capital of the Ukrainian
Republic. p. 49
EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. 13 century, when Batu Khan, the grandson of Genghis Khan
can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all conquered Kyivan Rus in 1240 and burned down the city of
SMoking other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate Kyiv. In the 14th century Kyiv was taken over by Lithuania.
or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form
Rigorous law on smoking prohibition takes effect nation- and photos. For more information, call ([phone].
CoSSaCkS
wide on December 16, 2012. It sets a total ban on smok-
Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S.,
ing in restaurants, bars, clubs and cafes (except open ter- Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American In the 15th century Crimean Tatars dominated Ukraine’s
races), cultural, medical, educational and sport institutions countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 vast southern expanses and carried out devastating raids on
(including playgrounds and stadiums), public transport days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa Ukrainian territory and annihilated Kyiv in 1482. Gradually a
(including stops), underpasses (subways), and inside at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call force was formed to protect the southern frontier. These daring
apartment buildings (including stairs and lifts). All other ([phone]. troops were the Cossacks. The Cossack movement developed
premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, airports, poland, hungary and slovakia belong to the European and spread throughout the whole of Ukraine.
railway terminals) should have designated smoking areas Schengen zone. For more information call the following con- The Lithuanian authorities granted Kyiv the old European
equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets fines sulates: Polish ([phone], Hungarian ([phone] code of municipal self-government. Formally, according to the
from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law. 58 22, Slovakian consulate in Kyiv ([phone]. “Magdeburg Right”, the citizens of Kyiv were not subject to the Ukrainian Cossacks
10 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 11
Easter
This year the Catholics and Protestants celebrates Easter
together with Orthodox Church on April 20, what is – in
this part of the world - the biggest holiday of the year.
Coming after seven weeks of strict lent, during which the
faithful abstain from alcohol and any animal products (in-
cluding meat, fish, eggs, milk, butter and cheese), it is no
suprise that Easter is such a big deal. It can also come as
a surprise to many outsiders how strictly lent is observed
in Ukraine: so much so that many restaurants adapt their
menus to make sure they stay attractive to the faithful.
You will see a lot of people with
blooming willow branches com-
ing from church on April 13. Another
Easter morning recipe: take a basket, put in it Easter bread, some
much-observed tradition during this painted eggs, and whatever else you want to have blessed
last week of lent is Clean Thursday...
eAster eggs
Lent ends with Passion Week, starting on Palm Sunday, Ukrainian kids have not yet adopted the western tradi-
which is called Willow Sunday in Ukraine. Palm trees – you tion of hunting for Easter eggs on Easter Sunday yet, but
will not be surprised to hear - do not grow in Ukraine, and that is not to say the egg has no role to play in a Ukrainian
so the locals have to make do willow branches to mark Easter; far from it in fact. Every visitor to Ukraine should
the day when Jesus entered Jerusalem. You will see a lot look out for traditional Ukrainian Easter eggs, which
of people with blooming willow branches coming from make fantastic presents and souvenirs. You can buy them
church on April 13. Another much-observed tradition on Andriyivs’ky Uzviz and in a number of souvenir stores
during this last week of lent is Clean thursday. You are which offer a wide variety of them, from cheap wooden
supposed to clean everything in your house, including eggs to real, hand painted dried hen eggs. You can also
yourself, in preparation for Easter Sunday. buy very expensive and elaborately decorated wooden
Easter Saturday is given over to painting and colouring or ceramic eggs that are in themselves real pieces of
eggs, and to the baking of a special Easter bread, Paski. It art. The most impressive Easter eggs – and those most
is usually round, and richly decorated. Some have the letters familiar to westerners - are the jewel and gold covered
XB written in plain view. It is the abbreviation for “Christ is Faberge eggs, created by the Russian Tsar’s court jeweller
risen” in Ukrainian (Khrystos Voskres). There is also a slightly Karl Faberge at the end of the 19th century.
different paska, which resembles a cheesecake. All this spe- The patterns and colours on contemporary eggs are deep-
cial food is supposed to be cooked before Easter day. ly rooted in history. Many are borrowed from Tripillian
The Orthodox Church begins its Easter service on Satur- culture, which existed on the territory of Ukraine about
day night, and it continues through Sunday morning. The 6000 years ago. In Pagan culture the egg symbolised life,
city administration usually ensures public transport runs though the meaning changed slightly in 988 when Kyiv
throughout the night. Thousands of believers go to differ- adopted Christianity. In Christianity, the egg represented
ent Churches all over town with baskets full of Easter food. eternal life and the Resurrection of Christ.
After the festive services – which usually come complete There are in general two kinds of coloured eggs in
Orthodox Easter
with joyful choir music - priests go outside the Church to Ukraine today: krashanky (dyed in solid colour), and
bless the food. People line up in a circle around the church pysanky (decorated with different patterns and colours).
building and patiently await their blessing. The traditional dyes have always been home made, and
For the whole of the following week people greet each by and large the tradition continues. The most popular
other with the words Khrystos Voskres, and answer dye is an onion peel boiled in water. The intricate pro-
Voistynu Voskres, which means “He has truly risen.” This cess of painting a pysanky egg involves multiple steps
is followed by three kisses on the cheeks, which can be and drawing various patterns, often more than once, on
a bit unusual for western sensibilities, but which is per- the eggshell with wax. The egg is then immersed into
fectly acceptable here. It is recommended that you do progressively darker dyes, and the wax is melted off with
not reject this act of well wishing so as not to hurt any- a candle between each stage of colouring. Some of the
one’s feelings. The central gates that hide the altars of artists who sell painted eggs will be happy to give les-
Orthodox Churches, and which usually stay closed, are sons in this traditional technique.
Ukrainian traditions
opened during Easter week to show the importance of Every colour and pattern has its own meaning. For exam-
the holiday. Everyone is allowed to see this – the most sa- ple, red symbolises love, black - eternity, and blue - trust.
cred place in the Church. It is a great opportunity to see The triangle stands for the Trinity, a circle - eternity and the
some of the greatest treasaures of the Orthodux Church. sun, and the hen - fertility.
facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 13
Events Events
Kyiv hosts some great performances in a range of artistic 30 March 2014 Until 14 April 2014, J Grether Art Gallery
oPerA & bAllet
fields, from opera and ballet to classical music and art exhi- EnSEMBlE Of SOlOISTS KyIvSKA KAMERETA. EAST
bitions. The best part is that you can visit such high-quality Conductor - Valeriy Matiukhin. The programme features G. The exhivition represents works by Renat Ramazanov and
events for much less than in the rest of Europe. Students Mahler, K. Atterberg, F. List, A. Pärt, V. Silvestrov, E. Stanko- Alexandr Sybru. The ciltural and patriotic theme of the ex- TARAS SHEvCHEnKO nATIOnAl OPERA
really have it good with their discounts. Films are usually vych. Tickets 50 - 100 Hr. hibition is as actual in the view of all changes happening in Home of the country’s most famous opera and ballet
dubbed in Ukrainian without English subtitles, so unless it’s kraine now. The models for the paintings were Crimean ta- company. This is a must visit venue for all travellers.
a Jackie Chan movie it may be hard to follow the plot. Pre- 31 March 2014 tars, as one of the national minorities in Ukraine, known for Performances are always outstanding and the hum-
pare to book tickets at the desk as you would for a baseball THE nIGHT Of CHAMBER OPERA. their fight for the justice and yearning for their homeland. ble ticket prices make this the city’s best value in en-
or football match, as you will be asked to choose a particular With the support of the Embassy of Italy in Ukraine. The tertainment. QA-4, Volodymyrska 50, tel. (+380) 44
seat - and you may pay a little more for the upper-deck. programme features D. Cimarosa, W. Mozart. With the par- Until 27 April 2014, Pinchuk Ary Centre 234 71 65, www.opera.com.ua. Tickets 40-200 Hr.
ticipation of Academic Symphonic Orchestra of the Nation- JAn fABRE.
al Philharmonic of Ukraine. Tickets 50-100 Hr. TRIBuTE TO HIëROnyMuS BOSCH In COnGO March
ClAssICAl MusIC
TRIBuTE TO BElGIAn COnGO Opera
01 April 2014
The first solo show in Eastern Europe by the Belgian artist Jan
nATIOnAl PHIlHARMOnIC nATIOnAl ACADEMIC BRASS ORCHESTRA. Fabre. The show features 36 astonishing mosaics, 23 sculp- 25 19:00 Aleko S. Rachmaninoff.
Conductor - Mykhailo Moroz. The programme features G. Bolero Maurice Ravel.
A unique and moving place to unwind to classical music. tures and 2 major triptychs, including 28 new works created
Artists perform close to the audience allowing for an in- Rossini, J. Strauss, S. Guno, S. Rachmaninoff, E. Morricone, especially for the exhibition in the PinchukArtCentre. 29 19:00 Il Barbiere di Siviglia G. Rossini.
G. Penders.
timate musical experience. The atmosphere is intriguing With a two-chapter exhibition Fabre continues elaborating Ballet
and the acoustics are surprisingly good for a box.QD-4, 02 April 2014 his critical reflections on the Belgium’s colonial past, a theme
Volodymyrs’kyi uzviz 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. nATIOnAl ACADEMIC SyMPHOnIC ORCHESTRA. that appeared in his oeuvre in 2002 when he used millions 27 19:00 Giselle A. Adam.
([phone], www.filarmonia.com.ua. Conductor - Fedir Gluschenko (Russia). Soloist - Oleg Poly- of beetle wings to created a monumental ceiling painting
28 19:00 La Sylphide H. Levenshold.
anskyi (piano part). The programme features J. Sibelius “Heaven of Delight” for the Royal Palace of Belgium in Brussels.
24 March 2014 30 19:00 Lilea K. Dankevych.
- Symphony #1, S. Prokofiev - Concert #1 for piano with
nATIOnAl SyMPHOnIC ORCHESTRA.
orchestra, A. Scriabin - The Poem of Ecstasy. April
Conductor - Volodymyr Sirenko. The programme features
works by A. Scriabin, N. Medtner, S. Rachmaninoff. Tickets Opera
03 April 2014
50 - 100Hr. 03 19:00 Carmen G. Bizet.
THE ART Of PIAnO PlAy.
26 March 2014 Performance by Pavel Nersesyan (Russia). The programme 04 19:00 La traviata G. Verdi.
SHInInG WAlTz features P. Hhindemit - Dances, F. Shubert - Piano Sonata 06 19:00 L’elisir d’amore G. Donizetti.
Piano part by Tetiana Andrievska, violin part - Igor Andrievs- A major, F. Shubert - F. List - Serenade, The Forest King, F.
09 19:00 Boris Godunov M. Mussorgsky.
kyi. The program features works by F. Schubert, F. List, E. List - Sonata B minor.
Grieg, M. Ravel, C. Saint-Saëns. Tickets 45 - 90Hr. 11 19:00 Aleko S. Rachmaninoff.
04 April 2014 Chopiniana F. Chopin.
27 March 2014
vIOlIn MuSIC. 12 19:00 Don Carlos G. Verdi.
THE nIGHTS Of uKRAInIAn MuSIC.
Heritage and contemporary. National Academic Orchestra With the support of the Embassy of Italy in Ukraine. Solo- Chornobyl video installation 16 19:00 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.
ist - Domenico Nordio (Italy). With the participation of Aca-
of the Folk Instruments. Conductor - Viktor Gutsal. Tickets 18 19:00 Aida G. Verdi.
demic Symphonic Orchestra of the National Philharmonic.
50 - 100Hr. Conductor - Mykola Diadura. The programme features L. Until 27 April 2014. Pinchuk art Centre 20 19:00 Natalka Poltavka M. Lysenko.
(DE-)COnSTRuCTIOn. REAlITy AnD fICTIOn
Beethoven - The Concert for Violin with Orchestra, Sym- This exhibition features three videos by Pierre Huyghe (“The 23 19:00 Rigoletto G. Verdi.
phony #3 Eroica.
host and the cloud”, 2010, France), Christian Marclay (“Cross- 25 19:00 Il Barbiere di Siviglia G. Rossini.
fire”, 2007, US) and Diana Thater (“Chernobyl”, 2011, US). These
30 19:00 Un ballo in maschera G. Verdi.
major video installations share the theme of constructing and/
exhIbItIons or deconstructing culturally defined concepts. The works es- Ballet
Until 31 March, Manufactura Art Gallery tablish a tension between reality and fiction, challenging the 01 19:00 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
RuRAl lAnDSCAPES viewers’ relations towards these notions. Schedule of screen- 02 19:00 Serge Lifar Tribute Concert.
«Rural Landscape», the foundation of which was the works ings: 12:30, 14:34, 16:38, 18:42. Located on the 3rd floor.
05 19:00 Romeo and Juliet S. Prokofiev.
of Anton Hudzykevych - young Ukrainian artist whose tal-
ent is recognised in Ukraine and abroad. He is a permanent Until 27 April 2014. Pinchuk art Centre 08 19:00 The Sleeping Beauty P. Tchaikovsky.
“WHERE THERE’S A WIll, THERE’S A WAy”
participant of annual exhibitions and projects in Ukraine 10 19:00 La Bayadere L. Minkus.
On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the Elena Pinchuk
and his paintings can be found in the Livadia Palace,
ANTIAIDS Foundation, the PinchukArtCentre and the ANTI- Karmen - Suite G. Bizet - R. Shcedrin.
Symphonic Orchestra performs in the Philharmonic Hall Kroshytskiy Art Museum, Ukrainian Modern Art Museum, AIDS Foundation present a special exhibition dedicated to the 13 19:00 Sheherazade N. Rimsky-Korsakov.
private collections in Ukraine and abroad. The eshibition
28 March 2014 will also show several works of landscape artists of inter- theme of HIV/AIDS in contemporary art. The project includes 15 19:00 Viennese waltz J. Strauss.
All SyMPHOnIES By P. TCHAIKOvSKy. national level, prominent artists of Ukraine,whose names iconic works by Damien Hirst, Ai Weiwei, Nan Goldin and Félix 17 19:00 La Sylphide H. Levenshold.
Amcoandiecm oifc USkyrmainpeh.o Cnoicn dOurcchtoers t-r aR oomf tahne KNoafmtioanna. lT hPhe ilphraor-- sgpeeya Bka fkoar ethv e(1m9s2e2lv –e2s0: N10ic)h, Voilcatso Br oErfitmnikeonvk o(1 (9b1o6r n- 1in9 9179)5, 7S)e.r- Gthoen ezxáhleibz-itTioornre, isn. cFliuvdei nnge wa l aprgieec escs awlee oreu tcdroeoart evdid eeosp percoiajellcyt iofonr 19 19:00 The Forest Song M. Skorylsky.
gramme features Symphony #1 (Winter Dreams), Sympho- by Tony Oursler; a multimedia project created by Nan Goldin in 22 19:00 Raymonda A. Glazunov.
ny #6 (Pathetic). Tickets 30 - 120Hr. Ukraine in the lead up to the exhibition; a video by Ai Weiwei; a 24 19:00 Don Quixote L. Minkus.
photo by Sergiy Bratkov; and a performance by Ilya Chichkan.
14 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 15
Events Events
JAKOB GRETHER ART-CEnTRE
MusIC events kyIv dAys
CIrCus The Jakob Grether art-centre represents contemporary art,
mostly in paintings and sculpture. The exhibitions shows
22 Mar - Mgzavrebi @ Carribean Club Tickets 60-180Hr.QG-2, Peremohy pl. 2, MUniversytet, works by the most significant Ukrainian artists as well as For those of us who live here - or simply come to visit
30 Mar - Kosheen @ Sentrum tel. [phone]. Shows Thu, Fri - 19:00; Sat, Sun young talents and different international projects. The - the capital is unquestionably at its very best on Kyiv
- 13:00 and 17:00. exhibitions are scheduled to change every month. Admis- Day, which this year falls on May 25th. Every district
2 Apr - Nino Katamadze @ October Palace
sion is free.QE-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, Bilshovyk Shop- of town hosts a steady flow of great entertainment in
4 Apr - Skryabin @ Stereo Plaza theAtres ping Mall, block A, 3-7 floor, MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) many of the city’s parks and on its many outdoor con-
9 Apr - Illaria @ The House of Painters 44 200 07 60, [email protected], www.greter-art. cert stages. Amateur and professional artists share their
CAfé-THEATRE KOlESO com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. varied talents with huge audiences all day long.
11 Apr - Flëur @ The House of Officers The audience is invited to participate in humorous, folk-
25 Apr - Turetsky Choir @ Ukraine Palace lore-based programmes staged in this café setting.QC-2, KARAS GAllERy Artists from all over the country come to Kyiv with their
25 Apr - Steve Vai @ Sentrum Andriivs’kyi uzviz 8, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) A one stop shop for 19th century architecture and con- arts and crafts, meaning that you can often find great
44 425 05 27, www.koleso.teatr.kiev.ua. Tickets 20-50Hr. temporary Ukrainian art on Kyiv’s most famous street. bargains on souvenirs, if you shop around. A number
10 May - Peter Gabriel @ Ukraine Palace of street traders will charge more at this time of year:
Karas Gallery created one of the most systematic collec-
11 May - Nina Matvienko @ Musical Academy IvAn fRAnKO nATIOnAl ACADEMIC DRAMA tions of Contemporary Art in Ukraine – over 300 works by whatever you buy make sure you know how much it
16 May - Korn & Soulfly @ Stereo Plaza The theatre was built in 1898, and the theatre troop, the most famous Ukrainian artists. QC-2, Andriivs’kyi uz- costs elsewhere. Every year thousands of people fill
named after the famous Ukrainian writer Ivan Franko, viz 22A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. [phone] Andriivs’kyi Uzviz, looking for bargains or simply enjoy-
16 May - С.К.А.Й. @ Yunost Club has been performing since 1926. The repertoire consists 31, [email protected], www.karasgallery.com. ing the atmosphere. The crowd is usually so huge that
17 May - White lies @ Sentrum of classical, dramatic and musical performances. Perfor- Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. just crossing what is a barrow street can take ten min-
mances are in Ukrainian.QC-5, I.Franka pl. 3, MKhres- utes. It’s all part of the fun, however.
23 May - Antytila @ Sentrum
chatyk, tel. [phone], www.franko-theatre. M17
25 May - W.A.S.P. @ Bingo Enterntainment kiev.ua. Tickets 15 - 150Hr. Аvant-garde art gallery is a pioneer, a scout in the con-
30 May - Jesse Cook @ October Palace temporary art world. M17 Gallery has a symbolic meaning,
31 May - Boombox @ Stereo Plaza KyIv ACADEMy DOll THEATRE codified in this strict minimalist abbreviation: “M” – young
This theatre replaced an old movie house near European (ukr – “Molod”), 17 - time of maturity.QH-5, Gor’koho
8 June - Mireille Mathieu @ Ukraine Palace
Sq. There are two halls in the thearte: the large hall on 102-104, MPalats Ukraina, tel. [phone],
17 June - Tori Amos @ October Palace the first floor hosts up to 300 guests, the small one on [email protected], m17.com.ua/en. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
Tickets to most major events are available from: the second floor hosts up to 100. The repertoire includes Closed Mon.
a wide variety of children’s shows and ticket prices are
KARABAS very reasonable.QD-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 1A, MMaid- PInCHuKARTCEnTRE
QA-5, Metrograd mall, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) an Nezalezhnosti, tel. [phone], www. PinchukArtCentre is one of the biggest international cen-
44 590 55 50, www.karabas.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00. akadempuppet.kiev.ua. tres for contemporary art of the 21st century in the Eastern
PARTER Europe. Among its main activities – exhibition running,
QC-4, Horodetskoho 8 (Red Double Bus), MMaid- KyIv yOunG THEATRE cultural projects support, stipend granting to talented art- Khreschatyk, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, and European
an Nezalezhnosti, tel. [phone], www. Innovative performance styles based on classical produc- ists, etc. The first “New Space” exhibition, opened at Pinchu- Square will all be dotted with different sized stages and
parter.ua. Open 12:00 - 20:00. tions, incorporating modern interpretations of historical kArtCentre from 16th of September till 16th of December will host a variety of performances; they will also have
experience.QB-4, H-2, Prorizna 17, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 2006, has been attended by 35 000 persons.QA-5, H-3, plenty of places to eat and drink. At the end of the day
Concert halls: ([phone]. Chervonoarmiys’ka 1-3, Arena Complex, ML’va Tolsto- there are fireworks and concerts way past midnight in
MuSICAl ACADEMy ho, tel. [phone], info@ the city’s central squares.
QC-4, Horodetskoho 1-3/11, MKhreschatyk, tel. lESyA uKRAInKA RuSSIAn DRAMA THEATRE pinchukartcentre.org, www.pinchukartcentre.org/en. Whatever you do on Kyiv Day, wear your most comfort-
([phone]. This tradition-rich Russian venue was established in 1926 Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. able walking shoes, dress appropriately for the weather
and is often referred to as the ‘theatre of the human
PAlACE Of SPORT conditions (it can still be changeable at this time of
QA-5, Sportyvna pl. 1, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) soul’. Performances are in Russian language.QB-4, H-3, TRyPTyCH year), and enjoy yourself. It will be the best memory
44 246 74 06, www.spalace.com.ua. B.Khmel’nyts’koho 5, MTeatral’na, tel. [phone] Contemporary decorative art.QC-3, H-2, Desiatynna 13, you will take home from Kyiv.
42 23, www.rusdram.com.ua. Tickets 7-75Hr. MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. [phone], info@
SEnTRuM
triptych-art.com, www.triptych-art.com. Open 11:00 -
QC-4, Shota Rustaveli 16A, MPalats Sportu, tel.
19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
([phone], www.sentrum.com.ua.
Art gAllerIes
STEREO PlAzA TSEKH GAllERy
QF-4, Chervonozoryanyi prosp. 119, tel. (+380) 44 BRuCIE COllECTIOnS The main feature of Tsekh Gallery is a “production” of new
222 80 40, stereoplaza.com.ua. The gallery operates since 2008, specializing in photog- names. The gallery was created in 2008 and since then has
OCTOBER PAlACE raphy exclusively. The collection contains photographs become the most active show ground. Its strategy is inter-
QC-4, Instytutska 1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. by Helmut Newton, Sebastiao Salgado, Leni Riefenstahl, esting both for attendants and for art-critics. On the gallery
([phone]. Albert Watson, Howard Schatz, as well as works by the walls, there are always a provocation and surprise, which
best local artists.QG-2, Artema 55B, MLuk’yanivs’ka, cause ambiguous reaction of viewers and “transpositions”
.uQKHR-A4,I nChEe PrvAolnAoCarEmiys’ka 103, MPalats Ukraina, tberlu. c(i+e3c8o0ll)e c4t4io 3n5s.3c o1m2 . 3O4p/(e+n3 8101): 0404 - 21095:0 402, S6a4t , 1w1:w00w -. kinas,i dtee lt. h(e+ 3ar8t0-fi) e9ld5. Q24M5 -768, F8r1u/n(+ze3 8609), M44 T5a9r1a s1a3 S 6h9e,v wchwewn-.
tel. [phone]:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Free entrance. zeh.com.ua. Open 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
16 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 17
Where to stay Where to stay
As with all emerging Eastern European countries, the quality
syMbol key
and service on offer in Ukraine’s hotels and apartments can
vary to the greatest degree, and Kyiv is only now beginning
to showcase its traditions of fine service. Although there is P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
still a shortage of upscale accommodation in the city centre,
many smaller and less prestigious hotels and apartments are T Child-friendly H Conference facilities
beginning to appear. Private companies offering newly reno-
F Fitness centre U Facilities for the disabled
vated apartments can meet the needs of almost any clien-
tele, and renting an apartment on a nightly basis is a sensible R LAN connection L Guarded parking
K Restaurant 6 Pet-friendly
D Sauna C Swimming pool
I Fireplace W Wifi
VAT (20%) and breakfast included unless otherwise
stated
HOlIDAy Inn KIEv
Holiday Inn has found its place in our city on a quiet lane
locked between two business streets. It features all your
The Brand new Hilton Hotel is scheduled to open in March 2014! Holiday Inn favourites including the usual agreeable 208
rooms. Facilities include business centre, conference room,
alternative to a hotel. It’s considerably cheaper, and the ad- restaurant and bar with terrace, fitness area on 11th floor
vantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are with panoramic view. Wi-Fi is free all over the hotel. In the
real. Hotels remain most people’s first choice however, and best of HI traditions, the hotel is perfect for business travel-
new places are being constructed all over the city. Like Kyiv In lers and you know exactly what you are going to get for your
Your Pocket, the city is growing... Prices include breakfast and money. QH-4, Chervonoarmiyska 100, MOlimpiiska,
VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. tel. [phone], fax [phone], sales. OPERA ties available for meetings or banquets.QB-3, Yaroslaviv
[email protected], www.holidayinn.com/Kiev. 208 rooms The Opera Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel which offers some- Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, tel. [phone], fax
CreAM of the CroP (180 Standards €150, 26 Executives €175, 2 Suites €225). thing unique for its guests. Staying in the Opera Hotel, you ([phone], reservations.kiev@radissonblu.
PHAUFLGKW hhhh will not only enjoy the exquisite interior design, feast on fabu- com, www.radissonblu.com.ua/hotel-kiev. 255 rooms
fAIRMOnT GRAnD HOTEl KyIv lous food and enjoy a glass of exquisite wine near a fireplace, (183 standard €202 - 293, 49 business class €252 - 343,
A great Luxury hotel right on the river Dnipro. Seldom HyATT REGEnCy KyIv but you will also feel right at home, although home may be junior Suite €303 - 394, suite €626, 1 Presidental €1111).
have we been more impressed by a hotel’s elegance. Hyatt Regency Kyiv is centrally located in the historical oceans away. The Opera Hotel is located just 15 minutes from Breakfast is not included in the price of a standard room.
Marble floors, stained glass windows, lovely chandeliers, centre on Sofiivs’ka Square. The hotel is the ideal address downtown Kyiv and Khreschatyk Street allowing one to be in PTHARUFLGKDW hhhh
and a stunning classic design and it goes on. Each of the for business and leisure travellers alike. With high-tech touch with Kyiv’s business and social life, but away from the
258 rooms is fully equipped and beautifully designed with communications and ergonomic working areas, 234 spa- busy downtown area. Business club, lobby lounge, confer- RADISSOn Blu KyIv PODIl
large comfy beds. There are also Presidential and Royal cious deluxe rooms and 25 suites provide the perfect set- ence rooms and spa and fitness club are all a part of the lux- A latest entry in Podil historical district for this famous hotel
Suites for all you presidents, kings and queens. There are ting for the discerning global business traveller. Luxurious ury facilities offered to guests.QA-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, chain. Rooms are ranged traditionally for Radisson BLU world-
discounted rates for weekends and package offers are bathrooms with underfloor heating, deep-soaking baths MUniversytet, tel./fax [phone], reservations@ wide from standards to suites, meanwhile if you’re a Presi-
available. The entire staff is friendly and great in English. and exceptional rain showers create a unique in-room ex- opera-hotel.com, www.opera-hotel.com. 136 rooms (clas- dent, the Presidential Suite awaits for you for about 10000Hr.
Their restaurant The Strand Grill is open to the public daily perience. State-of-the-art meeting and banquet facilities sic 1900 - 2800Hr, standard 2200 - 3400Hr, superior 2800 There is a gym and convenient underground parking. The
from 06:30-midnight. Breakfast is not included and costs with 1,000 square meters of function space accommodate - 4000Hr, junior suite 4600 - 5800Hr, executive suite 7000 Starokyivsky Restaurant & Lounge has gorgeous marble fur-
35€.QD-3, Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska 1, MPosh- all needs, from small meetings to large-scale events. Luxu- - 8200Hr). PARUFLGKD hhhhh nishing and a classic, elegant interior, creating an ideal dining
tova Ploscha, tel. [phone], fax (+380) 44 rious Spa Natural with its advanced treatments, a gym atmosphere. The chef treats guests to delicious international
322 88 99, [email protected], www.fairmont.com/ with the latest equipment, a 25-meter swimming pool, RADISSOn Blu and Ukrainian main courses, pastries and deluxe desserts.
kyiv. 258 rooms (202 Fairmont rooms €, 52 suites €, 1 restaurants and bars make Hyatt Regency Kyiv one of Radisson hotels worldwide have a reputation for excel- The wine list has an wide selection of international and local
Presidential Suite €, 1 Royal Suite €, Rates €319 - 2000). the best hotels in Kyiv.QC-3, A.Tarasovoi 5A, MMaidan lence and Kyiv’s is no exception. The Radisson BLU Kyiv wines. There is seating for 70 and an average meal will run
PZTHAUFLGKDwW hhhhh Nezalezhnosti, tel. [phone], fax (+380) 44 offers its guests wireless access to the Internet around the around 400Hr. There is a business lunch weekdays from 12:00-
581 12 35, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. 234 rooms clock, and for the technologically challenged the IT-savvy 16:00 from 97Hr. The Cafe 17 is a nice bright coffee shop with a
hotel lIstIng PolICy (standard €328 - 585, deluxe €353 - 610, club €378 - 635, concierge is a classy touch. The spacious rooms, furnished street entrance. There are sandwiches, salads, and pastries all
regency suite €578 - 835). PTJHAR6U� in three different styles, include plenty of satellite TV chan- at reasonable prices. QD-2, Bratska 17-19, MKontraktova
FLGKDCW hhhhh nels, in-house movies, coffee/teamaker, a trouser press, Ploscha, tel. [phone], fax [phone],
Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by safe and hairdryer. Business class rooms and suites are [email protected], www.radissonblu.ru/
alphabetical order within that band. The price band more spacious and include a few extra perks like buffet hotel-kyiv-podil. 164 rooms (138 standards , 2 for disables
refers to the rack rate for a double room.. breakfast and daily newspapers. The hotel is well geared- , 15 business rooms , 5 suites , 1 presidential ). Pi�
up for events, with its state-of-the art conference facili- HAFLGKDW hhhh
18 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 19