Table Of ContentComparison and Contrast in the Dimensions of Two
Selected Fashion Studies with Different Methodologies
Ayesha Saeed
ABSTRACT: To have better understanding of qualitative research
methods, this research paper aims to compare two fashion studies with
different qualitative research approaches. The first selected study is
based on grounded theory and the second selected research study is
based on phenomenology both of them belong to same paradigm i.e.
interpretive paradigm. This research study analyses presentation,
stylistic, substantive, theoretical, methodological, ethical and
interpretive dimensions of both the articles. After thorough comparison
and contrast, the researcher has concluded that the study that belongs to
the grounded theory gives lots of importance to the data and theory,
whereas the study that belongs to phenomenology emphasizes more on
the events. The study further concludes that proper selection of the
research methodology and the research design is important before
carrying out a study as it gives a guideline to the researchers and helps
them in carrying out their selected research study in a proper way.
Keywords: Qualitative research, grounded theory, phenomenology,
comparison, fashion studies, methods.
Journal of Research (Humanities) 184
Introduction
Research in marketing plays central role in the expansion of new
products, developing new ways of advertising and promoting new
strategies. Along with this after the implementation of these strategies,
research plays a vital role in monitoring their performance. It also helps
in measuring the effectiveness of pricing, product, and distribution and
promotion activities (Kotler & Armstrong 2008). Research in the field of
marketing is conducted both through qualitative and quantitative research
methods.
Qualitative research method uses group discussion, individual in-depth
interviews, observations and projective techniques and the data collected
try to find out “how and why of the situation” (Easey 73). In contrast
quantitative research studies “emphasize the measurement and analysis
of causal relationships between variables, not processes” (Denzin
&Lincoln 13). So qualitative research is the one that provides the
opportunity to the research to “study things in their natural settings
attempting to make sense of, or to interpret, phenomena in terms of the
meanings people bring to them”. (Denzin &Lincoln 5) and is dominated
by set of beliefs known as paradigm (Solomon & Rabolt). This research
article compares and critically analyse two qualitative research
approaches in the field of fashion merchandizing to get insight into the
two different approaches of qualitative ways of inquiry.
The first selected qualitative research study was based on grounded
theory (Corbin &Strauss 1990) by Helepete, Hathcote and Peters (2005)
(Appendix A). Grounded theory methodological approach belongs to
interpretive paradigm and therefore it helps in knowing how a qualitative
research deals with issues that relate to micromarketing merchandising.
The second selected research study by Grant & Stephen (2005)
(Appendix B) was an exploratory study it again belonged to interpretive
paradigm and the methodological approach was phenomenology. The
power of the studies that belong to phenomenological approach is on
“lived experiences” (Grant & Stephen 459). The present study also
analyses the lived experiences of tweenage girls in their purchasing
decisions of fashion clothing.
Comparison and Contrast in the Dimensions of 185
Two Selected Fashion Studies with Different Methodologies
Underpinning of Research Approaches
In qualitative research, there are four major paradigms (Grant et al.
2002). These paradigms are “basic set of beliefs that guides action”
(Denzin et al. 245) and includes four concepts: “ethics (axiology),
epistemology, ontology, and methodology” (Denzin et al. 245). Both the
selected research studies share same paradigm i.e. interpretative
paradigm.
The interpretative paradigm assumes contingent ontology, a subjectivist
epistemology and methodology is naturalistic in nature e.g.
phenomenology, ethnography, grounded theory etc. (Denzin & Lincoln).
In this paradigm, the researchers come very close to the participants, so
that they can understand the experiences of the participants and the
importance of those events in the life of the participants. Both researcher
and participant are involved in the process of data collection but the
researcher is in the dominant position as during analysis the
interpretations depend upon the researcher (Grant & Giddings).
Methodologies in interpretative paradigm vary in their theoretical
aspects, as well as the in their way of data collection and analysis. Both
the selected research studies used different research approaches in order
to come out with their findings respectively. Helepete et al (2005)
(Appendix A) used grounded theory as their research approach, as they
were interested in studying the variables that controlled the
micromarketing merchandising in the apparel industry and were
interested in building some theory. Therefore, they preferred theoretical
sampling during the process of data collection. After carrying out
interviews, the data was transcribed, analysed and interpreted. This
corresponds with the development of a theory called “grounded theory”
that “can be viewed as a specific form of ethnographic inquiry […]
through a series of carefully planned steps, develops theoretical ideas”
(Crotty 78). In contrast, Grant & Stephen (2005) (Appendix B) studied
the major corresponding factors that influenced 12-13 year old girls
while making decision during the purchase of their fashion clothing. In
this research, the researcher conducted focus groups to collect the data
and nature of the questions in these focus groups was open ended. Later
on, multiple respondents’ cross-analysed and confirmed interpretations
and finally data analysis was done in the form of narrations and emphasis
was given to the lived experiences, as it was a phenomenological study.
This is because phenomenological research uses the interview method
Journal of Research (Humanities) 186
and plans to remain close to the person by capturing stories, writing, and
rewriting them to understanding of the experiences of the subject (Grant
& Giddings 2002). The comparison and contrast of both qualitative
research studies with different approaches is as under:
Comparison and Contrast of Qualitative Research Approaches
This research article, critically analyses two published research papers
that belong to two different qualitative research approaches.
Presentation and Stylistic Dimension
Title
The titles of both the studies adequately summarize the research problem
and the population under study. Although in the title only Helepete et al
(2005) (Appendix A) described that, their study was qualitative study.
However, neither of the two has described the research design in their
title.
Abstract
The abstract of both the studies clearly described the purpose, design,
findings, limitation, practical implications, value, keywords and paper
type of the study concerning their respective research approaches.
Substantive and Theoretical Dimensions
Helepete, et al (2005) (Appendix A) aligned their research problem with
grounded theory. They clearly explained the research design and
identified each concept and the importance of micromarketing
merchandising in introduction. The literature review discussed all the
variables that influenced micromarketing merchandising, with reference
to the previous studies. The authors clearly point out the limitations of
the research problem. In short, this article appears to be a significant
study in micromarketing merchandising especially for new retailers as
pointed out in the literature review and its theoretical dimensions seem to
be fairly comprehensive in order to carryout a research study with
ground theory as its research approach.
The research design of Grant & Stephen (2005) (Appendix B) is
described as interpretative and they outlined their research problem with
Comparison and Contrast in the Dimensions of 187
Two Selected Fashion Studies with Different Methodologies
its focus on “tweenage girls” which according to them is a “relatively
new in the marketing terminology” (Grant & Stephen 2005) and
therefore they had explained this new concept in the introduction. The
literature review of this study was quite comprehensive. Each concept
was explained separately hence they theoretically explained different
factors which influenced the purchasing decision of tweenage girls This
approach is in contrast with the act of “the phenomenologist or
interpretive” who “is committed to understand social phenomena from
the actor’s own perspective and examining how the world is
experienced” (Taylor & Bogdan 3). Therefore, they identified the main
point of focus in their study at the end of literature review that became
the basis of their findings after interviewing the focus groups. Hence,
Grant & Stephen’s study (Appendix B) substantively contributes to an
understanding of the behaviour of teenage girls.
Both the studies at the end came out with some factors that helped them
to initiate their study. The literature in the Grant & Stephen (2005)
(Appendix B) study left some questions unanswered in the end, from
which they picked only one question as focus of their research so that
they had better understanding on this social phenomenon. Whereas,
Helepete et al (2005) (Appendix A) identified several variables which
influenced micromarketing merchandising and were also able to prepare
a flow model at the end of the literature review, as their main interest
was to generate a theory at the end of the study for micromarketing
merchandising. Hence, both the studies are qualitative and have some
contributions to the consumer and market research.
Methodological Dimensions
Setting
After randomly selecting stores from the different parts of United States,
as visits were not possible due to the financial, time and geographical
constraints in-depth telephone interviews of the retailers were carried out
and tape-recorded by Helepete, Hathcote and Peters (2005) (Appendix
A). In contrast, Grant & Stephen (2005) (Appendix B) provided a
controlled setting of business school but allowed the participants to feel
relaxed and unthreatened. A moderator conducted these interviews and
then tape recorded, while the others observed and took notes and
remained with the person’s story. However, both the selected studies did
not describe the background and geographical location.
Journal of Research (Humanities) 188
Research Sample
Helepete et al (2005) (Appendix A) developed criterion for the selection
of the stores. They initially complied a list of 50 stores then randomly
selected 20 stores; a significant number to support their grounded theory.
On the contrary, Grant & Stephen (2005) (Appendix B) concentrated on
only four focus groups. Each group consisted of six teenage girls from
different schools in the city. Hence, the researchers of both the studies
selected an adequate number of samples. However, both the studies had
not fully explained the sampling strategies.
Research Design
The authors of both the research studies followed flexible research
design based on the on-going data collection followed by analysis.
Helepete et al (2005) (Appendix A) developed their research according
to their chosen methodological approach i.e. grounded theory. They
carried series of well-planned steps and extensively clarified the
limitations of the study and later on, they generated a theory regarding
micromarketing merchandising.
In contrast, research conducted by Grant & Stephen (2005) (Appendix B)
clearly identified their study as interpretative research, and they limited it
to exploratory although it had not clearly identified its research approach.
The construction and preferences in their research design including
methods of data collection, analysis and its emphasis on “lived
experiences” (Grant & Stephen 459) clearly aligned it with
phenomenological approach.
Procedure
Theoretical sampling was utilized by Helepete et al (2005) (Appendix
A) for the collection of data as “in theoretical sampling, the actual
number of studied cases is relatively unimportant. What is important is
the potential of case to aid the researcher in developing theoretical
insight into the area of social life being studied” (Taylor & Bogdan 93).
Therefore, the development of theories was the base of the grounded
theory and the data collection was preferably through theoretical
sampling. In contrast, Grant & Stephen (2005) (Appendix B) relied
mainly on group interviews and observations of series of four structured
focus groups. A “phenomenologist seeks understanding through
Comparison and Contrast in the Dimensions of 189
Two Selected Fashion Studies with Different Methodologies
qualitative methods such as observations, in-depth interview and others,
that yield descriptive data” (Taylor & Bogdan 4). Although both the
research studies selected different methods of data collection but they
were quite appropriate for their selected research approaches.
Data Quality
Helepete, et al (2005) (Appendix A) clearly described method of data
collection and analysis in their study. The data collection was through in-
depth telephone call of 15 and 30 minutes in length. Interviews were
taped recorded, transcribed and analyzed using open, axial and selective
coding, as “in qualitative research, coding is the way of developing and
refining interpretation of the data” (Taylor & Bogdan 150) and is mostly
done in grounded theory. The presentation of the results and findings
were very clear. Finally, the researcher develops a conceptual model to
represent the theory of micromarketing merchandising, as theories are
the essence of the grounded theory.
On the contrary, Grant & Stephen (2005) (Appendix B) in their
interpretative phenomenological study selected focus groups to have an
in-sight into the lived experiences. Observations and interview were
examined, transcribed by multiple respondents, cross-analysed and
completed in words. Although both the studies adequately interpreted the
data, conceptualized the themes and clearly presented their results but
were clearly different in their approach of conducting their research
study. As Crotty believes for the purpose of the research sometimes, it is
suitable to link methodology with established line of thought (Crotty
1998).
Ethical Dimensions
Both the research studies have given due consideration to the ethical
issue concerning their respective studies. As the study of Helepete et al
(2005) (Appendix A) was dealing with adults so they took oral consent
and made telephone calls to collect the data for the study (Taylor &
Bogdan 1998). In contrast, Grant & Stephen (2005) (Appendix B) gave a
brief description about their study to tweenage girls and their parents.
However, they mentioned that the environment they provided to the
participants was relaxed and secure.
Journal of Research (Humanities) 190
Interpretative Dimensions
Helepete et al (2005) (Appendix A) working with the grounded theory
after analysis and interpretation of the data, developed a conceptual
model to represent their theory. They discussed their findings and made
suggestions in their discussion section. Due consideration was also given
to limitations of the study. They also explained the constraints and
recommendations about the future research. While Grant & Stephen
(2005) (Appendix B) clustered their findings around five related themes
after interviewing and observing in order to get in-sight into the lived
experiences of the tweenage girls as phenomenology helps in
understanding the intricate world of human experiences and
accommodates that data which is not directly observable e.g. beliefs,
values and feeling (LeVasseur 2002). They also discussed conclusions
and supported their conclusion with quotations to express internal ideas
and feeling of tweenage girls. They also discussed limitations and further
research suggestions. Therefore, both the selected studies being different
in their research approach presented their interpretations in different
ways.
Conclusion
After thorough comparison and critical analysis of the selected studies,
this research study concludes that in qualitative research, the selection of
proper research approach gives direction to the researcher. It is also
reflected from the above critical analysis that the key difference in both
the studies lies in the research approach as the study which is the based
on grounded theory emphasizes on inductive theorizing process.
However, the study based on phenomenology is more concerned in
finding out the meaning, which people attach to things in their life.
Lastly, this research study recommends that a comparative study on the
studies based on between grounded theory and the feminist theory should
also carried out.
Comparison and Contrast in the Dimensions of 191
Two Selected Fashion Studies with Different Methodologies
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Journal of Research (Humanities) 192
APPENDIX A
A Qualitative Study Of Micromarketing Merchandising In The Us
Apparel Retail Industry
Jaya Halepete (Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa, USA)
Jan Hathcote (University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia, USA)
Cara Peters (Winthrop University, Rock Hill, South Carolina, USA)
ABSTRACT
Purpose
– To examine the variables that influence micromarketing merchandising
in the apparel industry in order to help new retailer understand the
importance of micromarketing merchandising.
Design/methodology/approach
– A model was developed showing the different variables that influenced
micromarketing merchandising. General merchandising managers of 20
US‐based apparel retail chains were interviewed using a questionnaire
developed after analyzing the available literature. A qualitative method
of data analysis was conducted and the model was revised based on the
findings of the research.
Findings
– A qualitative analysis of the transcribed interviews indicated that
assortment, demographics, pricing and customer loyalty were the
primary variables that effected micromarketing merchandising in the
apparel retail industry. The sub‐variables in the study included lifestyle,
ethnicity, store size and location, and customer service.
Research limitations/implications
– The research was limited to US‐based apparel retailers. Future research
could be directed towards in‐depth quantitative analysis of each variable
influencing micromarketing merchandising.
Practical implications
– The results of this study could be used by managers of retail chains to
understand the various variables that need to be considered while
micromarketing merchandising for their store. Based on the area the
store is located in, the importance of each variable can be adjusted to best
suit specific stores.
Keywords: Merchandising, Customer loyalty, Pricing,
Demographics
