Title Towards a conceptual model for the apparel industry in Thailand focused on domestic fashion

317 Pages·2015·33.37 MB·English

Title Towards a conceptual model for the apparel industry in Thailand focused
on domestic fashion origination
Type Thesis
URL http://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/5939/
Date 2004
Citation Cholachatpinyo, Anothai (2004) Towards a conceptual model for the
apparel industry in Thailand focused on domestic fashion origination. PhD
thesis, University of the Arts London.
Creators Cholachatpinyo, Anothai
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Towards a Conceptual Model
for the Apparel Industry in Thailand Focused
on Domestic Fashion Origination
Anothai Cholachatpinyo
A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment
of the Requirements of the University of the Arts London
for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy
August 2004
Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design
The University of the Arts London
Abstract
This thesis has several strands relating to the future prospects of the Thai fashion industry,
which has undergone recent instability in the context of the global fashion system. They
presuppose a reorientation and/or development of the domestic economy and culture of
consumption of Thailand to favOlX innovation, originality and personal identity.
The thesis will present an argument based upon the creation of conceptual models derived
in part from existing models and theories, from literature St.rVeys and empirical studies. A
new framework to conceptualise the fashion process in Thailand called, the Thai Fashion
Process Model is presented. Through the process of the comparative studies, the fashion
process in the West is set against that which exists in Thailand.
The Western fashion process modet integIales much previous research about the fashion
process, fills important gaps that the symbolic interactionist theory of fashion omits, and
makes a number of new predictions about the translation of social trends into specific
lifestyles and individual differences within the commodification process. The model
purposes two important fashion forces: the differentiating force and the socialising force.
These operate at different levefs (macro and micro) and through different fashion
practitioners. The empirical studies gathered data tor analysis through interview and
questionnaire surveys at the miao-leve/ in both the UK and Thailand within the context of
the conceptual framework. Additional data tor analysis was also gathered relative to the
macro-Ievel. The studies provide excellent support for the reconceptualisation and, in
particular, suggest that individual psychological factors might be given a new prominence
in the overall fashion process and the way in which new fashions emerge.
The new Thai Fashion Process Model presents a different direction in the fashion change
sequence, which implies a reorientation of the industry towards a high priority in domestic
fashion origination and imovation. The socio-cultural economic changes require a
refocusing towards individual or segmented consumers' motivation, needs, and desires as
opposed to the conformity that exists in contemporary Thai society in its domestic
consumption.
Acknowledgement
This thesis would not have been possible without the help and enthusiasm of all my family,
friends, colleagues and supervisors. I acknowledge with thanks my supervisory team who
always gave valuable advice and encouraged me throughout the process of this research,
including Prof. Maureen Crocker, Prof. Ben (C) Fletcher and in particular my director of
studies, Ian Padgett, spring of inspiration and Socratic pain. I thank all researchers whose
works are referred to in the Bibliography and whose works and theories inspired and
informed my thinking either directly or indirectJy and became shoulders upon which I stand.
I would like to thank all staffs at the Thai Students' Office in London and Bangkok. I would
also like to thank my colleagues at the Department of Textile Science, Kasetsart University
who I left to take up my responsibilities for the duratioo of my study. Many thanks for the
kind help of Arjam Chuleeporn Piumsomboon who explained to me the techniques
necessary for the fieldwork survey. I am indebted also to Dr. Arch Tait, my English proof-
reader, who was able to transform my broken English writing style into a reasonable
standard of academic prose. I especially want to thank the Bharapimol family who kindly
offered me a nice and warm place to stay at an affordable rate during the final stages of
the thesis when my scholarship period has expired. Pee Pu - Suwaporn Kiewkaew who
provided part-time work in Thai Sq. restaurant in London for me has also afforded the
same life saving opportunity to other Thai students studying in London. I also would like to
thank Khun Pomsak Dechklang, for his kindly help in solving hectic problems on my
personal computer.
My final thanks must off course go to my friends and family. To my two friends, Gooh and
Pong for their help in the presentation of my thesis. Also to my for-a-while fJatmate, Kijchot
Nuntanasirivikrom, who usually created leisure programs which were not only destined to
entertain our student life, but also contained of inspirational clues. There was no greater
gift that I could receive than the everyday greeting on the telephone from Khun Dam
augmented by his beloved Peter Arnold who always offered his kindness and
consideration. I shall thank my beloved three friends, Yuttana Niponboon, Noraphon
Senatham and Teera Yiengvisavakul, who made provision for my family in Thailand and
acted as couriers over the six years period of my residency in England. Finally, I am very
grateful to my family for their belief in me, their patience and hope in waiting. Many thanks
to my older sister for her help as co-ordinator of communications.
"
Dedication
This thesis is dedicated to my family
and all the Thai people who, with part of their taxes,
sponsored my study in the United Kingdom.
III
Contents
Abstract
Acknowledgement II
Dedication III
Content IV
Ust of Illustrations VIII
List of Figures
List of Tables
List of Plates
Chapt8r1 Introduction 1
1.1 Research Questions 1
1.2 organising the Research 6
1.2.1 In Search of the Answer 6
Chapter 2 Tenninology of Fashion 11
2.1 Existing Definitions 11
2.1.1 Fashion as a Style 12
2.1.2 Fashion as a Concept 12
2.1.3 Fashion as a Process 13
2.2 Main Points of ExistIng Definitions 13
2.3 Fashion & Clothing: the Distinction 15
2.4 ArrIving at a New Definition 17
2.5 Fashion: the Functions 17
2.5.1 Utilitarian Purpose 18
2.5.2 Aesthetic Purpose 19
2.5.3 Expressive Purpose 19
Chapter 3 Fashion Theories 21
3.1 Fashion & Social Communication 21
IV
3.2 Fashion & Social Phenomena 23
3.3 Fashion & Emergence 25
3.3.1 Capitalist Society and Class 25
3.3.2 The Birth of a New Fashion 25
3.3.3 Two Competitive Forces 27
3.3.4 The Key Agents of Fashion Emergence 28
3.4 Fashion Process 35
3.4.1 Fashion Adoption 35
3.4.2 Fashion Adoption Process 36
3.4.3 Fashion Innovation 37
3.4.4 Fashion Life Cydes 38
3.4.5 Fashion Adopters 41
3.4.6 Fashion Diffusion 42
3.4.7 Mass Diffusion 44
3.4.8 Symbolic Interaction 45
3.5 Fashion Leadership Theories 48
3.5.1 Upper Class Leadership Theory 48
3.5.2 Sul>Culturai leadership Theory 50
3.5.3 CoIective Selection Theory 52
3.5.4 Mass-Market Theory 53
3.6 Conclusion 55
Chapter. Fashion CommocItIcatIon and Retailing 57
4.1 Fashion Industries 57
4.1.1 Definition and Its Importance 57
58
4.1.3 Structure 59
4.2 Production and Trade 59
4.3 Fashion Retailng and Distribution 60
4.4 Fashion DesIgn In the UK 62
4.5 Fashion Marketing and Advertising 62
4.6 Summary and Condusion 63
ChapterS Initial Conceptual Model 65
5.1 Constructing the Conceptual Fashion Process Model 66
5.1.1 The Macro-Subjective Level 70
75
5.1.2 The Macro-Objective Level
5.1.3 The Mlcro-Objective Level 77
82
5.1.4 The Micro-Subjective Level
84
5.2 The Fashion Change-Agent Model
V
5.3 Holistic Perspective on the Fashion Process 85
5.4 Conclusion 85
Chapter 6 Empirical Studies 88
6.1 Introduction 88
6.1.1 Research Design 90
6.2 Hypothesis 1: Differentiating Force and Socialising Force 93
6.2.1 Hypothesis 1 93
6.3 Hypothesis 2: Decision-Making Process 95
6.3.1 Hypothesis 2 96
6.4 Hypothesis 3: New Fashion Life-Cycle Curve 101
6.4.1 Hypothesis 3 101
6.5 Hypothesis 4: Diffusion through the Collectivities 103
6.5.1 Hypothesis 4 103
8.8 Questionnaire Instrument 105
6.8.1 COmponent of the Questionnaire 105
8.8.2 Adopter CIassificaIIon Tool 108
8.7 Result and Analysis 108
8.7.1 Plot fieldwork: Methodology 108
8.7.2 Revised final SuNey: Results and Analysis 108
8.8 ConclusIon 118
Chapter 7 1be Fashion TransIIItion Process Model 120
7.1 The Gannent of Fashion 120
7.1.1 Fashion as a Fonn of Language 121
7.1.2 Three Forms of Fashion Language 125
7.1.3 Process of Translation .125
7.2 SOciological and Semiological Fashion Process 125
7.2.1 Constant Repetition Process versus Dynamic DiverSe Process 128
7.3 Incorporating Barthes' Idea into the COnceptual Model 129
7.3.1 SOciological Process 130
7.3.2 SernioIogicat Process 132
7.4 conclusion 143
Chapter a Fashion in the Context of Thailand 145
8.1 Scenario of the Subjective Realm 146
8.1.1 Pre-lndustrialised Era 148
8.1.2 Industrialised Era 160
8.1.3 The Aftennath or the Present Era 163
8.1.4 Change of Image through the Object 173
VI
8.1.5 Analysis: Characteristics of Thai Identity 184
8.2 Scenario of the Objective Realm 199
8.2.1 Pre-Industrialised Era 199
"8.2.2 Industrialised Era 200
8.2.3 The Present Era 205
8.2.4 Analysis: Characteristics of the Thai Objective Realm 213
Chapter 9 Model Comparison and Construction of ..1 hiFastiOn PIoceS9 Model 222
9.1 Comparison of the Micro Level 223
9.1.1 Empilical studies in Thailand: Methodology and Results 223
9.1.2 Comparison of the Fashion Adoption Models 226
9.1.3 Fonning the Model from the Surveys 227
9.1.4 Comparison with Rogers's Bell Curve 228
9.1.5 The True Innovator 228
9.1.6 Comparing the Bangkok Curve and the New London Curve 230
9.2 ComparisOn of the Macro Level 235
9.2.1 Class, Authority and the Reproduction of Self through Consumption 235
9.2.2 Production of the Fashion Context 242
9.3 Construction of the Conceptual Model of the Thai Fashion Process 246
9.3.1 ConstructIon of the ThaI Fashion Transformation ProceSS Model 246
9.4 strategies 253
9.4.1 The Subjective Realm 253
9.4.2 The Objective Realm 258
259
Chapter 10 Conclusion
10.1 Research Findings 260
10.1.1 The Fashion Transfonnation Process Model 260
10.1.2 Critical Review and Urritations of the Model 263
10.1.3 The Fashion Translation Process Model 268
269
10.1.4 The Thai Fashion Process Model
10.1.5 The Various Response Model 272
273
10.1.6 The Fashion Retail Model
10.1.7 The Degree Scale of SOCialising and Differentiating Forces 273
10.1.8 Patterns of the Decision-Making Process 274
278
10.2 Further Research
278
10.2.1 The Fashion Process Model
279
10.2.2 The Fashion Retail Model
280
10.2.3 The Thai Fashion Process Model
VII
Bibliography 281
Appendix I: Fashion Evol!Jtion and Social Changes 291
Appendix II: Targeted Age Chart 293
Appendix III: Fashionnaire 294
Appendix IV: Fashionnaire Results 298
Appendix V: Historical Chronology of Ratanakosin Period, Thailand 301
Appendix VI: Costume and Fashion Evolution in Thailand 305
VIII