Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose - Fragrance

323 Pages·2011·1.35 MB·English

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
The Rose
Glen O. Brechbill
FRAGRANCE BOOKS INC.
www.perfumerbook.com
New Jersey - USA
2011
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Glen O. Brechbill
“To my late father and beloved mother without
them non of this work would have
been possible”
II
ARRANTING FINE PERFUMECOMPOSITIONS- THEROSE©
This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in
any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case
of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed
book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©.
Designed by Glen O. Brechbill
Library of Congress
Brechbill, Glen O.
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose / Glen O. Brechbill
P. cm. 323 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science.
9. Creativity. I. Title.
Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187
Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill
All Rights Reserved
PRINTEDIN THEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICA
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose
About the Book
What can I say about the rose. Of all the ingredients available to a perfumer it is my favorite. Widely con-
sidered the most utilized aroma it can be found in most fine fragrances including functional household and per-
sonal care type products. Compositional books on the art of fragrance if one can be found are rare. Two that
appeared in the early ninetie’s were well constructed. However, the arrangements of visual elements or ingre-
dients pertaining to the creative art contained data that would not be pleasing to one’s nose.
Anyone familiar with an actual composition could tell in an instant that none of the formulas contained
within these books would work. The arrangements were terrible plus misleading. Why would one put togeth-
er a book containing misinformation you ask? The fragrance industry does not wish to teach the creative art to
anyone outside the hands of a few. In a nutshell a composition is nothing more then a harmonic blend of pleas-
ing materials in parts per thousand otherwise known as 100 percent that create a fragrance. In order to learn
what the materials actually mean, and how they work together, takes years. One must serve in an officially
sponsored apprenticeship to master this trade taking years. There are several fragrance schools including the
ISIPCA in France along with one’s at Givaudan, International Flavors & Fragrances plus Symrise.
Whether any of my fragrance compositions could actually be compounded let alone work is anyone’s guess.
I do know each display’s the richness of the art to a degree that one rarely sees. A perfume formula is a care-
fully guarded trade secret. A perfumer swears allegance to his employer to safeguard the company treasures.
What each artist creates is owned by the fragrance house, and is classified as a trade secret. As a member of a
secret society one also swears not to divulge any aspect of their craft to outsiders. Again, this is part of the rea-
son why there are so few books available on the aroma art.
Today the skill is being ruined by the natural perfumers who purchase a single book, and believe after read-
ing it that they are experts on the art plus have the gall to call themselves a nose. Stefen Arctander’s is a fine
one on the subject of essential oils. By itself, however, it doesn’t give one all the answers. I read over a hun-
dred fragrance books before creating my first one titled as follows “A Reference Book on Fragrance
Ingredients”. I am not an expert on this subject nor pretend to be. Here’s mine, and the obvious question is
where is theirs?
Many natural artists and I don’t mean all fail to take into account that many essential oil houses cut their
natural materials otherwise known as boqueting to make money. Although well-intentioned folks many pos-
sess little training nor knowledge. Most fail to understand the consequences of creating aromas with unknown
health consequences. Many create their own materials with homemade stills, and pass off their creations as 100
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Glen O. Brechbill
percent natural. No one knows what long-term exposure to any fragrance material will do to one’s body over
a long period of exposure.
An official nose today known as a Perfumer is also at a disadvantage. Due to the folks at ( IFRA ) the indus-
tries stooge, an artist today employs close to one hundred percent synthetic materials in his and her fine fra-
grances and personal care blends. Utilizing little or no essential oils fine fragrances made today are deemed
safer then one’s that were created a hundred years ago that utilized close to one hundred percent natural mate-
rials.
It is my opinion that sooner or later folks will have skin reactions to the synthetic blends. Again, no one
has any idea what long term exposure to synthetic materials based on petroleum will in the long term due to
one’s health, nor do the fragrance houses care. The fine art is being ruined by this Gestapo type agency indi-
rectly through the major five players to create a nightmarish creative atmosphere. In turn it is getting close to
impossible for a perfumer to incorporate natural materials or for that matter come up with something new. Most
of these folks who inhabit positions outside the art possess little or no knowledge of what they are doing. This
in itself is helping to ruin it.
Unfortunately many years ago fragrance houses were run by perfumers. Today, fragrance houses are in the
hands of sales, marketing, public relations, advertising, creative director’s who help create myths about what
fragrances are and aren’t. The untruths along with increasingly more and more launches are fueling the indus-
tries declining sales. Sadly the fine creative art is also in the decline. Not understanding it is part of the prob-
lem. The other side of the coin is the folks who love it, don’t know it and are envious of those who do which
again are the perfumers.
Do my fragrances that are in this book work you next want to know? My answer to that of course is who
knows. I do realize formulation books that you see today are for the most part misleading. Any one of my cre-
ations can be endlessly changed, and adapted with experimenting. Taking into the account the cost for many
of the materials I doubt whether any listed in this book could be made. However, that in a nutshell is the fine
art of fragrance. I personally believe my mini index is a unique perspective to the goods and services that are
available based on my main book. Again, the rose is my favorite aroma material.
It is my personal belief that within the not too distant future of thirty to fifty years of time the fine art of fra-
grance will have completely disappeared. High-speed computers plus automatic compounding machines will
replace it. Each fragrance house has millions of compositions in their Libraries. A single successful fragrance
can have tens of thousands of variations. This is part of the reason why there is nothing new today. An indi-
vidual scent belongs to a fragrance family. To be in that family one has to be related to another fragrance. If
one comes up with something different that I believe is not possible, a competitor will duplicate it with a gas-
chromatography computer within a week.
In today’s world there is nothing new except the endless hype showcasing something unique when in real-
ity there is nothing new except cheaper, and cheaper fragrances that contain little or no essential oils including
fewer aroma materials. This in a nut shell is why the fine art of fragrance is in danger of vanishing.
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose
A World of Fragrance’s - The Rose
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Glen O. Brechbill
International Directory by Country & House
Continent/Country/Fragrance House Continent/Country/Fragrance House
Manuscript # 1 ( A - H ) Fiveash Data Management
Fleurchem, Inc.
Manuscript # 2 ( I - Z ) Fleurin, Inc.
Flexitral, Inc.
North America Florachem Corporation
Florida Chemical Company, Inc.
Canada Florida Worldwide Citrus
Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc.
The Spice Trader
Good Scents Company
United States Gorlin & Company
Graham Chemical Corporation
Alfa Chem
American Society of Perfumers I.P. Callison & Sons
Aromatic International LLC Innospec Inc.
Artiste Flavor / Essence International Flavors & Fragrances
Astral Extracts
J & E Sozio, Inc.
Bedoukian Research, Inc. Joint American Ventures in China
Bell Flavors & Fragrances
Berje Inc. MelChem Distribution
Millennium Chemicals
Carrubba Inc.
Central States Chemical Marketing Natural Resourcing
Champon Vanilla Norwest Ingredients
Citrus & Allied
Cookson & Hunt International Co. Oliganic
Creative Fragrances Ltd.
Pental Manufacturing
DMH Ingredients Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils
Polarome International
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose
Prima Fleur Brazil
Rosetta Enterprises LLC Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda.
Sarcom Inc. J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda.
Science Lab
Sensient Technologies Corporation Petit Marie
Sigma Aldrich
Spectrum Chemicals Rai Ingredients
Sundial Fragrances & Flavors
Sunrose Aromatics Europe
Texarome Belgium
Treatt USA Inc.
Trisenx, Inc. Synaco Group
Uhe Company, Inc. Bulgaria
Ungerer & Company
Vesselino Trading Company
Vigon International, Inc.
Denmark
Walsh, John D., Company, Inc.
Wambesco Gmbh
Central America
France
Mexico
A.N.E.C.
Esencias y Materiales Lozmat Adrian Industries SAS
Albert Vielle SA
Tecnaal Group Aromatic Collection
Aromax
South America Axxence SARL
Argentina BFA Laboratories
Barosyl S.A.
Esarco Biolandes Parfumerie
Euma
Charabot & Company Inc.
Fritzsche SAICA Clos D’Aguzon
San Miguel Agici y F Diffusions Aromatiques
Dulcos Trading
Exaflor
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H.Reynaud & Fils Hungary
IPRA Fragrances Silvestris & Szilas Ltd.
Interchim
Italy
Laboratoire Monique Remy
Baller s.r.l.
Mane SA
Moraflor Produits Aromatiques Capua s.r.l.
Muller & Koster Citroflor di G.
PCAS Espira S.p.A
Payan Bertrand SA
Prodarom Farotti Essences srl
Prodasynth
Moelhausen S.P.A.
Rhodia Organics
Robertet SA Portugal
SIPAA. Ch. Berthier Kruetz Helmut
Sovimpex
Symarome Spain
Germany Bordas Destilaciones Chinchurreta
Basf Cami de Fontainilles
Dullberg Konzentra Gmbh Destilerias Munoz Galvez, s.a.
Eramex Aromatics Gmbh Lluche Essence
Frey & Lau Gmbh Ventos, Ernesto S.A.
Lothar-Streck Switzerland
Paul Kaders GmbH Essencia, Aetherische Oele AG
Sensient Essential Oils Gmbh Firmenich
Symrise GmbH & Co. KG
Givaudan Fragrance Corporation
Th. Gyer Gmbh & Co. KG
Puressence Wuresten Inc.
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Rose
The Netherlands Fruitarom Industries
Brighten Colorchem, B.V. Nardev
Flavodor Asia
PFW Aroma Chemicals China
United Kingdom China Aroma Chemical Co., Ltd.
China Perfumer
A & E Connock Ltd. Chinessence Ltd.
Augustus OIls. Ld.
HC Biochem
British Society of Perfumers Hangzhou Aroma Chemical Co.
Buckton Home Page Ltd.
Shanghai M & U International
De Monchy Aromatics, Inc.
Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical Co.
Earth Oil Plantations Ltd.
Hong Kong
FD Copeland & Sons Ltd.
Fine Chemical Trading Naradev
Furest Day Lawson
O’Laughlin Industries
Global Essence Ltd.
India
Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd.
Amen Organics
JC Buck Ltd. Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd.
Anupam Industries
Lionel Hitchen Ltd.
B.S. Industries
Quality Analysis Bansal Aroma
SRS Aromatics Ltd. FFC Aroma
Flowersynth
Venus Enterprises
GMPCT
Mediterranean Gyran Flavours
Israel Hermani Ex-Imp Corporation
Hindustan Mint & Agro Products
Agan Aroma & Fine Chemicals
Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd. Indian Spices
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Kanta House Turkey
Katyani Exorts
Krupa Scientific Oregano
Kuber Impex Ltd.
Australia
Narain Terpene & Allied Chemical
Australian Botanical Products
Organica Aromatics Pvt. Ltd.
Cosmark
P.P. Sheth & Co.
Petitgara Chemicals Perfume & Flavor Manufacturers
Premier Chemical Corporation Peter Jarvis Cosmetic Develop.
Privi Organics Ld.
W & W Australia Pty Ltd.
Raj Aromatics Aroma Corporation
Pacific Rim
SAT Group
Seema International Indonesia
Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt.
Shreeji Aroma Djasula Wangi
Som Santi House
Some Extracts Haldin
Tadimetry Aromatics Pvt Ltd. Indesso
Thakker Group
Singapore
Ultra International Limited
U.K. Aromatic & Chemicals Taytonn Ptd Ltd.
Korea Sri Lanka
Castrading EOAS International
M.X.D. Enterprise System Japan
Nepal Basf Japan Ltd.
Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Kao Corporation
Singapore Takasago International Corporation
Taytonn Pte Ltd. Zeon Corporation
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