Get a PERFECT FIT Tools & Techniques for Great-Fitting Garments Your Fitting Questions Answered!

85 Pages·2013·9.24 MB·English

TH
E B Your Fitting Questions Answered!
EST O
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Get a
PERFECT FIT
Tools & Techniques for
Great-Fitting Garments
Choose the RIGHT
PATTERN SIZE for YOU
Sew the Best-Fitting
Pants—EVER!
How to FIT KEY
AREAS—Shoulders,
Arms, Back, Waist & More
SPRING 2013 Threads is now
THREADSMAGAZINE.COM
available on tablets
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presents... a revolutionary approach to fitting
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NEW
Item Number: 031038 ©2013 The Taunton Press Inc.
THE BEST OF
SSPPRRIINNGG 22001133
FFeeaattuurreess
GOOD MEASURES
31
14 Measure It Right Adaptable
dress form
Precise and accurate measurements yield
a better-fi tting garment
BY BARBARA EMODI
20 Measuring and Marking Notions
Tools that help you fi t and fi nish garments
BY MARY ROEHR
26 Does Your Pattern Fit?
Before cutting, check your pattern’s
measurements against your own
BY BARBARA EMODI
31 Fit for Everyone
Sew removable covers to make your dress form
work for multiple fi gures
BY KENNETH D. KING
FIT STRATEGIES ps;
hilli
P
38 Muslin Refined Scott
nt,
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A couture method leads to exquisite garments n fr
o
BY SUSAN KHALJE ers
h
44 Smart Fitting all ot
d;
A simple way to assess and solve your fi t challenges war
o
BY KENNETH D. KING n H
a
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51 Fine-tune the Tissue nt) Sl
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B ToY a MudAiRtiCoYn yToIuLTr OpaNttern, pin it together and try it on easure, frward
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5 6 BT DYoh nCe’tL BaAlUteeDsr EtsTo CTmEue GbsotRdoAyNm eTls Pe’sa pnatttsern—draft your own Cover photos: (tape (back cover) Sloan H
SIP29_CT_Contents.indd 4 2/28/13 2:39 PM
64
shoulder
focus
FOCUSED FITTING
64 Start at the Shoulders
86
Your shoulder slope a≠ ects the fi t of every outfi t,
so alter patterns to match your body
space for a
BY JUDITH NEUKAM AND CAROL FRESIA midsection
70 G et the Right Armhole
Use a muslin to adjust bust, back, and shoulder—
and your armhole almost takes care of itself
BY SARAH VEBLEN
76 The Perfect Sleeve
Start with two simple measurements
and correct the sleeve cap
BY SARAH VEBLEN 56
82 Add a Bust Dart
draft
This adjustment for a full bust dart a pants
pattern
fl atters the entire silhouette
BY LOUISE CUTTING
86 Full & Fabulous
How to accommodate a large midsection
BY KATHLEEN CHEETHAM
92 Scale It Down
ps;
hilli Fitting petite fi gures requires more than
ott P a size change
ont, Sc BY KATHLEEN CHEETHAM 38
n fr
o
hers Departments perfecting
all ot the muslin
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oa Q & A 8
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threadsmagazine.com
SIP29_CT_Contents.indd 5 3/6/13 2:47 PM
EDITOR’S NOTE
Sewing perfection is
a garment that fi ts THE BEST OF
A
sk garment sewers why they make their own
clothes, and a great fi t is inevitably a part of
their answer. None of us is a standard size—
and vive la di≠ érence! Our variety of beautiful shapes
From the Publisher of
means that getting a good fi t from an o≠ -the-rack
garment or an out-of-the-package pattern is not a
®
reality for most. However, with knowledge about how
to sew for fi t, you can create garments that make you
look and feel spectacular. Editor Deana Tierney May
Deana Tierney May To help you do that, this issue brings together some Art Director Rosann Berry
Editor of the best fitting articles from Threads’ 27-year his-
Senior Technical Editor Judith Neukam
tory, written by renowned fitting experts. Whether
Special Issues Carol Fresia
you’re new to garment fitting or you want to tackle a
Technical Editor
particularly challenging problem, you’ll find answers
Senior Editor Sarah McFarland
*we’d love on the following pages.
Associate Editor Stephani L. Miller
Get started by taking good measurements and dis-
to hear
covering the best tools for the job. Learn how to iden- Central Sta≠ Editor Sarah Opdahl
from you!
tify and solve fitting issues. (You’ll see that there’s Senior Copy/ Jeannine Clegg
often more than one way to fix a problem.) Make a Production Editor
muslin to experiment freely, and learn what methods Assistant Art Director Gloria Melfi
Send your letters to:
work best for you. Or, draft a pattern directly to your
Threads Letters Administrative April Mohr
PO Box 5506 measurements, eliminating a lot of fitting adjust- Assistant
Newtown, CT 06470-5506 ments right off the bat. Finally, learn how to fine-tune Contributing Editors Louise Cutting
or via email
the fit on the areas that need adjusting. We cover Susan Khalje
[email protected] Kenneth D. King
shoulders, armholes, sleeves, bust, waist, how to scale Mary Ray
down a pattern, and more.
Seamstress Norma Bucko
With this issue in hand, you can create and sew gar-
Interns Courtney Campbell
ments that fit like a dream in no time!
Emily Berube
Happy sewing and happy fitting! Dana Finkle
—Deana Tierney May Executive Editor, Books Shawna Mullen
Editor
For more fi tting ThreadsMagazine.com
advice: Executive Web Producer Victoria North
Threads magazine
Web Producer Evamarie Gomez
(ThreadsMagazine.com)
covers garment fi tting
regularly. Also look for Taunton’s SewStylish: (ISSN: 1935-8482) is published by The aal
S
Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Telephone 203-426- a
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6 THREADS
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BASIC TRA●I NSPINRIGN TGO 2 U0N1L3E AFSAHSH YIOOUNR S CEWREIANTGIV GITUYIDE
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Prices are subject to change. © 2013 The Taunton Press
Q
How you lengthen a skirt
A pattern depends on the style
& Q I’ve heard that most patterns are sized for a 5-foot,
Group Publisher Maria Taylor
6-inch-tall body. I’m taller. What’s the best way to
[email protected]
add length to a skirt pattern?
VP, Advertising Sales Rick Straface
—J.R. Laurie, Portland, Oregon [email protected]
Advertising Sales Clare Liberis
Karen Howland responds: Adding length to patterns and to ready-to-wear is Director 203-304-3532
A
[email protected]
something with which I am familiar; I’m 6 feet 2 inches tall. At first thought, the
solution appears to be as simple as adding extra length to the bottom. However, if a Custom Solutions Brenden Delaney
Manager 203-304-3590
silhouette tapers or flares, it’s not that simple. [email protected]
When you add significant length to a skirt by extending the side seams, a flared skirt Associate Advertising Tracey Lenahan
can end up with a hem that’s wider than your fabric; and a tapered skirt can end up Sales Manager 203-304-3540
[email protected]
with a hem edge that is so narrow you can’t walk.
Advertising Sales Diana Mackey
The style of your skirt determines whether it’s best to add length at the lower edge
Assistant
or at the lengthen/shorten lines printed (or added) on your pattern. When you spread
a skirt in the middle of its length, you have to true the seams, which means straight- Senior Advertising Karen Lutjen
Marketing and
ening the jagged seamline that forms when the seamlines are broken between the pat- Operations Manager
tern segments. There may be other fit considerations, as well, when spreading pattern Assistant Advertising Kandace Doyle
segments. Here are general guidelines for lengthening skirts. Marketing Manager
Member Audit
Adapted from the Threads Fitting Department, no. 117, by Karen Howland. Bureau of Circulation
T117 FG a
Digital Marketing Sara Ezrin Larsen
Director
Lengthen straight styLes at the hem
Senior Consumer Melissa Robinson
Marketing Manager
On straight-cut skirt patterns, usually you can add Draw a new hem-
the desired extra length successfully at the hem. line and hem Director, eCommerce Michael Stoltz
allowance at an
Extend the seams by continuing the line from
equal distance
the upper section, retaining the angle of the from the original
seams. If there is a slight flare, the lower edge will hemline to estab-
be fuller than the original. lish the new length.
Independent publishers since 1975
Founders, Paul & Jan Roman
President Timothy Rahr
Lengthen FLared and tapered garments above the hemLine CFO Richard Browning
Group Publisher Anatole Burkin
Don’t just add length to the hem edge of flared or tapered sTk1i1rt7s FoGr ybo-u1 could end up
with a hem thatT’s1 1w7 FiGd 4e-ar than your fabric or one that’s too narrow to walk in. Group Publisher Maria Taylor
T117 FG 4b
SVP, Creative & Editorial Susan Edelman
Flared skirt SVP, Operations Thomas Luxeder
VP, Single Copy Sales Jay Annis
To add length
Cut the pattern
to a flared skirt VP, Consumer Marketing Nancy Hallberg
piece along the
pattern, produce lengthen/shorten VP, Advertising Sales Rick Straface
a better-fitting line.
VP & Controller Wayne Reynolds
pattern, and True the
VP, Finance Kathy Worth
retain the lower seams. ola
edge’s original VP, Human Resources Carol Marotti azz
M
dimension, add VP, Fulfillment Patricia Williamson n
bi
length at the Ro
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8 THREADS
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T117 FG b-2
T117 FG b-3
Tapered skirt Adjusting the pattern piece on a tapered skirt changes
the dart and maintains the way the fabric drapes.
If you are using an unforgiving fabric or adding
significant length to a tapered skirt, the following
dart adjustment will improve your results:
1. Cut along the lengthen/shorten line and separate 1⁄2 inch
the pattern the amount of the additional length.
Cut here.
2. Lay a straightedge (ruler) from the widest point
on the upper pattern segment to the hem at the
side seam, to indicate the new side seamline. Be
Dart shape Spread the
sure to keep the center front/back of both segments
pattern piece
in alignment. Notice the dart shape between the
to fill the dart.
side seam and the straightedge.
3. Draw a line parallel to the center line from the
waist dart point down to the lower edge of the
upper skirt pattern segment. Slash along this line
True the seams.
to 1⁄2 inch from the dart point, and spread the slash
until the side seam meets the straightedge between
the hip and hem. The waist dart will close slightly.
Spread the pattern
(This adjustment isn’t necessary on minimally
piece the amount of
tapered skirts.)
the added length.
4. Fill the void formed by cutting and spreading
with new tissue paper, and tape it in place.
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www.threadsmagazine.com Spring 2013 9
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TECHNIQUES • COMMUNITY • PROJECTS • SEWING NEWS • CONTESTS & MORE
Expert Fitting Advice and More!
By following the detailed steps, you’ll have your own pattern in no time.
Accurate measure-
MEASUREMENTS FROM
ments are a must for MY FAVORITE CLOTHES
Ease
achieving a good fit. Preferred ease for fitted clothes
You can get them Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4
= _________ total = _________ total
by measuring your Preferred ease for semifitted clothes
Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4
favorite, well-fitting = _________ total = ____ _____ total
Preferred ease for loosely fit clothes
clothes. Download Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4
= _________ total = _________ total
Susan Lazear’s print-
Preferred ease for nonfitted clothes
able measurement Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4
= _________ total = _________ total
chart to learn how. Preferred ease for ______________ clothes
Bust _________ inch pinch X 4 Hip ________ inch pinch X 4
= _________ total = _________ total
Preferred ease for fitted sleeves:
___________ inch pinch X 2
= ___________ total
Preferred ease for nonfitted sleeves:
___________ inch pinch X 2
= __________ total Once you have proper body measure-
ments, try your hand at pattern drafting.
BOdY dIMENSIONS
Measure the clothes
Head circumference** ___________ In this online video, Senior Technical
you like to wear the Chest circumference ___________
Waist circumference ___________ Editor Judith Neukam demonstrates how
most. Hip circumference ___________ to draft the front and back of a bodice
Bicep ___________
Wrist ___________ pattern at lightning speed. Download the
Other ___________
** For judging neck openings on pullover garments printable article for detailed instructions.
All New DVD!
Smart Fitting with
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Kenneth D. King eb
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