Inventing the pizzeria : a history of pizza making in Naples

185 Pages·2015·3.58 MB·English

by  Mattozzi

INVENTING THE PIZZERIA
to my father
who dedicated his whole life to work,
and to the many Neapolitan pizzaioli of yesterday and today who are the true protagonists
of this story.
INVENTING
THE PIZZERIA
A History of Pizza Making
in Naples
By Antonio Mattozzi
Edited and translated by Zachary Nowak
Illustrations edited by Donatella Mattozzi
Bloomsbury Academic
An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
CONTENTS
L
IST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
L
IST OF TABLES
A
CKNOWLEDGMENTS
F
OREWORD
E ’ I
DITOR S NTRODUCTION
A ’ P
UTHOR S REFACE
1 The origins of pizza and the pizzeria
Why Naples?
“Pizza”: The origins and meanings of the word
The history of pizza through dictionaries and written accounts
After the unification of Italy
2 Censuses and statistics: Pizzaioli in their social context
The first documents
Pizzerias in Naples in 1807
The Expansion of the 1800s
Pizzaioli in statistics and censuses
The social status of the pizzaiolo
Pizza hawkers and “oggi a otto”
Pizzaiole
3 Licenses and the law
Ordinances and police regulations
Skirmishes between shopkeepers and police
Licenses, inspections, and rules
4 Inside the pizzeria and behind the counter
Pizzaioli between cops and owners
Real estate income
Fires
Descriptions of pizzerias
Pizzerias and trattorias
Restaurateurs and trattorias
Water and pizzas: Wells and aqueducts
5 Uncertainty and continuity in hard times
Structural difficulties
Heredity of the profession and intrafamily continuity
Individual persistence
Giving up
6 The distribution of pizzerias across the city
Political and urban shake-ups
The Bourbon period
After unification
Everyday work in the pizzeria
7 Historic pizzerias
The oldest pizzerias
Port’Alba and Largo della Carità
Sant’Anna di Palazzo
Other nineteenth-century pizzerias
8 A family affair
Problems with documentation
The Lombardis: A voyage between Naples and New York
The mystery of the Pace family: 1800s or 1900s?
The saga of the Mattozzis
Conclusion: Yesterday’s pizza, today’s pizza
From antiquity to the eighteenth century
Genuine Neapolitan pizza
Ingredients and preparation
The twentieth century in Naples …
… and beyond
S —N 1800 ( )
OURCES EAPOLITAN PIZZERIAS IN THE S BOURBON PERIOD
S —N 1860 1901
OURCES EAPOLITAN PIZZERIAS FROM TO
S —N 1880, 1881, 1886, 1888,
OURCES EAPOLITAN PIZZERIAS CITED IN COMMERCIAL GUIDES FROM
1900
AND
N
OTES
B
IBLIOGRAPHY
I
NDEX
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
I Una Storia Napoletana: Pizzeria e Pizzaiuoli tra Sette e Ottocento (A Neapolitan
History: Pizzerias and Pizzaioli from the Eighteenth through the Nineteenth
Century)
II “Fabbricante di Franferlicchi” (Maker of Franferlicchi) by Achille Vianelli
III 1807 Naples Pizzeria Distribution Map: Part 1
IV 1861 Naples Pizzeria Distribution Map: Part 2
V 1890 Naples Pizzeria Distribution Map: Part 3
1.1 “Il Pizzajuolo” by Filippo Palizzi
1.2 “Il Pizzajuolo” by Luigi Buonocore
2.1 Detail from the Map of the San Ferdinando neighborhood. Naples, 1804
2.2 “Classes of the Population, 1828” manuscript with coloration, decorated with gold
2.3 Detail: 72 Pizzajuoli
2.4 “Classes of the Population, 1829” manuscript with coloration, with a series of arches
that divide the statistical tables
2.5 Detail: 740 Pizzajuoli
2.6 “Venditore di Ostriche e Frutti di Mare” (Seller of Oysters and Seafood) by Saverio
Della Gatta
2.7 Raffaele Viviani in “Toledo di notte” (Toledo by Night)
2.8 “Pizzajuolo” by Carl Jacob Lindstrom
4.1 Pizzeria Gennaro Mattozzi, Largo Carità. Naples 1940
5.1 Table of Permitted Games. Naples, 1886
6.1 Receipt for the payment of the municipal tax. Naples, 1878
6.2 “Lo Pizzajuolo de Palazzo.” Traditional song with words by Luigi Stellato and
music by Francesco Finamore
7.1 Pizzeria Gennaro Mattozzi, Largo Carità. Naples 1940
7.2 Pizzeria Gorizia. Naples, c. 1920
8.1 Pizzeria Luigi Lombardi. Naples, 1947
8.2 Luigi Mattozzi, portrait by Lionello Balestrieri
8.3 Pizzeria Mattozzi, Via Depretis
9.1 An old-fashioned agliara from the collection of “La Casa della Pizza”(The House of
Pizza)
9.2 Pizzeria Da Michele. Naples, c. 1930
9.3 Bill Clinton in the Pizzeria Di Matteo. Naples, 1994
9.4 Menu from Pizzeria Da Attilio. Naples, 1944
9.5 Esterina Sorbillo. Naples, c. 1970
9.6 Salvatore Salvo. Naples, c. 1950
9.7 Pizzeria Pepe, Caiazzo (near Caserta), c. 1950
LIST OF TABLES
2.1 Pizzaioli with a shop in 1807
6.1 Pizzerie in Naples, listed by neighborhood