Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering) (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering)

1135 Pages·2005·0.57 MB·English

by  Chiang C. Mei

THEORY AND APPLICATIONS
OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES
Part 1: Linear Aspects
ADVANCED SERIES ON OCEAN ENGINEERING
Series Editor-in-Chief
Philip L-F Liu (Cornell University)
Vol. 9 Offshore Structure Modeling
by Subrata K. Chakrabarti (Chicago Bridge & Iron Technical
Services Co., USA)
Vol. 10 Water Waves Generated by Underwater Explosion
by Bernard Le Méhauté and Shen Wang (Univ. Miami)
Vol. 11 Ocean Surface Waves; Their Physics and Prediction
by Stanislaw R Massel (Australian Inst. of Marine Sci)
Vol. 12 Hydrodynamics Around Cylindrical Structures
by B Mutlu Sumer and Jørgen Fredsøe (Tech. Univ. of Denmark)
Vol. 13 Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms
Part I — Linear Wave Propagation
by Maarten W Dingemans (Delft Hydraulics)
Part II — Non-linear Wave Propagation
by Maarten W Dingemans (Delft Hydraulics)
Vol. 14 Coastal Stabilization
by Richard Silvester and John R C Hsu (The Univ. of Western Australia)
Vol. 15 Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures (2nd Edition)
by Yoshimi Goda (Yokohama National University)
Vol. 16 Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management
by J William Kamphuis (Queen’s Univ.)
Vol. 17 The Mechanics of Scour in the Marine Environment
by B Mutlu Sumer and Jørgen Fredsøe (Tech. Univ. of Denmark)
Vol. 18 Beach Nourishment: Theory and Practice
by Robert G. Dean (Univ. Florida)
Vol. 19 Saving America’s Beaches: The Causes of and Solutions to Beach Erosion
by Scott L. Douglass (Univ. South Alabama)
Vol. 20 The Theory and Practice of Hydrodynamics and Vibration
by Subrata K. Chakrabarti (Offshore Structure Analysis, Inc., Illinois, USA)
Vol. 21 Waves and Wave Forces on Coastal and Ocean Structures
by Robert T. Hudspeth (Oregon State Univ., USA)
Vol. 22 The Dynamics of Marine Craft: Maneuvering and Seakeeping
by Edward M. Lewandowski (Computer Sciences Corporation, USA)
Vol. 23 Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves
Part 1: Linear Aspects
Part 2: Nonlinear Aspects
by Chiang C. Mei (Massachusetts Inst. of Technology, USA),
Michael Stiassnie (Technion–Israel Inst. of Technology, Israel) and
Dick K. P. Yue (Massachusetts Inst. of Technology, USA)
Vol. 24 Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics
by Ib A. Svendsen (Univ. of Delaware, USA)
Adv Series on Ocean Engineering.pmd 1 6/22/2005, 2:08 PM
Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering — Volume 23
THEORY AND APPLICATIONS
OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES
Part 1: Linear Aspects
Chiang C. Mei
Ford Professor of Engineering
Massachusetts Institute of Technology, USA
Michael Stiassnie
David Hacohen and Hillel Dan Professor of Civil Engineering
Technion–Israel Institute of Technology, Israel
Dick K.-P. Yue
Professor of Mechanical and Ocean Engineering
Massachusetts Institute of Technology, USA
WeWorld Scientific
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British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
THEORY AND APPLICATIONS OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES
Part 1: Linear Aspects
Copyright © 2005 by World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.
All rights reserved. This book, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form or by any means,
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ISBN 981-238-893-1 — Set ISBN 981-238-894-X (pbk)— Set
ISBN 981-256-156-0 — Part 1 ISBN 981-256-157-9 (pbk) — Part 1
ISBN 981-256-158-7 — Part 2 ISBN 981-256-159-5 (pbk) — Part 2
Printed in Singapore.
June21,2005 16:57 TheoryandApplications ofOceanSurfaceWaves bk04-002
To: Caroline Mei, Hadassa Stiassnie
and Eva Yue
v
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June21,2005 16:57 TheoryandApplications ofOceanSurfaceWaves bk04-002
Preface to the Expanded Edition
ThisisPartOneoftheexpandededitionofApplied Dynamics of Ocean
Surface Waves by CCM first published twenty two years ago by Wiley-
Interscience. A corrected version was later published by World Scientific
without essential changes. During the past two decades, many theoreti-
cal advances have been made by researchers throughout the world. Great
strides have been made in analytical and numerical treatments for accu-
rate predictions as well as physical understanding. In this new edition, the
authors have added considerable new materials, hence the division to two
separate parts.
PartOneisrestrictedtothelinearaspects. Whilenearlyallthematieri-
als in the first edition are kept, many new exercises are added. A major
change is the addition of Chapter 7 on the multiple scattering by many
scattererson the seabed. Introductory aspects of Braggresonance by peri-
odic bars are first discussed. Important to coastal geomorphology, a com-
plete understanding of longshore bars requires quantitative understanding
ofboththecauseandtheeffect;itturnsoutthatwavesandbarsaffecteach
otherincomplicatedways. Theformationandevolutionofsandbarsunder
waves is, however, a very slow process and involves the highly empirical
science ofsediment transport;we only discuss the linearizedeffects of rigid
barsonthe waveclimate. Overamuchlargerscaleofthe continentalshelf,
bathymetric variations can be very irregular. Therefore we also present a
new theory of the effects of scattering by random depth fluctuations. It is
shownthattheaccumulationofincoherentscatteringoveranextendedarea
resultsinenergyremovalfromtheaveragedmotionwhichiscoherent. This
physics is related to the phenomenon of Anderson localization in quantum
physics.
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June21,2005 16:57 TheoryandApplications ofOceanSurfaceWaves bk04-002
viii Preface to the Expanded Edition
In Chapter 8 on the dynamics of floating bodies, we have included a
sectiononthetrappedmodesofthemobilegatesdesignedforVenicelagoon,
as a current application in coastal engineering.
The science of water waves has always been enriched by the use of
mathematicaltools. Inorderthat a readerwith only some familiarity with
advanced calculus can make effective use of this book, we have continued
the style of the previous edition by shunning the phrase “it can be shown
that...”. Often the mathematical steps of derivation are given in consid-
erable detail. More advanced tools such as the techniques of asymptotic
analysis are explained in the text. To highlight our objectives of bridging
theory and applications, the title of this book has been changed.
Chiang C. Mei, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA
Michael Stiassnie, Haifa, Israel
Dick K.-P. Yue, Cambridge, Massachusetts,USA
June21,2005 16:57 TheoryandApplications ofOceanSurfaceWaves bk04-002
Preface to the First Edition
A substantial growth of knowledge in the dynamics of ocean surface
waves has been witnessed over the past 20 years. While many advances
have been stimulated by purely scientific inquiry in geophysics, the pace
of progress has also been quickened by the increase in large engineering
projects both offshore and along the coast. A major construction project
now demands not only careful estimates of wave conditions near the site
but also reliable predictions of the effects on and of the construction itself.
Withaviewtobringingtogetherscientificandengineeringaspectsofocean
waves, educational and research programs have naturally been established
in a number of universities and industries.
Thisbookistheoutgrowthofmylecturenotesforatwo-semestercourse
taught at M.I.T. since 1974 to graduate students in civil and ocean engi-
neering,withoccasionalparticipantsfromphysicaloceanography. Theaim
ofthebookistopresentselectedtheoreticaltopicsonocean-wavedynamics,
includingbasicprinciplesandapplicationsincoastalandoffshoreengineer-
ing,allfromthedeterministicpointofview. Thebulkofthematerialdeals
with the linearized theory which has been well developed in the research
literature. The inviscid linearized theory is covered in Chapters One to
Five and again in Eight. Frictional effects caused directly or indirectly by
viscosity are treated in Chapters Six, Nine, and Ten. A special effect of
breaking waves on beaches is examined in Chapter Eleven. Chapters Ten
and Eleven focus on the secondary effects of nonlinearity. The cases where
nonlinearity is of primary importance are the subjects of Chapters Twelve
and Thirteen, for shallow and deep waters, respectively. The last chapter
(Fourteen) is on wave-induced stresses in a porous but deformable seabed,
which is a problem vital to offshore engineering. In the construction of a
gravityplatform, the costofthe foundationalone canbe ashigh as40%of
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