Table Of ContentEYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ITALY
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ITALY
CONTENTS
HOW TO USE THIS
GUIDE 6
PROJECT EDITOR Fiona Wild
ART EDITORS Vanessa Courtier, Annette Jacobs
EDITORS Francesca Machiavelli, Sophie Martin,
Helen Townsend, Nicky Tyrrell
DESIGNERS Jo Doran, Anthea Forlee,
Paul Jackson, Marisa Renzullo
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS
Ros Belford, Susie Boulton, Christopher Catling,
Sam Cole, Paul Duncan, Olivia Ercoli, Andrew Gumbel,
Tim Jepson, Ferdie McDonald, Jane Shaw
MAPS
Lovell Johns Ltd, Dorling Kindersley Cartography
PHOTOGRAPHER David by Bernini, Rome
John Heseltine
ILLUSTRATORS
INTRODUCING
Stephen Conlin, Donati Giudici Associati srl, Stephen Gyapay,
Roger Hutchins, Maltings Partnership, Simon Roulstone, ITALY
Paul Weston, John Woodcock
Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore)
Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China DISCOVERING ITALY 10
First American Edition, 1996
11 12 13 14 10 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 PUTTING ITALY
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, ON THE MAP 14
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 1997 (twice), 1999, 2000,
2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 A PORTRAIT
Copyright 1996, 2011 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London OF ITALY 20
A Penguin Company
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT THE HISTORY
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN
OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY OF ITALY 42
ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT ITALY THROUGH
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
THE YEAR 66
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISSN 1542–1554 NORTHEAST ITALY
ISBN 978-0-75666-938-6
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with American usage; ie INTRODUCING
the “first floor” is the floor at ground level.
Front cover main image: Abbey of Montecorona, Umbertide, Umbria NORTHEAST ITALY 74
VENICE 84
VENICE STREET
FINDER 126
The information in this THE VENETO
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually. AND FRIULI 138
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging TRENTINO-
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The ALTO ADIGE 166
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this NORTHWEST ITALY
book will be a suitable source of travel information.
We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, INTRODUCING
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. NORTHWEST ITALY 176
Fertile wine-growing region around Panzano in Chianti, Tuscany
LOMBARDY 186
VALLE D’AOSTA
AND PIEDMONT 210
LIGURIA 230
CENTRAL ITALY
INTRODUCING
CENTRAL ITALY 244 Gondolas weaving through the maze of canals in Venice
AVENTINE AND SICILY 522
EMILIA-ROMAGNA 254
LATERAN 430
SARDINIA 544
FLORENCE 270
FARTHER AFIELD 438
FLORENCE STREET TRAVELERS’
FINDER 307 SHOPPING IN ROME 443 NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN
TUSCANY 314 WHERE TO STAY 554
ROME 445
WHERE TO EAT 604
ROME STREET
FINDER 447 SHOPPING IN ITALY 654
LAZIO 460 ENTERTAINMENT IN
ITALY 656
SOUTHERN ITALY
SURVIVAL GUIDE
INTRODUCING
SOUTHERN ITALY 472
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION 662
A traditional small shop in NAPLES AND
Volterra, Tuscany
CAMPANIA 482
TRAVEL
INFORMATION 672
UMBRIA 348 ABRUZZO, MOLISE,
AND PUGLIA 500
GENERAL INDEX 684
LE MARCHE 364
BASILICATA AND
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ROME AND LAZIO CALABRIA 514
715
INTRODUCING ROME
PHRASE BOOK 719
AND LAZIO 374
THE ANCIENT
CENTER 382
AROUND
PIAZZA NAVONA 396
NORTHEAST ROME 406
THE VATICAN AND
TRASTEVERE 414
Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi, started in 1228
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
his guide helps you get the most describe important sights with the help
from your visit to Italy, providing of maps and images. Each section is
Texpert recommendations as well introduced with features on regional
as detailed practical information. architecture and food specialities.
Introducing Italy maps the whole Travellers’ Needs gives details of hotels
country and sets it in its historical and and restaurants and the Survival Guide
cultural context. The 15 regional chap- contains practical information on every-
ters, plus Rome, Florence, and Venice, thing from transport to personal safety.
ROME
T
T
ia
tbpwfststnhoir elhghe oereeenh ai atenc cstut scdeashi hymge dce a ahneohit tesprvaotitp ernsteisin iedl e tcligrends ogrne a ad. ouehcdalson sfam rt iow w cenitRAinrerbasnfdio rto setb owephem.rcre arme rhEif,deaet diahaMvma . s lphcietaiAnaiahsatn onelt kps lt ndr e.io, tn dhfg e &',/&2S
ACMH' -(I.h..0.0in' uG-.s"$.u#8c##,#t'$2s1i8Hro 2ee#c#1 2.$r
$unhTi$3$(%$"#c.mte,S.'1 2 /1 $-21sPS.7,0 5s $.%1+.(1A/(i.i 4,at2a-102."$ Te.$*z"n1'(' ";-s! z 2-.030%;,d A "$7a$2/a0."1-
%&.$5 /s*Gn /"52("+0G(-+-(&;2#ad( #/-.(;(."2*l"1 .$2L. .$"$l2B.57+e#2&A(/"20,#u$, r+.$+(1(i+N2i,.(#(el2'2$-",d3.2sC' $'i/2 1n +E$(02+&1 g--0$$.s3-
#1.($# 3-
# %620$2/'#(5.0,($(42+.0 0+ .23 00,-')3 +1,5-$"10312 .(
-,%1$.
RC2,0oa 3'pm$0&,($i132tu .o1l $0ul-02-i-3"
3sn*3$+(2# 1(e"$a("'0*% $n0W $d1+o R20lfe'*,1 mw$.$ 2/ui"1tsh$( .0+(0/ 3+.$,$
0(%.-2(-/&.2#G(1+'.&-0 2(03'.E.1$$10,+$"2$3+.T1 . -0 +'P 2. 1-T2+ 4M$3("3P. 2$1$"- I#(1T-$!(1!$$1 NT$.(/.(3$F1'#-8+(0#+-3P(.5-$2G+12.8$2-.,.,'.3% ( %1'"$+521+,1T02$
(2.''"&2$,3+-'H$(($3'15.% , $$-,$02*, "0 2-.E,-'8/%2$0$;-"72'-($0;4$8.'R#,"1"2(4$50$-$#$ 28'4(5$%E&37$2((120&0$ -'$ -."(-1.!2%02.$04 ' $5+3' .1.0"-0.+(.-$ -31-1+ -$31($%(#20,, +.-1(82.2*#-+-/-$+'*($+2.,0(( $'.3-2$1.#4+0 .3$2.(&+ $+'$+%3.*(0 $2#$#7$1% l
ts1yahAohirogacl elvuh oa aF peS Actstaoas tae r gortdeaeo efd e earrsiot an e t htmnrM h seFnary au elaialc upmnlsrtaip otimdestbny i hf eo gsebactohrn aretp wb oeonrt.snows e nt.RTr dcwe noh e .tmh ae,ho e netenrhr de e
S
t
chaigeteh cgthso araypt: t aeC rGh’slu asrnicgchheet sli ,s btsy 0V myiaerwtdes rosf the Co2lo52s05s0eum rising behind the Forum 1$%"*1&0$./3"J5SB"DTNPTJNP KEYTMSTohtreuetreriCosttabspitnyiatfStoitolrimneneattH:ioilnl pp384–5" pages 447–57 .
7
9
<8*9<,7:;
79*2,9
T*
S"T"
CF89'<"4')*'49+<.)3*4&-74*:4o9.re>)eh27:.&+7&+-&*7-42&4.&=1.&a-42**r.72&n.141.v:98>8e'18*4 4(39'132)*8j3,-5&.2ht7< <3..-*ea5 2(&(099B&2r917*31843+*757Mo.*8284+.*a-&.)r*n)4-.5-&;7(-a(.)t4)3u&)3l71-.'27&*7*e *1749a&*s*&41*25c&830*19+")'s*"8-'.3&l&:37i*'oi7-134s7978*54l72138n7-:.7'
! 7
!
$("5
$
&48#-3")&$
"
.*06&1/&3"/*"3"&)3
#3)63$0"0!/"/*5%7&%&5&)/-)*"
,3#855&$-)&&6*6*04&&4'1#/55,"&,&03#0&3)-"%&"*0:(*34&"$-5&
7&"$5853(0-);)
85*/3"0$&4&"46046"*6&5)*$/
*3-85-)6/0$3454*,&"0/&5$*6&*5&*3&)."&43-/4**-/350/*$%/50*3.%*"47")%6"465-
&!0'($6
5*6&5//"&&$)70-4)5#)
0'#($&3/))/%&&*&/:!*5'&)%/&&%*453)(
4%0$
")
$.7
4&""5 '*&0*0)'/&&3"4/3'3*3"$"4%530'56.4$030/%)&.&/3"-!&
.*3&",.2.%+3&/&-%$6"0!&3*:/&6/0/ &/)"
.-46./55$&5/&5.'-50"&)$))$4)4"*0
5"45")&&1&655&
0"0/)4
4/)"043)/4
%'5"4:68*5
&')&5 "/%55"4$)*/5"6/5:%3)
315"$4&*0*5&7&0$-0%*"(0&4*3*34%30*3'*.0*#&".56"5"5)%53-)"3/5=5*04*)-0/&-&44
754$0&*"8"
4)"*&/&
9')3')34&#*4"*51%&&&1/0453
#
*0
3')1%$&*44"-&8)7'*53&*&&$"")40&/-4&*55$:3"($)4
)455*".4*51)3)06*"
0-4&05/&*%&"&/&-"4-5)5$"/:(5)0/4)!4$4$*(4
/
/5""3%65"&6*/)&"0.55
/" ("&3-)1*5*&*5$'"!5$(''*9466*5"&*0**034*6-#5"*.0&6$"$"5&/53-4-'/3-)*3"&3"5*3/.&
4&&"*4"8*"&*/"0&-/1
"9
-/3'4
/7"%.*"/%645"050&*54*#6."54*10//)"3".-(5"
&4
03(-:)5""-#/&-1%#&")-&5013*7"5/0':0-%)&4-"6/-&0
7&&/*&-"
%<"&5$34"5"&04&)/5/'&53)*/<$3")/09$-%#*&*%&:0:0%$3$&%50"069.7)3**'-5065*&"*50'*&5&"6'4)4/)-1/&)0
.3-/03 %5341"*":&*":3"5/'*$*-'4&/
*--/$($/358
0($&""-3)*"0&(5*5*&5$&:3&$)/-"4.35"04
'*'
(*8*/"&41&64-3"5/&-%:"5&0&6*55&"$/*/4*3)5"&)"
"$$/5.)3,$&"4
)/%:&5 1hioaistvon odewdf TreIf nhsectchrthersre aio l tbaracodeaner udtncedhc tatshteuci r eoharv roinaipesf se,si te ,dsoa ahernco ivtshdweot lodriworneapyhgey ai d.ot n IaAioteadnoTnranipt avAcedv atihared irLesV t eYiR socetfdt ehrfi nhn ogAawiagimncpovR ehtten oo,eiER ca rwIbo1A.htl ea m5n TM elh syBhean a ae,rY sh pen F am.a adulAsos mo s,prb Reseb leatpnEe ce-crAenes d,
" " Each area of Italy can be
D
Tehtea i
taTRoecatd3bl eoafoh uanta ni1hfnre2utlwhley- cepspetger nedts urecA t rynvi n ieDmhldy onrt oDsialoisarcui,i ecslfe rtnoae btm mt l patimhtlte m amo enPhfa iCltadoeFzldnosz)- cobSrefoO iA ad44#GLr#.+2.0-370oRSrA02edt.#E& '/ e +'*# +/km/2#'T*E#'IA#)#l7d )o#i%60#'T#&0#+).(+i'G' IVM/ 4/)(l0&%2i/c.iT1-N'M23* +o5#tl#-)/Ih:/:'+eg.5e'30*-#G3i/) 47Hm2eTo/-0/0O+o8243#sN3
+ 8;#'07s/3.6',)#i3r./(5+In'4e-AS'i4)TmE#204-N#/
-/O3#St#4'Na20*rVp+.0'
3n&4. O+0e+L+#S#64oBAaAl:A34-3rG32'/L#r04+ n67iA&+4N+tnmCs./ *4m'"e4%+#/2/d#AZ #30n$)D-#'-'+a'AO%3) )a0+I#i8#2i3-S54m
3T#p (v2n '0#O2!#-T4i+i-l/.01R2' A3%0n #*L'# f/#5"8/3sEt( #'G4-% +'A+5 $OB#yh/2'6&'+03PN-4(D3i'-3&d3#a+'[2m60ne+3/ aOE/'2 ")3Up3"74+0%B% #'oL NGlet#4+-+#3Lb,$V'42eS'5+.4O/'12+/EN:+mBp/4oB(*ra/-i3/'+$L4"#3/2(/m'4#4t'Nl&'lED+o0-*'l35sA'A'1%/$4/4a'e43o F,'QinP7c/#s/n+2'4+y3&'#MNr#'g*O3e2.$P20h(+/-B #4'7)/52'5eo0/25'/Co4O)&('%5'C(0B '4B2v0f#/243bF213&2p 'RC./ 0.#M7/2434E7taMM#A0-0e+*Md*BP+h(&t$1/J.+%(c0P$N/p10+Uf2 /34D1(0ke6'%5/P$*0 *5/W4B0ID#e& E T#r520f'B-#B+4TDi#.'#O%'i-lJ#2#-4&eF.agTS/ (-L %-32#P(8#*4.sUf'P3
Ao%pmD0+0-+'+-+&02#+#+
+-F/#0/P22*#'$#'/#e#4od0$2-)B0/2oM#p/.+2 t+4#W9o2B'13&223#2[B1/')06%324l3o3F.19Q)e3# B/#T.#0#35#.'#454i'+U##U1
s*PS012-43p/%2'%aS042&#&F3+/B #524+B#3+ 0#r%2ar5#+4M/+22/E(4t/6i4r4%&MO/1-#'-tn#4/'+'/0Bu3+v6F-#f6#/2+ 040P/
&-:%+'1AN2r#+'.3#7-M##'#+0 4*%42-+5Ao4-)#,(gmA/t/*%#9N04r%$/5'N4/4 -tPrn5-P'4-'5'.6#"i2B3#1B*O5('#+gOMe6+ 2M8Gh-&SA/#/2/N'Fe%(2I/0P' eF.aTS-#T4#N0n0MO$5o5TE'8 &7'$Efs-2tB2"46&3J#O-Lo&i&#*L'8P1Mn#7#LA'+2BtMFvÈB/3&DaO3'2M'a40Uo2iR$SB*Bm'A%U'3sUlDnvMmNGB -8$0N2'I34#ION6AnTO.P83DPAli/$O#TR'0JtD ' E$.0tBhFBlA2c&D(IBiMOePBDyZAUsNO mZN0BDgotoImlOSBCFQi"IFna/a #FiPIOhs gA1AMoihSMB3.oNBPnNFeiGSn&BUwiCrsfUIUOtMmAiJ" BFcO$LleOecvJw -BDSnMn aiOTSPn&t 'lJ#a OetA tJae0 gLPnie3wemLI1O.ZJ$t7CoZp"#hc" JPOnFJrilaTVMekSJM-(3MBShnMB r hTN3rFaH&iA G3nPBtSsJGF3P B*hGNOtS(SGUeh.AJFeBJ $lt&TegEAJ1 ei/Bt0!eRBr MSO"O sJMr5b[Jg'tDyS [oa0sJB BJaH# #OtPAysB"$PO . aJ O(BNt- :)JS3F OAi.S&rOFDaF3BE'cRS*uBAB""WsN5*'aBNM)FO$JSBSJFBPENSMEFMJFJOT/TFJB#BOSP )U1F34UBS#4BW$BPMBJ$,SNBO0US$&FIBVNZS'BKG$TZJSB"BOBMDTh0-(B>!/E 6V6P/
FM( ;CM A6w&RUU*6/aBT#o'aOr-35;BYJaI(6=65(60U-ie(5 6n4oOe(OwAt#9(r,1(lD(ÄFb*i O=+;),MSMt(;9r0< lgO4 srPR;B,35'nJ;M2Ai:e/h9a:6o0 (ues6m0BF3 ,w6CJ905i:L(Fo:;:f,ai7iATuloc O3tp,4U0=o(n0EiVo:5F-,:R06Ti( 5jr9+SoM5h(N+.(t)oenOn;45o5(a rnPB;LaFB;:e,O9/noAO!,6)A4;*e:(r.er/BA5.ar,.0zQO(),UN/lah R;3d /6 LA3,ms9Ol20’i(r Tar3A0U/ siI8,FP.!Ti<e)is5B(6l(0o,a 0o6Cva(Eg(u9e5BHS0/9ea0;0t5
Sn54,0<[Urea+BO:a0ma,5/4;h3tn[;#0el#6J9ny.5B([t *,0r9 d:D:(Ld a+(J+n/wl,0;sA u.A4,-0AirdB<BaO35-:0ar,3I,/&e3)(2 7S(D9( P6ro=< a6P)S g(aUdTt$0t2ciSPr>/;,*J;904OE:h,).ash5( ,yS<n5+O0e<;,"5k/B9de<LMH,ma;S0*1d 6LeS:9/,si:3P:56iMI5;F03: ,5aJH.,Mif3n20n ;UntT5C;MJ o,1=3i5N,i B"U9(a+B+,U+AC (cl( -,5t/-y/m.Uc 6S2b57$a*,H:ueU9:59-R9i9 .,9VJ02"aFa.;#o+BJ 6usA,:BJ Jn+n(:6F(r,eD97+[TU S+",nd;6;t62as(0;/SsM7;9P,P4t;DUPEs9/t,[4S0H5a/
