Fodor's Soviet Union '91

428 Pages·1990·26.393 MB·English

by  Christopher Billy (editor)

55 Years of Travel Experience ★ ★★★
5 1695
9 780679 0 19671
ISBN O-L.TT-Dnb?-?
Soviet
Union
Fodor’s Travel Publications, Inc.
New York & London
Copyright © 1991 by Fodor’s Travel Publications, Inc.
Fodor’s is a trademark of Fodor’s Travel Publications, Inc.
All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright
Conventions. Published in the United States by Fodor’s Travel Publications,
Inc., a subsidiary of Random House, Inc., New York, and simultaneously in
Canada by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto. Distributed by
Random House, Inc., New York.
No maps, illustrations, or other portions of this book may be reproduced in any
form without written permission from the publisher.
ISBN 0-679-01967-7
Fodor’s Soviet Union
Editor: Christopher Billy
Editorial Contributors: Tim Dunmore, John E. Felber, John Finchley, Lisa
Kagel, George Lewinson, George Schopflin, Mary Seton-Watson, Richard
Taylor, Gabrielle Townsend, Graham Webb
Drawings and Maps: Brian Stimson, Swanston Graphics
Photographs: Elizabeth Lee, John Massey Stewart
Cover Photograph: Cary Wolinsky/Stock Boston
Cover Design: Vignelli Associates
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MANUFACTURED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
10 987654321
TABLE OF CONTENTS
FOREWORD v
FACTS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
Planning Your Trip. Pros and Cons 1; When to Go 1; Seasonal Events
■v
2; Prices 2; Intourist 2; Tours 3; Group Tours 5; A La Carte Tours 5; Spe¬
cial-Interest Tours 5; Health Resorts 6; Travel Agents and Sample Tours
6; What to Take 9; Travel Documents 10; Soviet Citizenship and Visiting
Relatives 12; Health Regulations 13; Insurance 14.
Getting to the Soviet Union. From the U.S. by Air 14; From the U.S.
by Sea 14; From the U.K. by Air 14; From the U.K. by Sea 15; From
Elsewhere by Sea 15; From the U.K. by Rail 15; From Europe by Car
15; From Europe by Bus 16.
Arriving in the Soviet Union. Customs 16; Currency Regulations 17.
Staying in the Soviet Union. Hotels and Other Accommodations 17;
Roughing It 18; Restaurants 19; Nightlife 20; Cultural Activities 20;
Guide Services 21; Tipping 21; Shopping 21; Closing Times 22; Mail 22;
Telephones 22; Photography 23; Laundry and Dry Cleaning 23; Electrici¬
ty 23; Sports 23.
Traveling in the Soviet Union. By Air 24; By Train 24; By Car 25; Map
of Intourist Motor Routes 26; Cruises 28.
Leaving the Soviet Union. Customs on Returning Home and Soviet
Regulations 29.
HOW THE SOVIET UNION WORKS by Tim Dunmore 31
THE SOVIET WAY OF LIFE by Mary Seton-Watson 46
THE PEOPLES OF THE SOVIET UNION by George Schopflin 55
A MINI-HISTORY TABLE 70
RUSSIAN ART AND ARCHITECTURE by John Finchley 76
RUSSIAN AND SOVIET LITERATURE 89
THE LIVELY ARTS by Hilary Sternberg, Richard Taylor and 98
John Finchley
THE CULTURAL SCENE UNDER GORBACHEV by Mary 111
Seton- Watson
FOOD AND DRINK by Gabrielle Townsend 121
EXPLORING THE SOVIET UNION
MOSCOW—The Seat of Power and Culture 129
Map of Moscow 130-131
Plan of the Kremlin 135
Map of the Moscow Metro 160
• • •
in
iv TABLE OF CONTENTS
LENINGRAD—The Magnificent City by George Lemnson 111
Map of Leningrad 180-181
EUROPEAN RUSSIA AND BYELORUSSIA—Ancient Cities
and Writers’ Homes 212
THE BALTIC REPUBLICS—Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania 249
Map of the Baltic Republics 251
THE UKRAINE AND MOLDAVIA—Breadbasket of the 270
U.S.S.R.
Map of the Ukraine and Moldavia 271
Map of Kiev 273
DOWN THE VOLGA—The “Little Mother” from Kazan to 296
Rostov
THE CRIMEA AND THE BLACK SEA—From Odessa to 304
Batumi
Map of the Crimea and Black Sea 305
THE CAUCASUS—Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan 333
Map of the Caucasus 335
THE CENTRAL ASIAN REPUBLICS—Where Tamerlane
Held Sway 362
Map of the Central Asian Republics 364
SIBERIA—The Wild East 388
ENGLISH-RUSSIAN VOCABULARY AND CYRILLIC
ALPHABET CHART 403
INDEX 412
Map of the USSR. 421^24
FOREWORD
Most visitors to the U.S.S.R. anticipate a trip for earnest reasons of po¬
litical, social and cultural curiosity; few go to find the kind of relaxed fun
that you would expect from a holiday in the West. Almost everyone is
aware that a visit to Russia has little to do with creature comforts—sun,
sand and apres ski, or any of the other frivolous pursuits associated with
having a good time. For most, the reason for going is, pure and simple,
curiosity—curiosity about a country that for most of this century espoused
a completely different social order and that is now involved in a bold at¬
tempt to restructure its political and economic life.
For this reason we have adopted a somewhat different format for this
book from the others in our series. In order to satisfy the visitor’s need
for background information, we have given preponderant coverage to the
political, social and cultural aspects of the Soviet Union—especially the
political and economic changes taking place under Mr. Gorbachev—as
well as including many parts of the country a tourist is not likely to see.
The thaw in U.S./U.S.S.R. relations that began with the Geneva “fire¬
side summit” is proceeding steadily. There is every sign that this gradual
warming of the international climate will continue to spread to making
the lives of visitors to the U.S.S.R. easier, too. Over the past few years—
since the 1980 Olympics, when there was a concentrated training program
for guides and others who would be dealing with guests—there has been
a noticeable improvement both in standards and attitudes. Visitors return¬
ing to the U.S.S.R. after an absence of several years will notice a world
of difference in their welcome. The remarkable friendliness of ex-President
Reagan’s reception in May 1988, and the breadth of the media coverage
that his visit received, marked a new high in relations. Mr. Gorbachev’s
momentous visits to the United States in December ’88 and May ’90 took
the process even further.
Your encounters with individual Russians, Latvians, Mongolians or
Georgians (to name but a few of the nationalities that comprise the Soviet
Union) can be a heartwarming experience; the Soviet social order, so dif¬
ferent from ours, will provoke the imagination if you are politically aware;
the fine arts, in the form of museums, theater, dance or music, will impress
you by the sheer volume of participants. On a more mundane level, you
may enjoy the skill of Soviet athletics, which has more than ten million
registered active participant enthusiasts, and the excitement of the very
best in competition. And, despite the occasional poor service in restau¬
rants, you will probably enjoy sampling the various regional food and
drink specialties of the country.
Special advice for a special visit. You will find throughout this book
the theme: “Visiting the Soviet Union is like nothing you’ve ever done be¬
fore.” Because this is so, we’d like to offer some special advice for visiting
a very special country, with our apologies if we sound a bit heavy-handed
about it. We’re not trying to make the ordinary problems of logistics seem
worse than they are, but our experience, and that of many other travelers,
indicates that the following hints may help to prepare you for your adven¬
ture into another way of life:
1—Go to the U.S.S.R. on a group tour if you can possibly do so, espe¬
cially if it’s your first visit, or if you don’t speak Russian. Group tourists
get priority over individual tourists, even if the latter do pay more than
the former.
v
FOREWORD
VI
2—Be careful not to break any laws, and if you’re not sure, follow this
rule: if you aren’t certain something is allowed, it is safer to assume it is
definitely forbidden. Sticking to your pre-arranged itinerary, not photo¬
graphing any rail stations, installations, buildings, etc. that might be re¬
garded as “sensitive,” not selling your blue jeans, or not offering a dollar
bill or pound note for a tip, all these are covered by some law or other
and, for ignoring things like these, visitors have run into trouble and some
have even been expelled from the country.
4— If you are traveling individually and expect to spend more than a
day or two in the U.S.S.R., register with your embassy in Moscow, prefera¬
bly in person, but at least by mail or telephone.
5— Carry your hotel identity card (which you will get when you register,
in exchange for your passport) with you at all times. It is officially accepted
as proof of your status in foreign currency shops, restaurants, etc., and
may be useful also if, for example, you get lost and want to ask someone
the way to your hotel or to take a taxi. If you are allowed to keep your
passport as well, keep it in a safe place on your person at all times.
6— Plan well ahead, meaning that everything you want to do in the Sovi¬
et Union, and especially all the cities you want to visit or special interests
you want to pursue, is arranged before you leave your home for the airport.
7— Finally, and a very basic point, remember that you are going to a
country that is going through a difficult period of transition, struggling
to pull itself out of an economic crisis. We have had letters over the years
from readers who have been disturbed by their trip to the U.S.S.R. If it
is at all likely that you will be unable to approach your trip with patience
and an open mind we seriously suggest that you think twice about going
at all. But if you like adventure—enjoy!
*
We would like to thank our many friends who have helped in the prepa¬
ration of this edition, including the staff of Intourist in New York, who
have given us valuable assistance. We would like also to express our grati¬
tude especially to Mary Seton-Watson, George Lewinson, Tim Dunmore,
and George Schopflin for putting their expertise at our disposal, and to
John E. Felber for his work on this revised edition.
*
While every care has been taken to assure the accuracy of the informa¬
tion in this guide, the passage of time will always bring change, and conse¬
quently the publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors that may
occur.
All prices and opening times quoted in this guide are based on informa¬
tion supplied to us at press time. Hours and admission fees may change,
however, and the prudent traveler will avoid inconvenience by calling
ahead.
Fodor’s wants to hear about your travel experiences, both pleasant and
unpleasant. When a hotel or restaurant fails to live up to its billing, let
us know and we will investigate the complaint and revise our entries where
the facts warrant it. Send your letters to the editors of Fodor’s Travel Pub¬
lications, 201 E. 50th Street, New York, NY 10022.
FACTS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
Planning Your Trip
PROS AND CONS. If you are thinking of going to the Soviet Union on the spur
of the moment, our advice is: don’t. Even if you could get a visa quickly, you might
find that there is an All-Union Congress of Tractor Engineers in Moscow or a meet¬
ing of international agronomists in Leningrad and accommodations are impossible
to obtain. Give yourself time for planning, consider your own likes and dislikes,
your special hobbies and interests. In this vast country of which you will be able
to explore only a small section, there is so much to see it is essential to make a
choice and then make plans accordingly.
Are you allergic to cold? Stay out of the areas of frost and snow and go in sum¬
mer. Does the heat bother you? Avoid July and August, when Moscow can sizzle
like New York and be as humid as London. Above all remember that improvisation
following a sudden fancy or urge is rarely possible in the U.S.S.R. The individual
traveler isn’t really welcome, only tolerated, and pays more. Even if you want to
travel only with your family or a small group, it is better to pick a tour that suits
your purpose best. If you should decide that you would like to extend or vary it
after arrival this is possible through Intourist, which will be represented in your
hotel.
WHEN TO GO. In a country as vast as the Soviet Union, it is possible to enjoy
a holiday at almost any time of the year. Some experts consider August and Septem¬
ber the best months. This is the high season, so you must reserve well ahead to
avoid disappointment. In the central part of the Soviet Union, June and July are
fairly hot and on the Black Sea coast it is even hotter. But on the Black Sea May
is a particularly attractive month and you can bathe from the beginning of that
month through October. If you choose June or July, pick the Baltic countries and
Leningrad, which will be just pleasantly warm. Central Asia is best visited in
March-April or September-October as you will find the climate in summer almost
tropical yet dry and dusty.
Winter in Moscow can be fierce in January and early February but the rest of
the season is tolerable. There is, of course, plenty of snow and in the dry cold the
city looks very attractive under its white cover. Some people find the cold most
exhilarating, and Russian interiors are always well-heated.
Here are the average temperature ranges of the five main tourist centers (lowest
monthly average and highest average):
Leningrad: 18.5°F. to 63.5°F. (-7.TC. to 17.5°C.).
Moscow: 12.6°F. to 65.3T. (-10.8°C to 18.5°C.).
Odessa: 25.7°F. to 71.6°F. (-3.7°C. to 22.1°C).
Sochi: 44.4°F. to 73.4°F. (6.2°C. to 23.0°C.).
Yalta: 38.3°F. to 75.2°F. (3.7°C. to 24.2°C.).
In the off season, October through April, deluxe tours are 15% less expensive
and the first- and tourist-class tours 25% less, outside Moscow and Leningrad. (Be¬
cause of the severe hotel shortage, discounts are seldom granted in Moscow and
Leningrad.) This is the best time to see the country and have the pick of the full
theater and concert season. You can enjoy skiing, skating, troika rides and tobog¬
ganing in these months. You’ll also sample the best cooking: the hearty winter dish¬
es that Russia is famous for are in season then. In summer, light clothing will be
sufficient, but you should take at least one warm suit or pullover. A raincoat and
rubber overshoes or boots will also be useful. Evening dress or formal clothes are
not necessary for the theaters or restaurants. Do not wear shorts or beach wraps
1
2 SOVIET UNION
in towns—you may not be allowed into museums or cafes. Women in trousers are
now accepted.
SEASONAL EVENTS. These include the May Day celebrations, the anniversa¬
ry of V.E. Day (May 9) and the military parades of the Great October Revolution
(commemorated on November 7 each year). The parades are followed by mass pag¬
eants and sports displays in Moscow’s Red Square and other city centers.
The Russian Winter Festival lasts 12 days from December 25 to January 5. Car¬
nivals take place in the immense Luzhniki Stadium in Moscow and elsewhere there
are circuses and special theatrical performances. The Russian New Year is usually
celebrated in restaurants and cafes. The Festival is also celebrated in Leningrad,
Suzdal, Novgorod and Irkutsk where events are laid on for foreign visitors.
There are the Festival of Moscow Stars (May 5-13), the Kiev Spring Festival
(May 18-30), the Leningrad White Nights (June 21-29), various art festivals and
the Riga Song Festival (August 1-9). The Moscow International Film Festival is
held every odd-numbered year in July, with entries from all over the world.
Sporting highlights include national and international ice-hockey and soccer
(football) matches, skating and skiing championships, athletic meets, boxing com¬
petitions and many other events.
The November 7 celebrations are particularly brilliant in Moscow, with the
whole city decked out in bunting, gaily-colored streamers and flags. The Soviet lead¬
ers stand on top of the Lenin Mausoleum while the long colorful parade rolls past
to the strains of a large brass band. (The exact position of the leaders has long been
thought to be an indication of their actual standing in the hierarchy.) Then follows
a spectacular gymnastic display after which folklore groups from all over the coun¬
try perform. The march-past of workers, many carrying their children on their
shoulders, can last three or four hours. In the evening, the buildings are illuminated,
fireworks light up the sky, and there is dancing and entertainment in the central
squares and streets (which are closed to traffic). In Leningrad, the Soviet Baltic
Fleet sails up the Neva and drops anchor opposite the Winter Palace. Illuminated
at night, the warships draw great crowds to the embankments.
In Moscow, Leningrad, Kiev and other towns the theatrical season usually starts
in October.
PRICES. We give figures throughout this Facts At Your Fingertips for accommo¬
dations, travel and so on. In 1990 a new two-tier exchange system was put into
place. Roubles are now exchanged at one rate on the ‘international’ market and
at another rate on the internal ‘domestic’ market. At press time (summer 1990)
the official international exchange rate stood at around 62 roubles per $100, 97 rou¬
bles per £100; the internal exchange rate was 620 roubles to $100, 971 roubles to
£100. The prices for certain ‘international transactions’ such as air fare, internation¬
al telephone calls, hotel rooms booked through foreign travel agencies, and meals
at “hard-currency” restaurants are calculated at the official international rate; most
other transactions within the Soviet Union—purchases at Soviet stores, meals at
“soft-currency” restaurants, etc.—are calculated at the domestic rate. This situa¬
tion can be confusing to travelers, but can also work to their advantage. For exam¬
ple, in hotels that accept roubles (‘soft currency’) you can get a full meal for as
little as 10 roubles or about $1.62 (as opposed to a meal for $40 or more at a hard-
currency restaurant). The base fare on a taxi booked through the same hotel could
be as low as 3 roubles (48^); but a taxi hailed on the street could have a base fare
of $5 if the driver owns the cab and insists on being paid in hard currency.
INTOURIST. All travel to the Soviet Union is ultimately organized through the
State travel agency, Intourist Moscow Limited. They themselves have tours and
a certain amount of useful information. The following are the offices of Intourist
in the U.S.A., Britain and Canada—
U.S.A.: 630 Fifth Ave., Suite 868, New York, N.Y. 10111. Tel. [phone].
Britain: Intourist House, Meridian Gate, Marsh Wall, London, El4. Tel. 071—
538-5902; 71 Deansgate, Manchester M3 2BW. Tel. [phone]; 29 Vincent PI.,
Glasgow G1 2DT. Tel. [phone].