Frommer's Cape Cod, Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard

314 Pages·2004·2.68 MB·English

by  Laura M. Reckford

01 542818 FM.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page i
Cape Cod,
Nantucket &
Martha’s
Vineyard
2004
by Laura M. Reckford
01 542818 FM.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page ii
About the Author
Laura M.Reckfordis a writer and editor living on Cape Cod. Formerly the man-
aging editor ofCape Cod Life Magazine, she has also been on the editorial staff of
Good Housekeepingmagazine and Entertainment Weekly.She is currently a reporter
for the Falmouth Enterprisenewspaper. She is also co-author of France For Dummies
(published by Wiley Publishing, Inc).
Published by:
Wiley Publishing,Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys-
tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo-
copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107
or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written
permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate
per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers,
MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax [phone]. Requests to the Publisher for per-
mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc.,
10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax
317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected].
Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered
trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4281-8
Editor: Christina Summers
Production Editor: Donna Wright
Cartographer: John Decamillis
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,
please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974,
outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax [phone].
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that
appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.
Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
01 542818 FM.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps v
What’s New in Cape Cod,Nantucket &
Martha’s Vineyard 1
1 The Best of Cape Cod,Nantucket &
Martha’s Vineyard 3
1 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . .4 5 The Best Hotel Deals . . . . . . . .11
2 The Best Bike Routes . . . . . . . . .5 6 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . .12
3 The Best Small Towns 7 The Best Clam Shacks . . . . . . . .13
& Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 8 The Best Shopping . . . . . . . . . .14
4 The Best Luxury Hotels & Inns . . .10 9 The Best Bars & Clubs . . . . . . .14
2 Planning Your Trip to Cape Cod & the Islands 16
1 The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . .16 7 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .19 A Word About Traffic . . . . . . . .34
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 8 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .37
4 When to Go:Climate & Events . . .21 Travel Times to Cape Cod
Cape Cod & the Islands & the Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .23 9 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .39
5 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . .28 10 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .41
6 Tips for Travelers with Fast Facts: The Cape
Special Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 & Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
3 For International Visitors 47
1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . .47 3 Getting Around the
2 Getting to the United States . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
Cape & Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Fast Facts:For the
International Traveler . . . . . . . .54
4 The Upper Cape:Sandwich,Bourne,
Falmouth & Mashpee 60
1 Sandwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Ocean Quest . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
Family-Friendly Hotels 3 Falmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
& Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 4 Mashpee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95
2 Bourne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
01 542818 FM.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page iv
iv CONTENTS
5 The Mid Cape:Barnstable,Hyannis,
Yarmouth & Dennis 99
1 Barnstable,Hyannis,Neighboring 2 Yarmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
Villages & Environs . . . . . . . . .100 3 Dennis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
Camelot on Cape Cod:
The Kennedys in Hyannisport . . .106
6 The Lower Cape:Brewster,the Harwiches,
Chatham & Orleans 134
1 Brewster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 2 Harwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
Family-Friendly Hotels 3 Chatham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
& Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . .144 4 Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
7 The Outer Cape:Eastham,Wellfleet,
Truro & Provincetown 175
1 Eastham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 3 Truro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193
2 Wellfleet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182 4 Provincetown . . . . . . . . . . . . .198
Cape Cod National Seashore . . .184 Whale-Watching . . . . . . . . . . .202
8 Nantucket 221
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222 5 Kid Stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232
2 Beaches & Recreational 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233
Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226
7 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .235
3 Museums & Historic
8 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .241
Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
Nantucket’s Music Scene . . . .249
4 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .230
9 Nantucket After Dark . . . . . . .250
9 Martha’s Vineyard 251
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252 5 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .270
Reservations-Only Policy 6 Kid Stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270
for Car Passage to 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
Martha’s Vineyard . . . . . . . . .254
8 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .274
2 A Stroll Around Edgartown . . . .258
9 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .282
3 Beaches & Recreational
The Quintessential Lobster
Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261
Dinner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284
4 Museums & Historic
10 Martha’s Vineyard After Dark . . .290
Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267
Menemsha: A New England
Fishing Village . . . . . . . . . . . .268
01 542818 FM.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page v
CONTENTS v
Index 293
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .293 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .305
Accommodations Index . . . . . .304
List of Maps
Cape Cod 6 The Outer Cape 177
Cape Cod & the Islands 17 Provincetown 199
The Upper Cape 63 Nantucket 223
Falmouth Area 79 Nantucket Town 231
The Mid Cape 101 Martha’s Vineyard 253
Hyannis 103 Edgartown 259
The Lower Cape 135 Oak Bluffs 269
Chatham Area 153 Vineyard Haven 271
01 542818 FM.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page vi
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard 2004
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Portable Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard
Frommer’s New England
Frommer’s USA
01 542818 FM.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page vii
Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
02 542818 WN.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page 1
What’s New in Cape Cod,
Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard
T
he following are highlights of what’s Whether you opt for the pan-seared
new in the Cape and Islands. scallop and lobster cakes or the steak
GETTING AROUND For those au poivre with wasabi horseradish
going to Martha’s Vineyard, there is cream sauce, you’ll be overwhelmed
one and possibly two new options. with satisfaction. Also new in recent
New in 2003, the fast ferry from years are RooBar(&508/548-8600)
Rhode Island to Oak Bluffs makes the and La Cucina Sul Mar(&508/548-
trip in 90 minutes and avoids Cape 5600), both on Main Street, making
Cod traffic jams. The Vineyard Fast Falmouth’s central district a destina-
Ferry Company (& 401/295-4040; tion for dinner. Also new on the
www.vineyardfastferry.com) runs a restaurant scene is a new location for
seasonal high-speed catamaran called Pesci’s(100 Davis Straits, a few blocks
Millenniumthat leaves from Quonset east of Main Street; & 508/495-
Point in North Kingston. The round- 5553), a perfect little Italian restaurant
trip cost is $48 for adults and $36 for that is one of Falmouth’s best kept
children. secrets. See “Where to Dine” under
Another new option for Vineyard “Falmouth” in chapter 4.
vacationers is a high-speed ferry from The Heritage Museum and Gar-
New Bedford to the island. Schedule densin Sandwich (&508/888-3300)
and fare details had not yet been is now a year-round attraction. The
worked out as of press time, but you museum is open Friday through
can contact the Steamship Authority Wednesday in season and Tuesday
(&508/477-8600or www.steamship through Sunday in off season. Attrac-
authority.com) for information. tions here include the antique car
Also new this year for the Steamship collection, Native American exhibits,
Authority, passengers can now buy antique carousel (available for unlim-
their tickets online at the company’s ited rides), and new this year, an
new updated website. No more waiting exhibit about the history of the Cape
on hold for an eternity for ferry tickets Cod Baseball League.
if you log onto www.steamship THE MID CAPE Bill Putman has
authority.com. See p. 35. added more red sports cars to his col-
THE UPPER CAPE Falmouth has lection at the Simmons Homestead
several new restaurants on the scene, Inn in Hyannisport (& 800/637-
and one is surely one of the best on the 1649 or 508/778-4999) and has
Cape. Phusion Grille (Woods Hole; turned the collection into a “museum.”
& 508/457-3100) overlooking Eel There are more than 55 cars now. Curi-
Pond on Water Street, offers exquisite, ous tourists who want to ogle the cars
creative fare and some of the best serv- pay $5 admission. Those who stay at
ice in town. This is New American the inn also get to revel in the good
cuisine with decidedly Asian influences. company of the innkeeper. See p. 109.
02 542818 WN.qxd 1/22/04 9:31 AM Page 2
2 WHAT’S NEW
THE LOWER CAPE The Cape should be completed by the fall of
Cod Museum of Natural History 2004. Some exhibits will be displayed
(& 508/896-3867) in Brewster, as a at the Friends Meeting House (&508/
way to deal with the downturn in the 228-1894), an 1838 historic property
economy, has decided to stay open at 7 Fair St., during the renovation. See
seasonally only. The museum will p. 230.
close October through April. The newest Nantucket inn, The
Veranda House on 3 Step Lane
THE OUTER CAPE Major renova-
(& 508/228-0695; www.theveranda
tion work on the Salt Pond Visitor
Center (& 508/255-3421) in East- house.com) is an example of a superb
ham is expected to be completed in the renovation of a historic building. The
late spring of 2004. The visitor center owners have made this 20-room inn
will be closed during the renovation, into a stylish version of a classic guest-
but visitors will still be able to walk the house. The inn is located in a quiet
trails and obtain maps at a temporary neighborhood, a short walk from the
visitor booth. They can also travel center of town. It is perched on a hill, so
up to Provincetown to the Province rooms on the third floor have distant
Lands Visitors Center (& 508/487- harbor views. Three wrap-around
1256), which has similar displays and verandas surround the inn on its three
programs. floors. The inn’s entire property is cov-
Provincetown’s Summer Shuttle ered by a wireless Internet service. Rates
service through town and to the through the year are $100 to $250 for
beaches is the most popular way to get standard rooms and $250 to $350 for
around this small but congested com- suites.
munity. The frequency of the buses MARTHA’S VINEYARD After a
has been increased for 2004. Visitors fire destroyed the 200-year-old Tisbury
coming from Boston can take the ferry Inn in Vineyard Haven in 2001, the
to Provincetown and easily get around fate of the property was uncertain. It
the area without a car. For more infor- reopened this year as the Mansion
mation call &508/432-3400. House Inn (9 Main St., Vineyard
The 40-room Crowne Pointe Haven; &800/332-4112or 508/693-
Historic Inn(&877/CROWNE1or 2200), a luxury 32-room inn in the
508/487-6767) at 82 Bradford St. is a center of Vineyard Haven. The three-
newly restored property perched high story building is once again a commu-
on Bradford Street and the latest entry nity hub, with a restaurant, health
in Provincetown’s high-end lodging club, and shops. Many of the rooms
sweepstakes. The inn and grounds are have kitchenettes, plasma-screen tele-
exquisitely maintained with deluxe visions, and extra-large bathtubs. Some
common areas and attractive gardens. have harbor views. All the rooms are
Rooms are spacious, and some of the equipped with high-speed Internet
deluxe rooms and suites have fireplaces, service. One of the most unique
wet bars, and whirlpool spas. There is features of the inn is the 75-foot min-
also a heated outdoor pool and a 10- eral spring (no chlorine) swimming
person outdoor spa. See p. 208. pool in the health club in the inn’s
NANTUCKET The Whaling basement. Zephrus (& 508/693-
3416), the hotel’s restaurant, is open to
Museum (13 Broad St., Nantucket;
&508/228-1894), one of the region’s the public for lunch and dinner, and
top attractions, is undergoing a major also supplies room service for guests
renovation this year. The renovation until late in the evening. See p. 288.