Frommer's Iceland

387 Pages·2008·10.3 MB·English

by  Evan Spring, Zoë Preston

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Iceland
1st Edition
by Evan Spring & Zoë Preston
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_178416-ffirst.qxp 5/29/08 9:45 AM Page i
01_178416-ffirst.qxp 5/29/08 9:45 AM Page i
Iceland
1st Edition
by Evan Spring & Zoë Preston
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_178416-ffirst.qxp 5/29/08 9:45 AM Page ii
Published by:
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ISBN: 978-0-470-17841-6
Editor: Alexia Travaglini
Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston
Cartographer: Andrew Murphy
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Near Akureyri: Go∏afoss, or “Waterfall of the Gods”
Back cover photo: South of Reykjavík: Man standing by the Blue Lagoon
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5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps vi
1 The Best of Iceland 1
1 The Best Natural Wonders . . . . . . . . .1 5 Iceland’s Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . .7
2 The Best Towns & Villages . . . . . . . . .4 6 The Best Accommodations
3 The Best Big-Name Hikes . . . . . . . . . .5 for Local Flavor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
4 The Best Hikes Off 7 The Best Icelandic Restaurants . . . . . .9
the Beaten Track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 8 The Best of Iceland Online . . . . . . . .10
2 Planning Your Trip to Iceland 12
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 12 Staying Connected . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
2 Visitor Information & Maps . . . . . . . .13 Frommers.com: The Complete
3 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 13 General-Interest Tours &
Packages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
14 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
The Big Round-Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
15 Getting Around Iceland . . . . . . . . . .37
5 Iceland in the Off Season . . . . . . . . .19
16 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .43
6 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
The Case for Hostels . . . . . . . . . . . .44
7 Money & Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Packing Suggestions for Iceland . . . .47
8 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
17 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
9 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
18 Recommended Books . . . . . . . . . . . .50
10 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .27
Fast Facts: Iceland . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
11 Sustainable Tourism/Ecotourism . . . .31
3 Active Iceland 56
1 Aerial Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 11 Hunting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
2 Biking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 12 Jeep Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
3 Bird-Watching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 13 Kayaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67
4 Caving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 14 Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67
5 Dog Sledding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 15 Pools & Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
6 Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 16 Rafting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
7 Glacier Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 17 Rock Climbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
8 Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 18 Scuba Diving & Snorkeling . . . . . . . .69
9 Hiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 19 Skiing & Ski Touring . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
10 Horseback Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 20 Whale-Watching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
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iv CONTENTS
4 Suggested Iceland Itineraries 72
1 Iceland in 4 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 4 Iceland in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
2 Around the Ring Road . . . . . . . . . . .74 5 Hiking Iceland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
3 Iceland in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
5 Reykjavík 83
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 6 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 7 Pools,Spas,Outdoor Activities &
3 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119
Fast Facts: Reykjavík . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Reykjavík Thermal Pool Guide . . . . .121
4 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
5 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 9 Reykjavík Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . . .127
Waiter, There’s a Fly in My Pickled
Ram Testicles... . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
6 Near Reykjavík 133
1 Hafnarfjör∏ur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 4 Golden Circle:Pingvellir,Geysir
& Gullfoss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
Notes on Entering
the Countryside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 Why Does Pingvellir Church Have
Two Altarpieces? . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144
“Hidden People” Lesson #1:
Origins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136 5 The Blue Lagoon (Bláa Lóni∏) . . . . .150
2 Mosfellsbær . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136 6 Keflavík . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152
Halldór Kiljan Laxness The U.S. Pull-Out . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
(1902–1998) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 7 Reykjanes Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . .156
3 Esja,Hvalfjör∏ur & Akranes . . . . . . .138 8 Hverager∏i,Selfoss & Nearby . . . . .160
A Day Hike in Hengill . . . . . . . . . . .162
7 West Iceland 166
1 Borgarnes,Reykholt & Farther 3 Stykkishólmur & Brei∏afjör∏ur . . . .184
Inland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166
4 Westfjords:The Southwest
2 Snæfellsnes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172 Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
Horseback Riding on the Cliff-Scaling Icelanders
Southern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 to the Rescue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192
“Hidden People” Lesson #2: 5 Central Westfjords . . . . . . . . . . . . .195
Elves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177
6 Ísafjör∏ur & Ísafjar∏ardjúp . . . . . . .198
Whale-Watching & Horseback
7 The Strandir Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
Riding on the North Coast . . . . . . .180
8 Hornstrandir Nature Reserve . . . . . .210
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CONTENTS v
8 North Iceland 214
1 Húnaflói . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214 5 M;vatn & Krafla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250
The Cowboy of Skagaströnd . . . . . .220 6 Húsavík & Nearby . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259
2 Skagafjör∏ur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221 Was Iceland’s First Settler
Why Build a House with Turf? . . . .222 Not a Viking? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261
3 Akureyri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230 The Saga of Icelandic Whaling . . . .262
Fast Facts: Akureyri . . . . . . . . . . . .233 7 Jökulsárgljúfur National Park . . . . .266
4 Near Akureyri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244 8 The Northeast Corner . . . . . . . . . . .271
9 South Iceland 277
1 Westman Islands The Fimmvör∏uháls Trek . . . . . . . .300
(Vestmannaeyjar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277
6 Skógar,Vík & M;rdalsjökull . . . . . . .301
The Great Puffling Rescue . . . . . . .283
“Hidden People” Lesson #3:
2 Pjórsárdalur & Hekla . . . . . . . . . . .286 Troll Tales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .304
Ascending Hekla . . . . . . . . . . . . . .289 Katla: The Next Big One? . . . . . . . .305
3 Landmannalaugar,Fjallabak & 7 Kirkjubæjarklaustur &
Surroundings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .289 Laki Craters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308
The Laugavegurinn . . . . . . . . . . . .292 8 Vatnajökull,Skei∏arársandur &
4 Hella,Hvolsvöllur & Markarfljót Skaftafell National Park . . . . . . . . .311
Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .293 The Glacier Mystique . . . . . . . . . . .312
Njáls Saga & Its Sites . . . . . . . . . . .295 9 Between Skaftafell & Höfn . . . . . . .315
5 Pórsmörk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298
10 East Iceland 319
1 Höfn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .319 Kárahnjúkar: Iceland’s Most
2 Lónsöræfi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .324 Divisive Buzzword . . . . . . . . . . . . .338
3 Lower Eastfjords:Djúpivogur 7 Sey∏isfjör∏ur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .340
to Fáskrú∏sfjör∏ur . . . . . . . . . . . . .326 A Day Hike in Sey∏isfjör∏ur . . . . . .343
4 Middle Eastfjords:Rey∏arfjör∏ur, 8 Borgarfjör∏ur Eystri . . . . . . . . . . . .345
Eskifjör∏ur & Neskaupsta∏ur . . . . .331 “Hidden People” Lesson #4:
5 Egilssta∏ir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .332 Elves & Modern Iceland . . . . . . . . .348
6 Inland From Egilssta∏ir:Lögurinn, 9 Fljótsdalshéra∏Valley . . . . . . . . . . .350
Snæfell & Kárahnjúkar . . . . . . . . . .336 10 Egilssta∏ir to M;vatn . . . . . . . . . . .351
11 The Interior 352
1 Kjölur Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352 3 Askja,Kverkfjöll & Eastern
The Kjölurvegur Trek . . . . . . . . . . .355 Interior Routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .359
2 Sprengisandur Route . . . . . . . . . . .356
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vi CONTENTS
Icelandic Pronunciation & Useful Vocabulary 364
1 Pronunciation Guide . . . . . . . . . . . .364 2 Basic Vocabulary & Phrases . . . . . .365
Icelanders: On a First-Name 3 Glossary of Geographical
Basis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .365 Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .367
Index 368
List of Maps
Iceland 2 Westfjords 189
Iceland in 4 Days 73 Ísafjör∏ur 199
Around the Ring Road 75 North Iceland 215
Iceland in 1 Week 78 Akureyri 231
Iceland in 2 Weeks 81 M;vatn 251
Hiking Iceland 82 Húsavik 260
Where to Stay & Dine in Jökulsárgljúfur National Park 267
Reykjavík 90 South Iceland 279
What to See & Do in Reykjavík 108 Heimaey Island 281
Near Reykjavík 135 East Iceland 321
Pingvellir 143 Höfn 323
Keflavík 153 Egilssta∏ir 333
West Iceland 167 Sey∏isfjör∏ur 341
Snæfellsnes 173 The Interior 353
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Iceland, 1st Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
About the Authors
Evan Springhas traveled to fifty countries or so, but only Iceland has merited four return trips
and made him consider repatriation. His freelance writing is widely published.
Zoë Prestonhas traveled widely, and finds Iceland’s landscape peerless in its composition of
beauty and bizarro. She studied comparative literature and art at New York University.
Acknowledgments
The authors would like to thank the following for their generous help: Einar Gustavsson at the
Iceland Tourist Board; Jón Trausti Sigur∏arsson at the Grapevine; “Nightlife Friend” Jón Kári
Hilmarsson; Siggi Hall; Magnea Gu∏mundsdóttir at the Blue Lagoon; Gylfi Ólafsson at West
Tours; Helgi M. Arngrímsson in Borgarfjör∏ur Eystri; Lisa Tharpe; our wonderful editor Alexia
Travaglini; our cartographer Andrew “the Falcon” Murphy; and the following tourist informa-
tion center staff: Jón Páll Hreinsson in Ísafjör∏ur, Erna in Varmahlí∏, Cosima Zewe and Inga
Björk in Akureyri, Kristin Jóhannsdóttir in the Westman Islands, and Sigurdís Gu∏jónsdóttir in
Hverager∏i. Evan would also like to thank his mother Marjorie Johnson for her help with Njáls
Saga, and his father Michael Spring for taking him to Iceland for the first time.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Scandinavia
Frommer’s London Day by Day