Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide: Natural and Man-made Fibers

273 Pages·2014·46.699 MB·English

by  Hallett, Clive, Johnston, Amanda

Fabric
for
Fashion
The
Complete
Guide
Natural and
man-made fibers
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Publishedin2014
byLaurenceKingPublishingLtd
361–373CityRoad
LondonEC1V1LR
tel[phone]
fax[phone]
[email protected]
www.laurenceking.com
©text2014AmandaJohnston
andCliveHallett
Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthis
publicationmaybereproducedor
transmittedinanyformorbyany
means,electronicormechanical,
includingphotocopy,recordingor
anyinformationstorageandretrieval
system,withoutpriorpermissionin
writingfromthepublisher.
Acataloguerecordforthisbookis
availablefromtheBritishLibrary.
ISBN-13:9781780673349
Coverimage:CourtesyYiqingYin,
photobyLaurenceLaborie
DesignedbyStrukturDesignLimited
PrintedinChina
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Fabric
for
Fashion
The
Complete
Guide
Natural and
man-made fibers
Clive Hallett and
Amanda Johnston
Photoeditingand
commissionedphotography
byMykaBaum
Laurence King Publishing
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Introduction
Section 1:
Animal fibers
Section 2:
Plant fibers
Section 3:
Man-made fibers
Useful information
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Introduction
8
Fibers to fabrics
12
Introducing color
44
Wool
62
Luxury animal fibers
86
Silk
104
Linen
128
Cotton
142
Alternative plant fibers
166
Synthetic fibers
184
Artificial fibers
212
Fabric and the fashion industry
236
Resources/Glossary
248
Index/Credits/Acknowledgments
262
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6
IInnttrroodduuccttiioonn
Fashion design and textile knowledge are often taught as
separate disciplines,and knowledge of the raw materials
and processes that make up a fabric are not usually
integrated into fashion studies.
A confident understanding of fabrics,and the fibers they
are composed of,is fundamental to the design process,
allowing one to make informed choices rather than arbitrary
decisions based upon surface appeal.
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7
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Thisbookisintendedasaneasilynavigablefabriclexicon Ourrelationshipwithfibersandfabricsisintimateandall-
8 thatexplorestherelationshipbetweenfashionandtextiles encompassing;wearesurroundedby,sleepin,andareclothed
andencouragesanawarenessoffibersandfabricsinabroader bythem.Historicallytextileshavebeenvaluednotonlyfortheir
fashioncontext.Itisdesignedtoinformthereaderofthe practicalandaestheticproperties,butalsoasincrediblypowerful
endlesspossibilitiesthatfabricsoffertothedesignprocess.Itis culturalindicators.Textilesdisplaytheartistryandingenuityof
notintendedasanexhaustivetechnicalmanual,butratherasa acivilization,themostpreciousexamplesofwhichevenhelp
tooltoinform,inspire,andencouragethecreativeuseoffabrics. todenotestatuswithinsociety.Incontemporarylifeanever-
Thecontentofthebookisintendedtosupportanessential moresophisticatedandgrowingrangeoffabricsexpressesthe
knowledgebase,whichisfundamentaltodevelopingarange complexlanguageoffashion.
offashionproducts. Thetextileindustrymaybesimplisticallyviewedasthe
Focusinginturnonanimal,plant,andman-madefibers, supplieroftherawmaterialsforthefashionindustry,whereasin
eachofthethreesectionsconsiderstheoriginsofspecificfibers realitythetwoindustriesareinextricablylinked.Developments
withintheseclassifications,theirhistory,provenance,andthe inthetextileindustryinvariablyimpactuponthefashion
processingjourneytofinishedfabric.Additionally,itexploresthe industry,andviceversa.Fabricsarealsoincrediblypowerfulas
socioeconomicfactorsthatmayhaveinfluencedtheimportance astrongvisualindicatorofabrand,oftendefiningaspectsofa
ofaspecificfiber,inordertocreateanawarenessofhowone’s brandidentity.
choiceofmaterialmayimpactuponecological,sustainable,and Thefashiondesigner’srelationshipwithfabricisatthe
ethicalissues. heartofthecreativeprocess.Therightchoiceoffabricis
Eachsectionprovidesanextensivedatabase fundamentaltogooddesignandisinstrumentaltoitssuccess.
ofterminology,toencourageinformedandeffective Thebettertheunderstandingofthematerial,themoreeffective
communicationwithindustryprofessionals.Thisis isthesymbiosisbetweenthedesignandfabric.
underpinnedwithinformationaboutprocessesgenericto
allfibersregardlessoforigin.Theimportanceofcoloris
exploredwithinaseparatesection,andthefinalchapter “Thefutureoffashionliesinfabrics.Everythingcomes
contextualizestheinterrelationshipofallthecomponentsthat fromfabrics.”
makeupthefashionindustry. DonnaKaran
“Thebondbetweenfashionandtextilesisoneofmutual
dependencyandreciprocalinfluence;ashareddestinybased
uponourneedforclothing.”
FashionandTextiles:AnOverview (oppositepage)Astunning
creationcomposedoflayersof
ColinGaleandJasbirKaur(BergPublishers,2004)
differentfabrics,encrustedwith
beadworkandembroideryover
laceandtulle,byJapanese
designerTamaeHirokawafor
4% 3% Somarta.
1%
5%
POLYESTERPOLYAMIDE POLYPROPYLENE ACRYLIC SCITEHTNYSREHTO
POLYESTER
45%
COTTON
COTTON 32%
Thischartshowsrecentfiguresforglobaltextilefiber OTHERCELLULOSICSRAYOONSTHERNATURALSWOOL 4%1%
demand,illustratingthecurrentworldwidedominance
oflow-costsyntheticfibers.Inthenaturalandbio-based 1%
4%
fibersectors,cottonisthemostpopularchoice.
Statisticsource:TheFiberYear,2010,Oerlikon
Introduction
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9
Introduction
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