Chocolates and Confections: Formula, Theory, and Technique for the Artisan Confectioner

546 Pages·2012·143.24 MB·English

by  Peter P. Greweling

CHOCOLATES AND CONFECTIONS
CHOCOLATES a CONFECTIONS
n

d
Formula, Theory, and Technique
for the Artisan Confectioner
Peter P. Greweling, CMB
The Culinary Institute of America
SECOND EDITION
CHOCOLATES CONFECTIONS

John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
This book is printed on acid-free paper. ∞
Photographs © 2013 by Ben Fink
Copyright © 2013, 2007 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved.
The Culinary Institute of America
President Dr. Tim Ryan ’77
Provost Mark Erickson ’77
Senior Director, Educational Enterprises Susan Cussen
Director of Publishing Nathalie Fischer
Editorial Project Manager Lisa Lahey ‘00
Editorial Assistants Shelly Malgee ’08
Erin Jeanne McDowell ’08
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of
the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through
payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923,
[phone], fax [phone], or on the web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should
be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, [phone],
fax [phone], or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.
Evaluation copies are provided to qualified academics and professionals for review purposes only, for use in their courses
during the next academic year. These copies are licensed and may not be sold or transferred to a third party. Upon completion
of the review period, please return the evaluation copy to Wiley. Return instructions and a free of charge shipping label are
available at www.wiley.com/go/returnlabel. Outside of the United States, please contact your local representative.
Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they
make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically
disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended
by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your
situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss
of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.
For general information on our other products and services or for technical support, please contact our Customer Care
Department within the United States at [phone], outside the United States at [phone] or fax [phone].
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in
electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our web site at www.wiley.com.
Cover and interior design by Vertigo Design NYC
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Greweling, Peter P.
Chocolates and confections : formula, theory, and technique for the artisan confectioner / Peter P. Greweling ; the Culinary
Institute of America. -- 2nd ed.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-470-42441-4 (cloth)
1. Chocolate candy. 2. Confectionery. I. Culinary Institute of America. II. Title.
TX791.G786 2012
664’.153—dc22
2009041248
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS vi
INTRODUCTION vii
1
Confectionery Ingredients and Equipment
1
2
Cacao and Chocolate
21
3
Packaging and Storage
39
4
Fundamental Techniques
53
5
Cream Ganache
93
6
Butter Ganache
185
7
Noncrystalline Confections
215
8
Crystalline Confections
267
9
Jellies
315
10
Aerated Confections
355
11
Nut Centers
401
12
Candy Bars
455
APPENDIX A: SUGAR DENSITIES 513
APPENDIX B: CONFECTIONERY WORK AREAS 515
GLOSSARY 518
REFERENCES 524
INDEX 525
v
CANDY BARS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This book bears my name, but at no point was I alone in making it a reality. Many individuals
and organizations contributed generously to this work, and without each of them, the book in
your hands would have been a lesser one.
I remain indebted to those who worked with me to create the first edition of this book, and
undertaking the second edition has added to the long list of people with whom it has been my
pleasure and good fortune to work.
The administration, faculty, staff, and students of The Culinary Institute of America all
touched and influenced this book. I thank the administration for agreeing to join me in pro-
ducing what I hope will be an important textbook, professional reference work, and contribu-
tion to the field of confectionery. My friend Tom Gumpel deserves special credit for providing
me with the impetus to begin work on this book. Without his encouragement, I would never
have undertaken the project. Were it not for the ongoing support of Dean Thomas Vaccaro,
completing the second edition would have been considerably more arduous.
My colleagues in the Baking and Pastry Department supported my efforts, shared their
opinions and expertise, and abided the wake of this project for long enough to have earned
congressional commendations. In lieu of those, they have my unending gratitude.
The staff of the publishing department at The Culinary Institute of America had a great
dea l to do with the production of this volume, in particular Lisa Lahey, Maggie Wheeler,
Nathalie Fischer, Erin McDowell, and Shelly Malgee. This book would not be anything close to
what it is without their talents and hard work.
CIA students are a constant source of inspiration, enthusiasm, and creative energy, and
so many have contributed in various ways that I could not possibly mention them all. Sune
Naude, Karys Washburn, Adam Harvey, and Matt Plaza worked so many nights with me on
formula development as to become slightly vampiric. Kelly O’Neil, Samantha Ramirez, Bryan
Graham, and Susan Hemphill also played meaningful roles in formulation for the second
edition.
Many individuals and companies outside of The Culinary Institute of America also made
important contributions to bringing this volume to life. The stunning photography of Ben
Fink graces the pages of this book; working with Ben is always both a joy and a privilege.
For sharing their knowledge and enthusiasm, I thank Mel Warnecke of Warnecke Associates,
Mark Heim of Hershey’s, Thalia Hohenthal of Guittard Chocolates, Bob List and the artisans
of Hammond’s Candies, Anil Rohira of Albert Uster Imports, and so many others in this small
candy world who selflessly share for the betterment of all. For their help in providing equip-
ment for this project, I thank the Waring Company, Ohaus Scales, Jack Marshall of Pastry Chef
Central, and Tom Elsinghorst and Brian Donaghy of Tomric Plastics. And, as always, I thank
my wife, Kyra Greweling, for listening to countless hours of confectionery geek-speak during
the creation of this book and for supporting me throughout this and all of my endeavors.
vi
CHOCOLATE AND CONFECTIONS
INTRODUCTION
The history of American confections follows a route parallel to that of many other traditional
foods: born of artisans, adopted by regional producers, and captured by manufacturers.
With each step in this process, the products tend to lose a little bit of their identity, becom-
ing less unique, less diverse, more anonymous, and further removed from their artisan and
geographic roots. Up until the early twentieth century, artisan foods were made by skilled
craftspeople in small family-owned businesses in every town and village, with the trade handed
down from generation to generation or learned through apprenticeship. Bread bakers, brew-
ers, cheese makers, and, of course, confectioners produced relatively small quantities of
fresh, unique products for their customers, who were also their neighbors. This is the tradi-
tion of artisan confectionery. Improvements in automation and transportation led to the rise
of regional confectioners who prepared unique specialties in larger quantities with the aid
of machinery and who distributed their products throughout a larger area than local artisan
confectioners could supply. However, these regional confectioners still made candy that was
traditional to the location and distributed it within that area, thereby contributing to the food
culture of the region. Some examples of these products are pralines in the southern United
States, sponge candy in western New York State, fudge throughout the Midwest, taffy at the
seashore, buckeyes in Ohio, and maple candies in New England.
Further advances in automation, along with improved systems for distribution and the
natural progression of capitalism, led to the rise of a few corporate producers, who today
manufacture and distribute the vast majority of the candies consumed in America. Most of
their products were artisan confections that were altered so that the manufacturers could
produce thousands of pounds of them per hour for national or global distribution. Mass-
produced confections are made using ingredients designed to provide a minimum shelf life
of six months and to save the few cents that equate to profit when millions of units are pro-
duced. Due to their sheer size and economic advantage, these corporations have led to the
near demise not only of the local artisan confectioner and his or her unique products but also
of the regional confectioner. Although manufacturers are able to produce confections with
great uniformity and economy of scale, the artisan aspect of handmade confectionery using
ingredients of the highest quality has nearly been lost.
In recent years, however, a segment of the American market has grown weary of manufac-
tured food products that are more about shelf stability and inexpensive ingredients than quality,
flavor, and freshness. The revolution that has occurred in bread baking is a prime example of the
backlash against manufactured food and the return to traditional ingredients and techniques.
Similar revolutions are under way in brewing, cheese making, winemaking, and farming,
to name only a few areas of the American culinary landscape. Chocolate and candy making
stand today where bread baking stood twenty years ago: poised for a renaissance in status
and public awareness and ready for a revival in the use of traditional techniques to produce
world-class products.
Artisan confections will never replace mass-produced candies in the marketplace, nor
should they. Instead they will remain a niche market for those who are passionate about fresh-
ness, quality, and flavor. It is my hope that this book will fuel the artisan confectionery revolution
by helping people who share this passion to understand and create confections that truly pro-
vide a feast for all the senses: the sight of perfectly tempered chocolate or beautifully striped
handmade hard candies; the scent of chocolate, freshly roasted nuts, and caramel; the feel of
chocolate melting in the mouth; the sound of crisp toffee cracking; and, of course, the taste of
freshly made confections created with the best-quality natural ingredients.
Vive la revolution!
vii
INTRODUCTION
About the formulas
All of the formulas in this book are presented using three units of measure: metric, U.S., and
percentage of the whole, uncooked batch. I have chosen metric for the primary units of mea-
sure for several solid reasons: grams allow for great ease of use; there is no need for fractions
of ounces or conversion to and from pounds, as occurs when U.S. measurements are used.
Also, being a smaller unit of measure, grams have a greater level of inherent accuracy. Most
users of this book already work with digital scales that easily read either metric or U.S. mea-
surements, so new equipment is not required. Finally, the United States remains the only
country on the globe that has not embraced the simpler, more logical metric system; I believe
that the change is long overdue.
For those who prefer them, U.S. units of measure are provided along with the metric.
Regardless of the unit of measure chosen, the quality of the results from these formulas will
be the same.
Percentages are provided primarily for those wishing to greatly increase or decrease the
yields of the formulas and for those who want to make changes in the formulas in order to
slightly alter the results or to compensate for ingredient substitutions. I have opted to repre-
sent percentages of the total, uncooked batch. Remember that in confectionery the weight of
the uncooked ingredients is often vastly higher than the yield of the cooked batch, as a result
of the removal of water during cooking.
Classic flavor profiles dominate the formulas in this book. The formulas recognize global
influences and modern taste preferences but do not bow to fads, which are likely to be short-
lived. By using the information on formulation and methods in each chapter, users can suc-
cessfully create their own flavor profiles to meet the needs of their markets.
I have eschewed the use of nonfood additives in the formulas. Lecithin, sorbitol, glycerin,
and other additives are not uncommon ingredients in confectionery, and although they are
not intrinsically detrimental, I have formulated the products in this book without them. Even
the use of colors and manufactured flavors has been limited to confections such as hard
candy, where such additives are traditional and nearly essential.
The yields given for the formulas are likely to be appropriate for use in a restaurant, hotel,
catering operation, or small confectionery shop. However, the formulas can easily be scaled
up or down by using the percentages given, whether the desired outcome is a few dozen
pieces or dozens of pounds.
The dark chocolate used in the formulas is 64 percent cacao with 38 percent cocoa butter
content. The milk chocolate is 38 percent cacao, 24 percent cocoa butter, and 38 percent total
fat. The white chocolate is 30 percent cocoa butter and 35 percent total fat. The heavy cream
used is 40 percent butterfat. While it is not mandatory to follow precisely these specifications,
results may vary, and some formulas may require adjustment when vastly different ingredients
are used. Such adjustments can be made successfully by reading and understanding the dis-
cussions of ingredient functions in each chapter. The sugar-cooking temperatures given are for
sea level; adjustments will be required for formulas cooked at altitude.
About the theory
A long-standing tradition among craftspeople who have learned their trade through appren-
ticeship or trial and error is knowing exactly how to do a job, but not necessarily knowing ex-
actly why it is done as it is. Many extremely skilled workers fall into this category. The theory
presented in this book is an attempt to help confectioners understand more about how con-
fections work so that when conditions or ingredients change, they can adapt, and when the
viii
INTRODUCTION