Table Of Contentgeneration T
108 ways to transform a T-shirt
megan nicolay
workman publishing / new york
■ to everyone who finds treasure in trash ■
Copyright © 2006 by Megan Nicolay
Illustrations copyright © 2006 by Megan Nicolay
Photography copyright © 2006 Andrew McLeod
Cover photograph by Michael Fusco
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced—
mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including
photocopying—without written permission of the publisher.
Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son Limited.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Nicolay, Megan
Generation T: 108 ways to transform a t-shirt / by Megan Nicolay.
p. cm.
ISBN-13: 978-0-7611-3785-6; ISBN-10: 0-7611-3785-8 (alk. paper)
1. Clothing and dress—Remaking. 2. Clothing and dress—
Alteration 3. T-shirts. I. Title.
TT550.N54 2005
646.4'04—dc22 2005042677
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Printed in the United States of America
First printing: March 2006
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
acknowledgments
here are so many people who helped give this year, and for simply “getting it” when it was just an
book life. First, a big rock ’n’ roll shout-out idea. Whether it took hour-long phone calls from
Tto everyone who donated T-shirts. I would hundreds of miles away, a dash across the street, or a
never have been able to undertake this without their rendezvous in the park, thanks to Cristina Betances,
help: Eric Brown, Kevin Cunningham, Erica Dagley, Chloe Godwin, Becca Hanson, Elia Herman, Jeannette
Beth and Chris Doty, Meghan Dove, Andy Eisenberg, Lee, Andra Olenik, Sara Rowbottom, and Emily
Micah Hales, Alex Heir at deathattack.com, Tisola Weinstein for their wit and wisdom in helping me
Logan, Planet Aid, Suzanne Rafer, Marcia Reynolds give names and personality to the projects.
at Wilkesboro Elementary School, Cory Schreier, To all my Tee Party people who showed up one
Robyn Schwartz, Nina Shen, Sarah Stacke, Kayte Terry, April weekend to help finish making every project
Al Vindito, Catherine Wong, and Lissa Ziegler. Second, in the book (and then some), I am so grateful. Lori
a huge and humble thank-you to my roommates, who Barrett, Kim Cherubin, Emily DePrang, Sara High,
graciously put up with (for far too many months) an Eunice Liu, Leda Marritz, Kim Newman, Lily Rothman,
apartment decor that consisted of mountains of the Beth Svinarich, Jessica Swain, Mary Heath Swanson,
acquired T-shirts. A sincere thanks to Alison Fassnacht and Lily Tilton, I’ll party with y’all any day of the
and Karisa Horsley for temporary use of their T-shirt week. And my A-listers who really showed up to
quilt, to Suzy Becker for her generosity with drawing party (we’re talkin’ weeks at a time!), the esteemed
materials and veteran advice, and to all my ladies Lady Diana Schoenburn, Madame Michelle Bylenok,
with the Department of Craft for their enthusiasm my scissor sisters Sophie and Ariana, and my dear
for all things handmade. mom—each managing, in those weeks, the cutting
To my dear brainstorming brigade who faithfully and stitching equivalent of spinning gold out of straw.
attended late-night Tee-for-Two Parties, helping me An eternal thank you to my family: my parents,
get the word out and the tone right. Foremost, Rebecca Franz and Susan, for always allowing me (and pushing
Schiff (who, despite labeling herself among the non- me) to express myself in any and every medium I could
crafty, can slash a mean T-shirt), for the perfect title, get my hands on, and my brother Franz and my sisters
for keeping me (and the book) breathing in the past Sophie and Ariana for inspiring me always with their
vi generation T
music, drawing, dance, and stories. Thank you to Leora Kahn and Aaron Clendening for the organization;
Luke Janka for being so punk rock inside, for finding in stylist Ellen Silverstein for her expertise; lensman
me a good charity to dispense his virtually unmatched Andrew McLeod and his henchmen Henders Haggerty
T-shirt donations, for rooting through garbage bags and John Langford; my lovely models, Erin Grega, Jorden
on Broadw ay sidewalks for supplies, and for knowing Haley (birduvprey.com), Rashida Harris, Beth Hatem,
that the fastest way to this lady’s heart was with a seam Briana Masterson, Dré Mazzenga, Elizabeth Wong, and
ripper. the delightful gentlemen from FDNY’s Ladder 6; and
Thank you to the countless, anonymous T-shirt the hair and makeup gals, Amy Lin and Melissa Crist:
DIYers I tracked down on the street, to the musicians thank you for helping it all come together right. And
who put on the shows that attract so many rebel fashion- I am so grateful also to the swell lot of people who have
istas, and to the store people who stock those clothing tweaked, cheer-led, retrieved lost computer files, and
racks that help give me the impulse to do it myself. spread contagious enthusiasm along the way: Steve
Thank you to Peter Workman and all of the Andrews, Patrick Borelli, Anthony Cacioppo, Jarrod
Workman crew who pitched in to make this a creative Dyer, Nick Caruso, Michael Fusco, Dietrich Gehring,
reality. To Barbara Balch for her wonderful design work; Joe Goldschein, Ellice Goldstein, Frank Greally, Paul
Lynn Strong for her passion for detail; Anne Cherry for Hanson, Joelle Herr, Kim Hicks, Marta Jaremko,
her humor and care with words; Doug Wolff for keeping Wayne Kirn, Mari Kraske, Anne Lamb, Kathy Maloy,
us on track; Katherine Camargo for helping us cross the Justin Nisbet, Saundra Pearson, Barbara Peragine,
finish line; my publicist, Sarah O’Leary, for her charm- Kristina Peterson, Helen Rosner, David Schiller,
ing and reassuring efficiency; the unflappable Kristy Tod Seelie, Kim Small, Leslie Stem, Janet Vicario,
Ramsammy in photo research for her dedication and Carolan Workman, and Katie Workman.
positive energy; Beth Hatem, who has all the poise and Lastly, for trusting me and giving me my best
versatility of a superhero (I’m still trying to come up challenge yet, thank you to my editor, Ruth Sullivan,
with something she can’t do!); and editor in chief who, when I brought her my idea and told her,
Suzie Bolotin for her everlasting and radiant patience. “I could so write that book,” suggested, “Well, maybe
Thank you also to the photo team—what an undertaking! you should. . . .” Thank you, thank you, thank you.
contents
introduction x chapter 2: tee time 24
the brooklyn tee party: a revolution begins 13 projects that involve customizing,
cutting, clipping, tying, and pinning—
as much deconstruction as you can do
chapter 1: tee off 2
and still call it a T-shirt.
The materials, the basic stitches, and
1 scoop, there it is 26
sewing techniques you’ll need to make
2 slash ’n’ sash 28
all 108 projects in the book.
3 brokenhearted 30
■ finding inspiration 3
4 fringe benefits 32
■ gathering supplies 3
5 pleasantly punk 34
■ the anatomy of a t-shirt 7
6 ruffle and tumble 36
■ mastering the basics:
7 comfort corset 38
measurements, pinning,
8 it’s a cinch 40
threading the needle 10
9 mix ’n’ match 42
■ the stitches: running stitch,
10 shoulder slash 44
backstitch, whipstitch, zigzag
11 pin-up 45
stitch, cross-stitch, boxed cross-
12 halftime 46
stitch, finishing a stitch 12
13 ode to the mullet 48
■ adding style: drawstrings,
gathers, ruching, appliqué 17
■ coloring outside the lines: chapter 3: par-tee on 50
adding embellishment 19 The tank top—22 more projects that are
■ dyeing, batiking, printing, less shirt, more style.
bleaching 20 14 classic punk 52
■ zen and the art of t-shirt 15 shoulder chic 54
deconstruction 23 16 outer lace 56
17 lace age 58
Top: 15 shoulder chic, page 54 18 ties to die for 60
Skirt: 51 snip, crackle, pop!, page 133
viii generation T
19 fermez la ruche 62 46 cover girl 118
20 it’s my party and i’ll tie if i want to 64 47 t-bird 120
21 safety first 66 48 twisted sister 122
22 diamondback 68 49 teeny bikini 124
23 a beautiful day in the ’hood 70
24 put me in, coach 72
25 it’s a string thing 74 chapter 5: skir-tee girls 128
26 sew easy 76 23 projects that take the T-shirt downtown—
27 heavy meshinery 78 and we’re not talking about the financial
28 that’s a wrap 80 district in New York City.
29 six-pack 82 50 snips ahoy 130
30 greek goddess 84 51 snip, crackle, pop! 133
31 queen of braids 86 52 sidewinder 136
32 all strung out 88 53 double-crosser 138
33 tying game 90 54 pocket rock it 140
34 punk’d 92 55 next of pin 142
35 strip search 94 56 row, row, row your bows
(gently down the seam) 144
57 knot too shabby 146
chapter 4: flir-tee girls 96 58 skirt flirt 148
14 tube tops (and halters, too!)—even less 59 triple-layer cake 151
shirt, even more style. 60 petal pusher 154
36 boob tube 98 61 flare thee well 156
37 bodice snipper 100 62 mud flap 159
38 ready-made 102 63 diamonds in the rough 162
39 bow me over 104 64 road trip 164
40 natural sass 106 65 material girl 166
41 scarf ace 108 66 alphabet city 168
42 rollover 110 67 bohemian wrapsody 170
43 bandeau, james bandeau 112 68 wrapper keeper 172
44 knotty by nature 114
Top: 37 bodice snipper, page 100
45 halt right there 116 Skirt: 67 bohemian wrapsody, page 170
generation T ix
69 cinch city 174
chapter 7: t-wrecks 224
70 your ass is grass 176
After the T-shirt deconstruction and
71 tying up loose ends 178
reconstruction, here are 19 ways to
72 flapper frenzy 181
“get scrappy” with the leftovers.
89 flower power (blossom) 226
90 nip it in the bud
chapter 6: the t-zone 184
(rosebud ring) 228
From leg warmers to hats, handbags to
91 ice t (ring) 229
ponchos, checkbook covers to throw pillows,
92 banned for life (headband) 230 80 a tee in
16 projects that are perfect accents for the
93 net profits (hairnet) 232 the ’pod,
body and the home. page 200
94 i’m with the band (wristband) 234
73 go-go gauntlets 186
95 my ears are ringing (earrings) 236
74 knee huggers (leg warmers) 188
96 downward spiral (braided rug) 238
75 the braided bunch (braided belt) 190
97 shag me, baby (shag rug) 240
76 punk poncho 192
98 big hair bands (hair elastics) 242
77 scarf it up (scarf) 194
99 the bowed and the beautiful (hair ribbons) 242
78 fit to be tied (hat) 196
100 brace yourself (bracelet) 242
79 check this (checkbook cover) 198
101 lace station (shoelaces) 243
80 a tee in the ’pod (iPod cozy) 200
102 knit wit (yarn) 243
81 i’m the real shady (eyeglasses case) 202
103 the it doll (rag doll) 244
82 bag lady (handbag) 204
104 expand-o-pants 246
83 backpacking the heat (satchel backpack) 206
105 pocket it 246
84 rock the tote (tote bag) 210
106 patch it 247
85 is this seat taken? (seat cushion) 213
107 flare affair 247
86 sweet dreams are made of tees (pillowcase) 216
87 cute roll-up (bolster pillow) 218
88 patchwork punk (blanket) 220
the grand finale
108 tying the knot (the t-shirt wedding dress) 248
x generation T
the brooklyn tee party:
a revolution begins
y friends often tease me about my DIY spending a lot of money, either. And yet I love fashion,
obsession. Whenever I see something on one of the most high-priced hobbies out there. So how,
Ma store rack I absolutely love, I’ll run my you may ask, do I indulge my desire for fashion-for-
hands over the item, admire the craftsmanship, and ward designs? Simple: I do it myself.
imagine the outfit it will complete. Then, upon seeing More than saving money, I love making things.
the price tag, I’ll release the garment from my fingers I like to be able to take a step back from an outfit I’ve
with a sneer of incredulity—“Forty dollars?! I could doctored and feel the proud satisfaction that comes from
so make that.” knowing, “Hey, I made that.” It’s an even better feeling
What can I say? I’m cheap. (Though I prefer than having your artwork on a wall (or refrigerator!)—
“thrifty,” “bargain-hunter,” or “penny-wise.”) I don’t like you get to wear it.
spending a lot of money, and I don’t like other people The T-shirt has always been romanticized as
a blank canvas. With its rich history of messaging
The Tee Squad: taking tee (from commercial logos to school and team allegiances
fashion to the streets
to social and political expression), it is especially appro-
priate to DIY. I started early. When I was in sixth grade,
my four best friends and I staged a protest against the
Gulf War. We used permanent markers to decorate old
Hanes T-shirts with peace signs and slogans lifted from
our parents’ generation (“bread not bombs” and “make
love, not war”) and assembled during recess, marching
past the foursquare courts and seesaws. Quite the little
radicals. Twelve years later, I found myself marching
down Broadway in New York (with a considerably
larger crowd), rallying for peace in Iraq, wearing a
T-shirt emblazoned with my new political agenda,
reflecting a new message of hope.
generation T xi
We all have memories like these—and we more than
likely have a T-shirt in our dresser to commemorate every
one (the state basketball championship, the rock concert
at Coney Island, the family reunion in Las Vegas . . .). But
the tee does more than make us feel nostalgic. As univer-
sal as jeans, T-shirts have proven themselves in the world
of fashion with their unparalleled comfort, versatility,
and longevity. We sleep in them, play sports in them,
party in them, rock out in them. Paired with jeans, a skirt,
or those tight leather pants, the tee is a classic—it will
never go out of style. It’s James Dean, Marlon Brando,
Bruce Springsteen. It’s Sid Vicious. It’s Christy Turlington,
Drew Barrymore, Angelina Jolie. It’s Bart Simpson. It’s
Debbie Harry, Joan Jett, Chrissie Hynde. Now it’s yours—
to reinvent.
I’ve been refashioning T-shirts for more than half
my life. For years it’s been a way to express myself—my
sentiments, my style—on a small budget. These days I
A Tee Grows in Brooklyn:
refashion with scissors. Think about it, what other crafty The author and her sister Sophie make
“Heavy Meshinery.”
trend lets you prick, rip, cut, and slash? It’s an amazing
release of aggression. (Especially if the old T-shirt you’re
tackling belongs to an ex . . . hey, easy with the scissors.) You are a generation of hip, resourceful, creative
But this type of refashioning isn’t new. Girls and guys DIY warriors: Bored by the traditional T-shirt, you
have been taking scissors to their tees since Jennifer want something with personalized pizzazz. You want
Beals cut the necks out of her shirts in Flashdance or the to “waste not, want not.” You like clothes but don’t
two Coreys readied for school in Dream a Little Dream. want to be retail clones or slaves to commercial logos
There are still groups of punk kids and art stu- or fashion mags. Descendants of the punk movement,
dents who cut and slash their way to self-made fashion, you still know the appeal of a well-placed safety pin.
but the DIY style has gone mainstream, only without So gather up those countless old T-shirts won
the actual DIY. Boutiques and department stores, both at sporting events, collected at credit card sign-ups,
high end and low, are selling clothes with the rough- promotional giveaways, or the random thrift store
edged, unfinished, I-made-it-myself look. And that’s (even when they didn’t quite fit), and forget about
where you come in, putting the “You” back into Do-It- saving them for a special occasion (that, by the way,
Yourself. is never going to happen). I know you’re sentimentally
